Bad noise after rebuild

Mr-Wolf

Mr-Wolf

Been Around the Block
Well shit.
She is rebuilt and I went to give her her first test run and this noise happened. Its weird seems random but I'm really nervous about doing it More to find it better. I don't want to damage anything. Anyone got a clue what it is or where to start? It's a 1979 cb650 bored out to 61mm

Take spark plugs Does it less, almost light the compression is causing strain. Starter maybe?


https://youtu.be/bczP01HuZEo
 
What teazer said but you need to pull it apart to check. Sometimes the ramps that the rollers grab onto also get ruts in them - you can flatten them out with a die grinder.
 
If anyone is interested, I found this thread with pictures that goes into detail of the process.
http://hondacb650.com/viewtopic.php?t=9355

And here is a link to the rebuild kit I ordered
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381406691071


teazer said:
Hopefully all it needs is new springs and rollers.
Click to expand...
I ordered a rebuild kit (springs, rollers, caps) so hopefully it will be just that simple.

hillsy said:
What teazer said but you need to pull it apart to check. Sometimes the ramps that the rollers grab onto also get ruts in them - you can flatten them out with a die grinder.
Click to expand...
Once parts get here next week I will take it apart and hopefully all is well. If not, grinder it is......
 
I did this last night......and it sucked. It was so beat up that I could just pull out the bolts and slip them through the gears, one of the bolts had backed out and was what was making the horrible noise. The screws where partially covered by the plate that covers the (brass?) main body. After several hours of trying to finesse it out I finally gave up and rough-housed it out with success. replaced the parts and put locktight on the bolts got it all together and it spins like a dream now!
 
Mr-Wolf said:
I did this last night......and it sucked. It was so beat up that I could just pull out the bolts and slip them through the gears, one of the bolts had backed out and was what was making the horrible noise. The screws where partially covered by the plate that covers the (brass?) main body. After several hours of trying to finesse it out I finally gave up and rough-housed it out with success. replaced the parts and put locktight on the bolts got it all together and it spins like a dream now!
Click to expand...


I lied, shits still broke.
 
adventurco said:
You got any pics of what you did to fix? Does it have a kick starter?
Click to expand...

I don't have any pics, I just followed the plan in the forum I linked above.
I wish, I really really wish but it doesn't.

It has to be the starter as it is push startable, and run (shitty, still need to adjust timing, carbs and torque head) but runs none the less.
it feels like its just missing, sometimes it will grab and actually spin the motor but only for a fractional second then it slips off again.
 
adventurco said:
You got any pics of what you did to fix? Does it have a kick starter?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Click to expand...

No kickstart on CB650 but it is possible to convert it using CB500 parts as almost all crankcases were bored for kickstart.
It is a big job though as cases have to be split to fit parts.
You did check the housing for cracks? It isn't common on CB650 (900-1100 are quite common as they use same parts)
The drive gear and idler gear are good without any damaged teeth?
I thought timing was fixed on 650 as Honda discontinued points and went electronic with it?
 
crazypj said:
No kickstart on CB650 but it is possible to convert it using CB500 parts as almost all crankcases were bored for kickstart.
It is a big job though as cases have to be split to fit parts.
You did check the housing for cracks? It isn't common on CB650 (900-1100 are quite common as they use same parts)
The drive gear and idler gear are good without any damaged teeth?
I thought timing was fixed on 650 as Honda discontinued points and went electronic with it?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I don't think I want one bad enough to spit the case!
which housing?
I saw no damaged teeth on anything, much to my surprise!
You still have to advance and retard electronic ignitions do you not? am I crazy?
 
It has a mechanical advancer but I think the trigger unit mounting plate only has clearance holes instead of being slotted.
It's pretty common for the ATD to be seized, have you checked it's operating properly?
 
crazypj said:
It has a mechanical advancer but I think the trigger unit mounting plate only has clearance holes instead of being slotted.
Click to expand...

is this in regards to the timing?

crazypj said:
It's pretty common for the ATD to be seized, have you checked it's operating properly?
Click to expand...

ATD?
 
crazypj said:
Yes
Automatic Timing Device - advance mechanism
Click to expand...

I will have to look at it, but I just went through the manual and it mentions adjusting the timing by moving the plate.

How can I go about checking that?
 
Quickest way to check is just remove plate and try rotating it.
You remove the 10mm nut to slide it off stud . Usually they are pretty tight fit in a recess in end of crank
I have a 650 crank in workshop that I was going to put in my 550 (plus had cam until I sold it last year as I was broke :( )
 
So, here is your starter clutch:


starterclutch_zpsd0fd6c2e.jpg



The "ramps" can get notched and the rollers do not engage properly. You can see where the rollers sit (the circle marks in the cavities), the cavity is not symmetrical, but gets smaller towards the left. This decrease needs to be smooth / notch / divot free or else the rollers will not engage properly.
 
crazypj said:
Quickest way to check is just remove plate and try rotating it.
You remove the 10mm nut to slide it off stud . Usually they are pretty tight fit in a recess in end of crank
I have a 650 crank in workshop that I was going to put in my 550 (plus had cam until I sold it last year as I was broke :( )
Click to expand...

I will give that a look!

hillsy said:
So, here is your starter clutch:


starterclutch_zpsd0fd6c2e.jpg



The "ramps" can get notched and the rollers do not engage properly. You can see where the rollers sit (the circle marks in the cavities), the cavity is not symmetrical, but gets smaller towards the left. This decrease needs to be smooth / notch / divot free or else the rollers will not engage properly.
Click to expand...

Hillsy I think that is exactly my problem, I think I remember see divots in the one way bearing! Any chance you or anyone know where I can get a replacement?
 
https://youtu.be/FhmrT7pdKCA

Here is a video I took of the old starter clutch with new rollers and such. I'm noticing that only 1 roller depresses at a time
 
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