1983 GL1100 muscle bob

yeah it was pretty straight forward for the head removal. One of the gaskets just peeled off by hand while the other had to be scraped off. Now my friend is trying to decide if its worth it to change the headgaskets or to check if the donor bike engine is any good. Hes not wanting to throw away that money if the block or head is cracked, ya know?
 
Got the full top end gasket set in. Unfortunately, the postal service machines devoured the packaging, so some douchebag at the post office decided to put all the gaskets in a small bag. The headgaskets wouldnt fit in the bag flat, so they folded 'em.

The headgaskets are the layered type, so of course they split...
 
New head gaskets in. Fires right up now. Unfortunately it wont stay idling. Idle screw turned all the way in, and it doesnt seem to matter. Along the same lines, the carbs are synch'd however, the synch screws are all the way out. That doesnt seem right.

The left side cylinders are not as hot to the touch as the right side cylinders... sigh... They have spark, and they have gas. Carb floats were set to specs, as were the fuel air screws.

Thoughts? I have some theories, but id like a second opinion
 
timing marks all line up. No air leaks. Swapped out spark plugs for fresh ones and it ran better. However after running it for a little while ~5min it starts bogging down while idling, and eventually dies. A quick touch test reveals the left side is still colder than the right by a significant amount.

When it bogs i have to give it a full twist in order to keep it running and even then, its only sitting at about 3000 rpm.

Checked the battery after running and it was sitting at 12.44v after cranking it with no start it dropped to 12.23v
 
Pulled the carbs, cleaned them up, and slapped them back on. Bike runs like a charm for about 2 days, then the left side goes cold
 
Thats what i was thinking, but hoping no one else would second that... Why can't the 1100s have the drain that the 1000s do?
 
after you re clean the carbs

pull the top off the fuel pump and look in the check valves in the top

if they are not to bad then put a fine fuel filter before the pump

and one after the pump and see it that will do it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLACK-FUEL-FILTER-WITH-REPLACEABLE-BRASS-ELEMENT-1-4-FUEL-LINE-INLINE-FILTER-/171799130228?hash=item280006b074&vxp=mtr

i have that set up using emgo fuel filters on my 1100 and so far i have had to clean them 4 times the first 2000 miles

then maybe one or 2 times last year and so far so good this year

you dont need tools to take them apart and clean them
 
I have a cleanable filter between the tank and pump already. I will check the fuel pump today
 
it sucks but a lot of those cleanable filters are 40-60 microns nominal

they will let water and small rocks thru into the carb and not even show on the elements
 
Well, went out of town for a month and some change for work. Took the bike over to a friends shop that owed me money with the intent for them to finish it while i was gone. Survey says:


...Cracked block...


Thankfully i have a donor bike, though the engine in that one is in unknown condition
 
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