1974 Honda CB360 - Complete winter tear down (VERY pic heavy)

Sonreir said:
The stroke and compression numbers don't matter (as much) as the bore numbers when it comes to buy rings. I'd try to find some that are 67mm (67.5mm from Weisco is incorrect for stock size pistons on the 360). There's almost always a few sets available on eBay and they're usually listed as STD size, rather than as 67mm.

Fully noted. I need to further inspect my piston for damage when I get home and see what exactly I'm looking to replace here.

BarnBurner said:
This may have been covered, but did you check the rear wheel clearance (at full compression of your shocks) before you had your buddy weld up that sheet underneath the hump of your seat? I've seen people try and do that and later have to change it because of tire contact.

Nope, it wasn't checked, but I have every intention on running a stiffer suspension if it is an issue. I matched the tail shortening spec to the same build I bought the seat from and I don't believe they had any issues. Now, my tray is welded to the bottom of the frame instead of the top, so that MAY be an issue, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. I don't mind a stiff ride at all.
 
It's a bit hard to see, but where the piston rings sit are a bit gouged on one of the pistons.

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Thankfully though, I'll have a set of pistons, rings, and other misc parts coming in soon thanks to Finnigan.

Some parts from DCC and Radiantz came in Friday. It feels nice having none maintenance parts come in for once haha.

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Too bad none of it will be going on anytime soon, but it's all there.

Finally got around to tearing off the lower case. Thanks to another user on here I did this little trick so I know where all my bolts go.

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Protip: Take two razor blades and GENTLY hammer them into the side of the case at the split. With your thinnest screwdriver, lightly tap it between the razorblades and the whole case will give way. I tried for 2 hours pulling, lifting, tapping, and this is what did it for me. Took less than 30 seconds. :)

Took it downstairs to clean it up:
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As it sits down. I ran out of engine degreaser so it's not entirely done, but it looks worlds better from previous photos.
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I made damn sure all shavings of piston ring out out of it, replaced the shift seal, and it'll all be ready to go back together soon.

Now, while I have the case separated, is there ANYTHING I should look for? Any maintenance that should be done? I'm hoping to never have to do this again and have no problem spending a few bucks replacing anything that might wear away.

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I need to finish with the lower case, reseal it, and put the engine back together. Triple tree was finally removed yesterday so everything is ready to go to powdercoat, I just have to find a day to do it. Hopefully I'm getting to a few certain milestones and things can start going back together.


Oh, and bonus pics. If you recall, I've mentioned my girlfriend is a certified harley tech. Well, she's getting sick of working on my bike all the time and wanted something for herself ready to ride in the Spring. After a few days search on craigslst, we came across this:

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(bonus pic of my 2006 scion xB raised up all the way to deal with the snow: it's on air ride)

1975 CB360T chopped into a bobber. 4,500 original miles, engine had the recall done to it, and it's completely ready to ride. So, now we've become a family of CB360's haha. I'll have the cafe, and she'll have the bobber.
 
My my it's been awhile since I've updated.

Engine is back together (a bit of an older picture, but my accomplished moment for getting the pistons back in).

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Tappets are set and all that's left to do is prime, paint, and set the points.

Attempted to rebuild one of the front forks. Even using an impact, the bottom allen screw stripped out and was unable to be removed. I even bent the head to my manual impact.

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Luckily, the seals are newer and I'm still changing the fork oil, so it's not a huge deal. One of the forks has brand new seals, the other will just be entirely replaced one day if it ever gives me issues.

Sent most of my parts off to powder coat as well and got them back:

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The parts I didn't send off to powder coat (for whatever reason) I painted the exact same paint code as was used on the frame. Rear sets are partially installed, swing arm is on, forks, clip ons, headlight eats, start of the wiring, and battery are all installed. There's all new All Balls race and bearings in the steering stem as well. Just some random pictures from the past few days:

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At this point, I SHOULD have every single thing I need to get the bike together. I'm in the process of painting my wheel hubs so I can send the rims, tires, tubes, bands, and stainless steel spokes or to get laced and trued. After that, it'll be back to a roller and I'll really jump in on the wiring.

Here's hoping it's done within two months.
 
Are you able to turn the screw at the bottom of the fork, just not get it to come out? I made a tool that slides into the fork tube with a tapered end that jams into the hole in the piston to keep it from turning while you crank. It's usually pretty hard at first, but eventually it will pop and unscrew.
 
No turning what-so-ever, even using an impact to try and break it loose. I think the previous owner used the wrong kind of locktite on the threads and they just will not budge. I debated drilled the head off, but I doubt I'll be able to remove the shaft, so it'll stay as-is unless the seal leaks somewhere down the line.

Used sets of forks are $50 on eBay, so it won't be an expensive if I ever have to worry about it.
 
mrjoshzombie said:
No turning what-so-ever, even using an impact to try and break it loose. I think the previous owner used the wrong kind of locktite on the threads and they just will not budge. I debated drilled the head off, but I doubt I'll be able to remove the shaft, so it'll stay as-is unless the seal leaks somewhere down the line.

Used sets of forks are $50 on eBay, so it won't be an expensive if I ever have to worry about it.
I've drilled the head off too. It'll work. The size of the allen hole in the head is basically the size of the threaded shaft on the bolt. Use a bit slightly bigger and go slow while looking for a ring when the drill head goes into the threaded shaft of the screw. Then just take a small punch and tap it through. If you drill too far, as long as you're lined up with the hole in the fork bottom, you'll just go into the oil lock at the bottom which won't hurt anything as long it's just a mm or so.
 
Had the day off yesterday thanks to the snow, so put in some more work on the bike.

With a bit of help, managed to get the front and rear hubs laced with brand new buchanan spokes.

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They'll be sent off to get trued, new tubes, bands, and tires later in the week.

Also managed to modify the bar controls for the wires to exit with the clip ons, got my grips, one mirror, and a bunch of other misc stuff mounted/mocked up.

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I'm going to pull apart my brake system, clean, and get it painted before final install. All chrome bits are getting painted the same blue as my hubs when I get some mixed up, I need to fabricate a mount for my gauges somehow, turn signals need some work, but, at least I'm getting an idea of how it's going to look.
 
Well I'll be damned, just looked at the stock exhaust and saw the stoppers. Never noticed that before.


Here's homing the mac 2-1 has a stop, or looks like I'll be fabbing something. Thanks for the stupid fast response.
 
Great work Josh!

Thank you for your time and updates. I love the unique style your going for. I envy your photography skills, the pictures tell a lot of words ;)

On a side note I would love to wake up every morning and have a coffee whilst staring endlessly at my biked parked in my house! Your very lucky!
 
Haven't decided yet, I have three options though. Stock chrome that I can cut down how I see fit and paint, already painted matte black stock fender, or a chopped short and modified one from a 350. I'm waiting to get the front end more "together" before I decide on that one.
 
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