mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Keep the extra box anyway....they do fail often....I hoped that would of fid it.....
Classic Auto Mechanics - Needing help with '77 Lincoln Continental Mark V
- Thread starter Redliner
- Start date
Redliner
Over 1,000 Posts
I wish I was that lucky...
I did have an inline spark tester in the #4 line and it was NEVER dim or weak, so it is not a spark issue. The spark plug isn't fouling up either, so it's just not sucking anything in, right?
Maybe my valve has hammered into the seat to the point my lifter preload is holding it open or something?
Is it possible for a lifter to get loaded with oil and not let any out and thus retain negative clearance?
Whatever it is, it gets worse when hot because it starts to buck. Maybe the bucking is the #4 intermittently getting some action? Blowing back through the carb when it catches or something? As things heat up, clearances change and well...
I did have an inline spark tester in the #4 line and it was NEVER dim or weak, so it is not a spark issue. The spark plug isn't fouling up either, so it's just not sucking anything in, right?
Maybe my valve has hammered into the seat to the point my lifter preload is holding it open or something?
Is it possible for a lifter to get loaded with oil and not let any out and thus retain negative clearance?
Whatever it is, it gets worse when hot because it starts to buck. Maybe the bucking is the #4 intermittently getting some action? Blowing back through the carb when it catches or something? As things heat up, clearances change and well...
Does this thing have the smog pump? That is a known issue with these Fords. I had a Galaxie 500 where I removed all of the emissions except the EGR and PCV systems. I'd at least delete the smog pump and see if that solves your running issues. Also, are you sure that's fuel coming from the tail pipe? Condensation is normal.
it might be worth a hours work to pull the rocker cover
some of those fod valves had this little cap thing that goes on top of the stem they can lift and jam and hold the valve open
i cant remember them being on 460s but i was not a ford mechanic much but checking the rockers is pretty straight forward
the other thing it brings to mind is has the carb been off ?
i had a dead cylinder olds brought to me once doing the same as yours and it turned out to be a rag sucked into that intake port
some of those fod valves had this little cap thing that goes on top of the stem they can lift and jam and hold the valve open
i cant remember them being on 460s but i was not a ford mechanic much but checking the rockers is pretty straight forward
the other thing it brings to mind is has the carb been off ?
i had a dead cylinder olds brought to me once doing the same as yours and it turned out to be a rag sucked into that intake port
Redliner
Over 1,000 Posts
Lot of help right here :
Dev:
Yes it has the air injector. I have stuffed a ball into the pipe though, so it's fully plugged. The check-valve wasn't working so it was blowing exhaust into the pump.
Not sure that it's fuel, now that I think of it. It just wreaks.
cx:
That is my next step. Glad to hear about a cap I've never heard of before. I would have never looked for that. I have taken the intake manifold off and seen the runners and intake ports all clear. Wouldn't a blockage mean no compression? At least it would certainly be different than the other cylinders, and in my case every cylinder hits 150psi on the nose.
DOHC:
This is good to know!
Dev:
Yes it has the air injector. I have stuffed a ball into the pipe though, so it's fully plugged. The check-valve wasn't working so it was blowing exhaust into the pump.
Not sure that it's fuel, now that I think of it. It just wreaks.
cx:
That is my next step. Glad to hear about a cap I've never heard of before. I would have never looked for that. I have taken the intake manifold off and seen the runners and intake ports all clear. Wouldn't a blockage mean no compression? At least it would certainly be different than the other cylinders, and in my case every cylinder hits 150psi on the nose.
DOHC:
This is good to know!
barnett468
Coast to Coast
.
ok i have never heard of cylinder that had good compression and good wires and spark to it that wouldn't fire unless it had no fuel.
if you have not installed new plugs since the prob started, swap number 4 plug with another cylinder . . the porcelain might be cracked which can cause probs.
the problem is not your valve lift or your lifters unless you hear a loud ticking sound but at this point, it certainly wouldn't hurt to remove the valve cover on the side of number 4 cylinder as suggested and let it idle and physically look at the valves to see if they open properly.
you can also buy a spark plug called a "color tune" and try this in number 4 and a cylinder you know is firing.
if your districutor cap is not new, you can clean it inside and scrape any big chunks off the posts on the inside.
sinvce tje carnb has gas all over it, obviously rebuild it.
remove 2 plug wires and then try removing number 4 and see if the rpm changes.
lower the idle and check for vacuum leaks again with flammable brake cleaner with the long nozzle and gently spray every fitting and at the carb base and at the intake at the head . . the pcv hoses sometimes leak where they plug into the carb.
plug off every vacuum fitting on the carb itself one at a time to see if that changes anything
you can just plug the pcv for now until your problem is resolved.
.
gobeinks ofithe posts inside
ok i have never heard of cylinder that had good compression and good wires and spark to it that wouldn't fire unless it had no fuel.
if you have not installed new plugs since the prob started, swap number 4 plug with another cylinder . . the porcelain might be cracked which can cause probs.
the problem is not your valve lift or your lifters unless you hear a loud ticking sound but at this point, it certainly wouldn't hurt to remove the valve cover on the side of number 4 cylinder as suggested and let it idle and physically look at the valves to see if they open properly.
you can also buy a spark plug called a "color tune" and try this in number 4 and a cylinder you know is firing.
if your districutor cap is not new, you can clean it inside and scrape any big chunks off the posts on the inside.
sinvce tje carnb has gas all over it, obviously rebuild it.
remove 2 plug wires and then try removing number 4 and see if the rpm changes.
lower the idle and check for vacuum leaks again with flammable brake cleaner with the long nozzle and gently spray every fitting and at the carb base and at the intake at the head . . the pcv hoses sometimes leak where they plug into the carb.
plug off every vacuum fitting on the carb itself one at a time to see if that changes anything
you can just plug the pcv for now until your problem is resolved.
.
gobeinks ofithe posts inside
Nebr_Rex
Coast to Coast
A weak spring will have no affect. A broken one would. Are you worried of the valve hanging open?
Have you tried pulling no. 4 plug to see what kind of spark it produces with that plug wire?
Have you pulled the valve covers and felt the rock arm movement with the coil wire disconnected?
Compression, fuel, spark, which one is missing? Have you checked compression and vacuum
with different gauges to assure accuracy?
.
Have you tried pulling no. 4 plug to see what kind of spark it produces with that plug wire?
Have you pulled the valve covers and felt the rock arm movement with the coil wire disconnected?
Compression, fuel, spark, which one is missing? Have you checked compression and vacuum
with different gauges to assure accuracy?
.
Shit man, pull all of that emissions crap out of there and you have a good big block. That's a truck motor. Not an uncommon swap for an F250. It'll go and go and go. I jumped off the wagon as a teen and raced VWs because at the time it was cheap, but I'm back full in with American muscle.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
Not really the manufacturers fault. American CONSUMERS determine the market, and convincing them that OHV wasn't the bees knees took a long time. I still wince when I hear an old timer complaining about technology that was more than likely old news in other countries long before they were born. That being said, OHC engines have valve guides too.
Float a valve, as in when the valve is open it stays open too long due to insufficient pressure from a spring that is too weak to react quick enough. Remember that the job of the spring is to close the valve at the same rate as the cam allows, while also not being so strong that it robs power due to parasitic loss or simply wears the cam out. yes, old Ford valves are heavy and when the springs wear out they have a tendency to float. I honestly have not read enough of this thread to determine whether or not this is an issue for you.
Float a valve, as in when the valve is open it stays open too long due to insufficient pressure from a spring that is too weak to react quick enough. Remember that the job of the spring is to close the valve at the same rate as the cam allows, while also not being so strong that it robs power due to parasitic loss or simply wears the cam out. yes, old Ford valves are heavy and when the springs wear out they have a tendency to float. I honestly have not read enough of this thread to determine whether or not this is an issue for you.
DohcBikes
Fuck You.
Ok. Go ahead and post a quote that came from me that's b.s.Nebr_Rex said:
You are WAY out of your league son. How's that diy fuel injection coming? LOL.
You do know they already make what you want, right? Continue to try to make a wheel "more rounder".
Ya know I hate to be a dick but no I don't.
Redliner
Over 1,000 Posts
Redliner said:
I'm not saying Ford did anything wrong with their valve guides.
After working on 60's and 70's Jap cars, going back to these pigs feels like helping a remedial child with his art project. "Do you think the moon is a boy or a girl?" "Well, Jimmy, yes" "See, I told Mrs. Baker that you can eat the whole banana but she says no, she says you have to peel them but I didn't, see?" "Of course, Jimmy. No no, we don't glue our bananas, Jimmy."
Nebr_Rex said:Are you worried of the valve hanging open?
-- Yep
Have you tried pulling no. 4 plug to see what kind of spark it produces with that plug wire?
-- No. I put a new plug in the boot while the old one remains in the head. It looks the same as the other ones. I swapped wires with a different cylinder and the issue didn't follow.
Have you pulled the valve covers and felt the rock arm movement with the coil wire disconnected?
-- No. Valve cover is next on the list.
Have you checked compression and vacuum
with different gauges to assure accuracy?
--Yes, actually. It was a side-effect of being away from my tools at home
Miles?
--107k
deviant said:
Heads, deck height, and cam timing all changed so much between years that a '97 is not the same as a '69.
The emissions included are an EGR, PCV, and AIR. EGR has no detriments until it goes bad. AIR is plugged, so isn't a factor. PCV...just vents.
I have the best heads for pump fuel, just need to take them down a few thousandths to up compression while being safe for 87-91 pump.
I rephased the cam to the ORIGINAL timing. After 1971 they started to retard the cam angle 4° to essentially lower compression.
As for the weak spring, I was wondering if in this specific case it would have an effect on my idle. I know that you notice week springs with more revs, but these pushrod iron slabs are different.
