New DTT member 360T build

Have you checked compression? Checked valve tappet gaps? Does it run on one cylinder at idle and also when you rev to higher rpms?

Got her running, between re adjusting the points and timing, putting more fuel in the tank so it could run on ON not RESERVE, plugs are nice and golden from running here and bought a bunch to do plug chops and adjust the carbs to the best of my ability.

But I need to find time this week to get her inspected.

Sweet. Sounds like it's all in place for the rest of the season.

Virgin ride is under my belt!

Inspection done all the stickers in the right place and the plate is on. Went for a nice short ride to and from the Service Shop < 40 mph, illegally ie. I'm riding on a permit... : all went well.

The right exhaust is blowing a little smoke and there is a pulsating feeling around 4k rpm so ill have to look into that. and some noises that may or may not be normal as far as drive and cam chain go. i was used to being a passenger on the CB750k, so it was a bit of a more powerful and smoother pull

For now I'm ecstatic and my adrenaline is pumping. cant wait to get her tuned up perfect.

ps. I only stalled it a couple times... gotta start somewhere!

Have you synced the carbs? They will cause some vibration or pulse unsynced.

Just bought a carburetor synchronizer online for cheap

Parts included in the Kit:

1 x Bracket
2 x 2 & 3/4" Gauges
2 x Hoses 4mm(.I.D)x7mm(O.D.)x75cm (L)
2 x plastic Valves 5.5mm(O.D.)
1 x 180mm(M5xP0.8 ) Brass Extension
1 x 65mm(M5xP0.8 ) Brass Extension

I'm just wondering if these are going to be able to connect to my carbs or not, kinda aiming this towards pj cause you said you had a set of vacuum adapters available.

yep, pj is the only source for proper adapters, i know of.

got the adapters a while back but i was on vacation, ill be doing the tuneup later this week. the battery is dead from sitting for about 2.5 - 3 weeks without being ran, has anyone else had a new battery die so quick (acid refill type).

I got my bar end mirrors in the mail and try to install them but come to find out there is a solid plug inside both bar ends... didn't know about this setback...



and the bar end mirros only go in about .5 inch and need to go about a full 2 inches



not quite sure what to do, I've done a little googling and some people have drilled and tapped the solid bit and just screwed into it with some loc-tite...

So the smoking issue was excess fuel, took the carbs apart and the slow jet was just sitting in the bowl like it just wasn't screwed in tight. bike runs alright but needs the carbs synced, i have the gauges but has anyone done the adjustment without the motion pro tool?

My battery is not holding a charge, I put the float charger on it and get it to 12v. Button everything up give the bike a kick it starts and runs fine. As soon as I turn it off or I stall out I have no power. Luckily with about 10 kicks i can get her going again. the charging system was working when i got the battery, giving me over 13v but ill have to recheck that now.

I also bought a tap from homedepot for $5 so i will have the bar end mirrors attached once I drill and tap the bars.

Solved the electrical issue by keeping the bike on the float charger for 24 hours and now its good and strong, even the electric starter works again, (must not have been getting enough power). I currently have the float charger hooked up to the battery but as I do not trust Harbor Freight electronics; I have a timer attached to the float charger so it only runs for a maximum of 2 hours twice a day.

Got the bar end mirrors on and only running into a few snags along the way with drilling and taping the stock in the bars, broke the drill bit in the bar. Luckily I was able to get the bit out with some careful fidgeting for 10 min. had to use another drill bit, unfortunately the closest I had was 1/64 smaller which usually wouldnt be that bad but it made the taping much more difficult. The taping process I took nice and slow because I did not want to have the tap snap off in the bar due to the slightly smaller hole. Luckily the bolt for the bar ends is a 8x1.25 bolt and the hole in the bar is over 1.5" deep so there's plenty of beef to hold it in snug. I used some anti-seize so I can take them off in the future if need be.

Took the bike out for a spin and the improvement on visibility is incredible! I can see everything now and there's not too much distortion when it comes to judging distance, nothing my usual head checks don't cover. there is vibration but still not bad enough to not show cars coming up on you.

Attached are some pictures with where the bike stands now and a quick photo of the shop (garage).

The machine is looking great, But I dont know how you guys can see a darn thing in those little tiny mirrors.

They are quite a bit smaller but the field of view is much better, here are some comparison photos in my driveway.

Sorry that the mirrors are all dirty...



It's helpful to not be staring at my arms the whole time and I can see whats about 5 ft behind me (my car is about 25 ft back). it does take some getting used to because the depth of field is a little distorted but the head checks verify where cars are before lane changes.

Good to see you back at it, I was following right up until you went to college or where ever you buggered off to.

That's a really nice comparison of the mirrors too.

not going to lie the mirrors do have a lot of vibration on the road... but i don't need to be able to read the license plate of the guy behind me

Drilling and tapping the weights is a good idea, the stock fittings are pretty crap and mirrors work out of bars

So its been quite a while but I'm back and here's an update on whats been going on. As soon as I returned home from college i took my road test and now have my license. Finally got around to syncing the carbs, setting the idle mixture levels and a nice cleanup of the carbs. it now idles down to 1k rpm although I tend to keep it around 1,500 when riding.

I replaced the stock bars with some lower euro/super sport style bars, wanted some more forward lean and lower control without getting too aggressive and ruining ride-ability. Had to drill out the bars to run the stock wiring internally and without to much trouble was able to get them fished through. put the bar end mirrors back on with the expanding clamps they came with cause the new bars didn't have weights inside to drill and tap again. the vibration on the road is gone now in the mirrors which is a much appreciated improvement.

So far this summer past month and a half I have put 800+ miles on the road, trying to enjoy every free moment and get on the bike. the new riding position is great and keeps stress of my back and arms during longer rides.

beginning of the summer


new bars installed

some things i want to go are to have my turn signals act at amber running lights, either on when on low beam, on a separate switch, or on whenever the lights are on. just wanting to get a little bit more visibility at night. I'm not sure how to do this because i believe the 360's were all 2 wire lights and to have a running light you need a 3 wire outlet. so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

also as I ride along and come to a stop the engine is idling around 2k so i adjust it back to around 1,500. but as i go it keeps getting up to 2k and once again I readjust, it seems like I just keep adjusting down further and further on ling rides and was wondering of this is normal???

also i just replaced my front brake pads because it sounded like a subway train was trying to stop whenever I applied the front brake, now its as quiet at a mouse!

Front turn signals should have running lights in them. Get a set of front signals and install them on the rear and run wires from the tail light to the low beam feed in the lights.

For the idle, you should be setting the Idle and the idle mixture when the bike is warmed up really well. If you set it cold it will do exactly what you say its doing. Can also be that your not getting the throttle back down to closed, roll forward on the throttle when it does it and see if the idle goes back down.

Otherwise you might have an air leak that shows up when the bike gets warm. Cracks in the intake boots will do that as the bikes warm up.

Thanks for the reply frogman,

Opened the headlight bucket and found both running light wires were disconnected, PO must not have liked them or something. I plugged them into a open connector so now as long as the key is on the running lights are on, high or low beam, I'll try them out at night but may switch to a different power leed if I find the running lights to be obtrusive when having high beam on back roads.

I was thinking you were saying to just get the same bulbs as the front to put in the back but when I got home realized that it's a different socket, can you just change the internals of the rear signals or is it better to replace the whole unit??? I want to keep oem style lights.

My carb boots do have very tiny hairline cracks doesn't seem to affect performance besides the higher idle when she gets to full temp. If I find a set for not a lot of $ I'll be more inclined to replace them.