CB360 Cafe

Remove the spring plate, put an engine bolt in the hole and use that to push pin out.
Usually the pin is seized to the pedal so the pedal moves back until it hits swing arm.
I hope you get lucky with that
It's easier to take swing arm out to see what your doing
 
crazypj: Thanks, I'll let you know how that goes.

Update: Well, started taking the engine apart and found some bad news. Looks like I'll be in the market for some new parts... Aye... I'm not sure what all I'm going to have to replace. Is there anything else I should do since I'm doing all of this? Is there a big risk of metal shavings being down in the engine with this level of damage? I'm all ears if someone has a good plan of action for me. Thanks!

This being the first time I've ever looked into an engine, does this sound right from what you guys can see? Also, heard a rumor that if I found these parts from say a '74 they might not work because something was changed by '76 (my year). Can anyone verify this?

- cylinder head cover
- camshaft
- cylinder head
- gasket kit
- piston rings (and hone)

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Ouch... doesn't look too good in there, man.

The rocker cover is toast. That center journal looks way too worn. The rocker arms in the last pic look done for as well. You might be able to get them refurbished. I'm not sure of a place that does it, but you can call around or maybe someone else knows somebody who knows somebody?

The other set of rocker arms look like they could be usable, but if you're getting two fixed up, you might as well do four.

There's also the cam... It doesn't look great, but it could be serviceable. My main concern would be the center of it where it contacts that especially worn journal. If it's too loose then it will wear even faster, ruining your rocker cover and/or head in short time.

Also.. get that cam out and get some pics of the head. With that much damage to the rocker cover I suspect your head might be scrap as well.
 
Sonreir: Thanks for looking at this for me. Yeah it's bad. Had you heard anything about there being changes to these parts from 74-76? I found a guy on CL that will sell me all the parts I believe I need for $100 plus shipping. Seem reasonable?

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$100 sounds pretty good if all the parts are in good condition.

The changes you need to keep an eye out for are as follows:
* Slipper and tensioner should be curved out away from the rubber sliders and not in toward them
* All four rocker arm shafts should be one piece, earlier recalled versions were two piece with a nut that came off of the shaft
 
Sonreir: Thanks, I'm still waiting to hear back about all the parts I need. Saw a pic of the cylinder head cover (which looks great), but I want pics of all of them before sending $...

Update: Took the cylinder head and cylinder off. I've never looked into an engine before, so I don't know what looks good or bad and I don't have digital calipers to measure anything. Maybe will get some this weekend. The left piston (side of the engine that looked cooked) looks to have some wear on the sides and the rings are compressed and flush with the body of the piston. The right piston's rings are loose... Also the cylinder walls have some scoring on them, but I don't know if this is remedied with honing or will need to be bored?

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Right cylinder
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And the valves...
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Oh ho hooooooo.....

The good news is... Your 360 will be closer to 360cc's than most people's on the forum when it's all said and done. That piston is looking a little haggard too.

There's a great shop up in Lewisville that will take care of you.
http://www.ntxmachine.com/
 
I would bet on them needed an hone at the very least. A good rule of thumb is to clean the inside of the cylinders out with a microfiber cloth and some WD-40 and then run your fingernail across the scarring. If you can feel it, you're going to want to get it bored over. It doesn't look too bad and I would think that +.25 over should clean it up. Get a machinist to tell you for sure though and make sure you bring the specs and service limits to the guy when you get the work done.

+.25 pistons for the 360 come up on eBay pretty often but you can sometimes stick with stock pistons and +.25 rings. That wouldn't be my first choice though. And make sure you spec out the pistons before making that decision. It's possible they've worn down a bit as well.
 
cafematty: Thanks for the link. (Also, where did you get the wife's engine parts, rings, etc?) I called NTX and they said their machines won't work for an engine this small...

He did however suggest a one-man shop called Northside Cycle at 1406 N Corinth St in Corinth, TX (940) 321-8473. So I called and spoke to Elmer, who was really nice. He charges $80/hole for boring and $30/hole for honing and is definitely up for the job. I'm going to take my parts up there because he can measure everything and check clearances and let me know how everything looks. If I can avoid the bore job and just hone and get new rings, I'm all for that...

I'm waiting for my replacement top end as well. I figured I'd drive up to Corinth (40 minutes) when I have everything that I'll be using... Save me trips and give Elmer everything to look at at once.

Thanks guys for the help and suggestions. Stay tuned. :)
 
Wow, I would say that you are elbow deep in the build now! That's awesome, now you know you will be able to trust the machine once its built.

You say you found metal shavings? Where? I opened the clutch cover, and the oil screen at the bottom of was covered in a fine mess of metal shavings, and I cannot tell where they are coming from. Since my motor runs, I was not wanting to do a rebuild, but from your pics, I am now tempted to take the top cover off and have a look.

Thanks,
Ashton
 
vtwin650: Yeah I'm definitely getting a crash course education. But that's really what I was wanting. It's hard because on one hand, the weather is perfect and I want to ride, but on the other, I'm really enjoying this and embracing all of the challenges. I feel like as soon as I finish this I'll want something else to work on... Seems to be the way with most people on here. :)

Back to the shavings, yeah so far I did find some within the cylinder head, laying right next to mounting bolt nuts.

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I feel like since I'm this far into this motor, why not go ahead and go all the way down ya know? Make sure everything else looks ok since so far it's pretty jacked...
 
That's weird they said they couldn't help you... That's where Kate's was done.... But she just had a hone and valve job. Maybe they aren't setup for boring...?

Got most of our parts from here... http://www.siriusconinc.com/
They are in CanaDUH, but they we're fairly quick. The only thing they didn't have was an oil seal kit or piston rings.. We got those off of eBay.
 
vtwin650 said:
Wow, I would say that you are elbow deep in the build now! That's awesome, now you know you will be able to trust the machine once its built.

You say you found metal shavings? Where? I opened the clutch cover, and the oil screen at the bottom of was covered in a fine mess of metal shavings, and I cannot tell where they are coming from. Since my motor runs, I was not wanting to do a rebuild, but from your pics, I am now tempted to take the top cover off and have a look.

Thanks,
Ashton

Take a magnet to the the shavings. If it sticks it part of the drive train. If not, then it's part of the case.

I had a similar issue with mine, but it turned out to be bits of silver paint from the cases. NO idea how that got in there...
 
That looks like a stripped thread, pulled out by overtightening bolt.
Check and see if it has a Heli-coil or needs one
 
Hey all, it's been awhile since I've posted anything. I blame it on the cold weather... I'm not sure where I left off, so I'll just start writing.

Over the winter I've acquired a replacement cylinder (& pistons), cylinder head, cam, and cover as well as the chain slipper/tensioner. So basically 1/2 of the engine. I also finally looked at the oil system and I'm pretty sure that the cause of the lack of oil to the top end was because the filter was completely clogged and caked. I'm waiting on the special socket to remove it completely in the mail. Everything else looked pretty good. I'm not sure if the replacement cylinder I got really needed to be deglazed, but I figured since it was all apart that I would go ahead and do that. Also have new rings in the mail. Otherwise, I'm just waiting on a chance to get the top end soda blasted. The jugs came from a diff engine then the head and cover, so i just wanted them to kinda match up as far as oxidation. I wanted the raw aluminum look but I'll just see how they look after blasting. If they still look off I'll just paint them.

Also had to get a new starter since when I opened up the one I had, just a bunch of pieces fell out... Anyway... That's the updates so far... I'm going to start posting more again, so stay tuned! Thanks!

I promise to start posting more eye candy pictures... Haha, I just post ugliness... :-\

I wish I would've taken a photo before I started picking all of the packed crud out of here...
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Here's just some of the initial bits from the oil filter... I can say that this little centrifugal invention did it's job really well.
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New (to me) cylinders deglazed
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What I found when I opened up my starter to inspect the brushes...
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crud in filter is a bit more than 'normal' but won't actually cause any problems.
The oil just gets fed in, centrifuges bits out then exits into center hole and main gallery behind cylinders
The crank isn't drilled for oil feed, oil goes to main bearings then gets centrifuged out to big ends along one side of flywheel (you can see hole at top of pic you posted)
 
Hey PJ, long time. :) I wasn't sure if it was that clogged, would it stop feeding the oil to the top end or would it just suck at filtering the oil but still supply it? Either way, it just makes me believe that maintenance was never performed on this bike, so if the filter was that neglected, the PO probably neglected to keep it's oil level maintained...
 
That's a high probability, 360's were surprisingly reliable for the abuse they received.
As long as it wasn't held at high rpm for sustained periods, lack of maintainance didn't bother them too much
Lack of maintainance was the reason for recall and new cam chain tensioner design, chain got too loose, beat on tensioner until it broke and the pieces locked up motor.
Nothing really wrong with the original design IF proper service was done every 1,500 & 3,000 miles
 
Update: New (old) starter arrived as well as my rebuild kit. Took it apart to find that the brushes still had a lot of life left in them and it was just a little dirty inside. I replaced 2 gaskets, but everything else looked ok. Then decided to paint it and Autosol'd the screws that hold it together to get the oxidation off. I'm very happy with it.

Before

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After

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The Honda oil filter socket tool ($12) arrived so I was able to remove it and clean it up really well. It's back on and looking great. The filter screen is also clean. There wasn't much in it to speak of, so that seems like a good sign. The rubber that hold the screen to the housing seems brittle, so I didn't want to pry it off and have it crumble... Was able to leave it on and clean it with a toothbrush and some degreaser.

Since I was painting the starter, I decided to repaint the carburetor caps. I never really was in love with the matte aluminum finish they had... So I took them off and painted them. However, when I took them off, I saw the diaphragms that I purchased from JBM Industries last year. Was so disappointed when I saw this:

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I contacted Don and he responded within 5 minutes and said that he was sending me another one in the mail that day. AWESOME customer service. I do not think he has inferior products and he went above and beyond in my opinion. He explained that it could've been a number of things that might've caused that in the molding process, which just created a weak point. The other one is fine and I couldn't be happier that he stood behind his product like that. I'm just glad that I decided to take the cover off to paint it or I wouldn't have seen that... Would've been much more frustrating later.

Lastly, painting my gas tank was one of the first things I tackled with this. I still needed to clear over the decals that I'd put on it. So, I decided to wet sand the clear a little bit to get some imperfections and get it smooth but roughed up a little for the new layer of clear to bite to. I'm not sure if I am following any correct steps, but I wet sanded with 800 to get out a few indentations and such and then with 1000. I also sanded the paint off in the inner lip of the gas cap so it wouldn't lift later from the gas. Then wiped it down and hung it to spray it again with a can of the 2x clear that I had left over. Glad I had it... It has a little button on the bottom of the can that you "pop" to release the hardener and then you shake it to mix. Sprayed about 5 coats onto it and it's looking great. Wanted to seal those decals in there since they were so intricate with the different colors of black & white. Very easy for them to snag and peel up.

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