CB Home Brew 836%
- Thread starter MCR
- Start date
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
Ok, all assembly done and ready for the big outdoors for a test run, trouble is as soon as I take her outside and fire her up, the alternator crank case starts leaking oil big time, turns out to be the alternator wires / rubber block has perished allowing oil past it.
Back in the workshop for running repairs then off to one of Greenwoods Classic Bike Shows at Three Counties Malvern. Loads of great bikes and a good autojumble, unfortunately only standard period bikes get a look in at this show.
See, no oil leaks..wooha.
All was fine on the run there and back, apart from the oil pressure guage packing up on me (stuck open), swoped it for a Smiths guage and been fine since.
Modifications that followed first run:
Twin pull, quick action throttle
Headlamp..twice until settling on the Bonnie type with ameter.
Rear sets possition...30mm higher.
Fork oil level and viscosity.
Ext spring length shortend.
Engine oil now Castrol 10/40...was using semi synthetic, clutch didnt like it.
New clutch plates...were still slipping at 4.5thou.
Oil cooler and lines.
Carbs replaced...CR29's.
Kill switch and fuse box location.
Back in the workshop for running repairs then off to one of Greenwoods Classic Bike Shows at Three Counties Malvern. Loads of great bikes and a good autojumble, unfortunately only standard period bikes get a look in at this show.
See, no oil leaks..wooha.
All was fine on the run there and back, apart from the oil pressure guage packing up on me (stuck open), swoped it for a Smiths guage and been fine since.
Modifications that followed first run:
Twin pull, quick action throttle
Headlamp..twice until settling on the Bonnie type with ameter.
Rear sets possition...30mm higher.
Fork oil level and viscosity.
Ext spring length shortend.
Engine oil now Castrol 10/40...was using semi synthetic, clutch didnt like it.
New clutch plates...were still slipping at 4.5thou.
Oil cooler and lines.
Carbs replaced...CR29's.
Kill switch and fuse box location.
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
I went ahead and moded up and fitted 4TLS front brake set up from a Suzuki GT750j 72 model. Also removed the screen to show off the Bonnie headlamp with amp.
Comments welcome ref the standard front mudguard, I'm thinking of modifying it to reduce the front profile??
Comments welcome ref the standard front mudguard, I'm thinking of modifying it to reduce the front profile??
LovingtheCLE
Been Around the Block
Excellent build. She has a sound to match her beauty. Well done!
MCR
"Don't wait for your ship to come in" Sheene
OK, a while has passed since last post but a lot has changed with the bike that may be of interest? as follows:
Suspension:
1. was using CB900F DOHC rear shocks, a bit lumpy so changed to some cheep French gas shocks. Smoother but a little too high and limited dampening adjustment...I liked the look though.
2. tried various versions on the theme until I came across the current shocks....IKON (aka KONI) perfect fit and predictable ride.
3. front shocks were CBF2 with twin discs, later changed to GT750J 4TLS drum and later fitted with progressive springs, spaced to give correct ride height.
Oil tank:
1. modified tank depth to give greater capacity, as the lower volume was cooking the oil too soon.
2. changed end fittings for ease of removal and look.
Electrics:
1. upgraded reg/rec and fitted Antigravity 8amp hr (not running elec start)
2. completely rewired.
3. replaced Dyna S for new one as the pick up posts were worn / loose on the backing plate so loosing gap tolerance.
Engine: best bit
1. complete rebuild with new chains, cam adjusters, bearings, replaced 1st gear and kick assembly, rockers, clutch etc.
2. 10.25 high comp Wiseco pistons (836cc)
3. Flowed F2 head and barrels: tried F2 head and K barrels with modified oilways, doesn't work!
4. Cycle X oversized superflow (F2) valves, beehive spring retainers, competition springs, CX3 Web-Cam,
5. Ape HD head bolts.
*Credit to Dave @ D&M Engineering for sorting the squish tolerances and head work*
Carbs:
1. was using standard then CR29's...worked right out of the box, apart from making new cables.
2. now swapped to CR31's. had to raise the needles to No.5 slot and reduce pilot jet -1. a Dyno test needed now.
3. quick action Venhill throttle makes all the difference.
Frame:
1. modified cross rails for head work without removing engine....based on Carpy's idea, but with triangular bracing as per original design.
2. additional bracing welded on to support that Titanic Dresda tank.
Wheels:
1. Morad (Akront) valanced rims with SS spokes.
Exhaust:
1. was using a Carpy 4/1 system, nice fit and sound..used to leak gas at welds. still have it for if wanted by others.
2. now using a SS MotoGP Works system, sprung joints...very nice quality. I believe Carpy is offering the very one now.
Odds'n sods:
1. made a Norton type race fairing with quick release mounts, loved it but as the winter nights drew in it was a pain (literally)shoving it down my jacket to use the headlight.
2. Shoehorned in a Jaguar headlamp into the Bonnie shell, still using it.
3. rebuilt the original clocks with new faces and chrome shells, looked like rabbit ears so ditched them in favour of the mini clocks...tip rubber mount them well or they break down.
4. fitted modified pedestrian and bacon slicer...mostly for the look.
Goodies:
1. Tarrozi rear sets.
2. Norton SS tank strap (modified).
3. custom alu seat made by a local chap to my dims.
4. Aluminium race fairing by STORIK. The owner and aluminium French genius called Laurent is the best, quick turn around and relatively reasonable prices, especially for such top class work and he's based in the UK...perfect.
5. Purchased a basic head mount from US, took 3 months and was crap so kept half and remade rest as well as made mid brackets.
*a complete nightmare to get the tolerances correct, allowing for geometry and stability, worth the hassle though...recommend lock wire to suspend fairing over frame for fine adjustment pre taking final dims*
Conclusion:
She now has the look and feel of the bike dream I had back in 2012 when I started this post, I don't think there is anything else I can or would want to do to her. She's not the best or most professional build, but she's mine and we gel nicely.
Suspension:
1. was using CB900F DOHC rear shocks, a bit lumpy so changed to some cheep French gas shocks. Smoother but a little too high and limited dampening adjustment...I liked the look though.
2. tried various versions on the theme until I came across the current shocks....IKON (aka KONI) perfect fit and predictable ride.
3. front shocks were CBF2 with twin discs, later changed to GT750J 4TLS drum and later fitted with progressive springs, spaced to give correct ride height.
Oil tank:
1. modified tank depth to give greater capacity, as the lower volume was cooking the oil too soon.
2. changed end fittings for ease of removal and look.
Electrics:
1. upgraded reg/rec and fitted Antigravity 8amp hr (not running elec start)
2. completely rewired.
3. replaced Dyna S for new one as the pick up posts were worn / loose on the backing plate so loosing gap tolerance.
Engine: best bit
1. complete rebuild with new chains, cam adjusters, bearings, replaced 1st gear and kick assembly, rockers, clutch etc.
2. 10.25 high comp Wiseco pistons (836cc)
3. Flowed F2 head and barrels: tried F2 head and K barrels with modified oilways, doesn't work!
4. Cycle X oversized superflow (F2) valves, beehive spring retainers, competition springs, CX3 Web-Cam,
5. Ape HD head bolts.
*Credit to Dave @ D&M Engineering for sorting the squish tolerances and head work*
Carbs:
1. was using standard then CR29's...worked right out of the box, apart from making new cables.
2. now swapped to CR31's. had to raise the needles to No.5 slot and reduce pilot jet -1. a Dyno test needed now.
3. quick action Venhill throttle makes all the difference.
Frame:
1. modified cross rails for head work without removing engine....based on Carpy's idea, but with triangular bracing as per original design.
2. additional bracing welded on to support that Titanic Dresda tank.
Wheels:
1. Morad (Akront) valanced rims with SS spokes.
Exhaust:
1. was using a Carpy 4/1 system, nice fit and sound..used to leak gas at welds. still have it for if wanted by others.
2. now using a SS MotoGP Works system, sprung joints...very nice quality. I believe Carpy is offering the very one now.
Odds'n sods:
1. made a Norton type race fairing with quick release mounts, loved it but as the winter nights drew in it was a pain (literally)shoving it down my jacket to use the headlight.
2. Shoehorned in a Jaguar headlamp into the Bonnie shell, still using it.
3. rebuilt the original clocks with new faces and chrome shells, looked like rabbit ears so ditched them in favour of the mini clocks...tip rubber mount them well or they break down.
4. fitted modified pedestrian and bacon slicer...mostly for the look.
Goodies:
1. Tarrozi rear sets.
2. Norton SS tank strap (modified).
3. custom alu seat made by a local chap to my dims.
4. Aluminium race fairing by STORIK. The owner and aluminium French genius called Laurent is the best, quick turn around and relatively reasonable prices, especially for such top class work and he's based in the UK...perfect.
5. Purchased a basic head mount from US, took 3 months and was crap so kept half and remade rest as well as made mid brackets.
*a complete nightmare to get the tolerances correct, allowing for geometry and stability, worth the hassle though...recommend lock wire to suspend fairing over frame for fine adjustment pre taking final dims*
Conclusion:
She now has the look and feel of the bike dream I had back in 2012 when I started this post, I don't think there is anything else I can or would want to do to her. She's not the best or most professional build, but she's mine and we gel nicely.
