First build ever

crazypj said:
Just posted some new 'Public Information Service' with oil filter pdf. and Honda Common Service manual pdf, you may wa't to read first and download second.
As for the clutch cover mod, that's what people are now doing.
If Photobucket sees sense and gives everyone their pictures back you'll find the info
I have never seen a cb360 run
Which is why I have trouble visualizing the oil flow
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onefromexile said:
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So if i can't tap into top cause I don't want to take any oil from oil to head path
If I use the starter delete plug feed to micro pump and cooler and feed back into the bottom of case into path for centrifugal fresh cooled oil
I'm using exsisting oil filtering and just adding a path to cool and re introduce


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onefromexile said:
So if i can't tap into top cause I don't want to take any oil from oil to head path
If I use the starter delete plug feed to micro pump and cooler and feed back into the bottom of case into path for centrifugal fresh cooled oil
I'm using exsisting oil filtering and just adding a path to cool and re introduce


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onefromexile said:
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The best I can come up with
Because of the other mods like clutch cover the heads seem to last longer
And the slinger style filtering seems to be sufficient So that's why I think introducing a cooler would only benefit even further and be the most rational course without extreme modifications
I don't want to take away from the system just improve upon it



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That's the 'outlet' better to remove inlet plug underneath cover and use small bore pipe to restrict flow. I got hold of some 1/8" copper pipe, probably 1/16" bore. It should restrict flow when oil is cold but allow a decent amount to cam when oil is hot and pressure is higher at 'elevated' rpm plus relieve some of the pressure on transfer piece. I've got a drilled cam plus oil feed into right side of rocker cover, going to do things slightly different next time though. Your system will work as long as starter is fully sealed. I'm not sure if body is rolled from sheet but not welded? Will probably add around 1/2~3/4 pint extra oil. Originally I was going to make a Cappellini style cooler to fit in place of starter with anti-drain back valve on 'intake' side
 
crazypj said:
That's the 'outlet' better to remove inlet plug underneath cover and use small bore pipe to restrict flow. I got hold of some 1/8" copper pipe, probably 1/16" bore. It should restrict flow when oil is cold but allow a decent amount to cam when oil is hot and pressure is higher at 'elevated' rpm plus relieve some of the pressure on transfer piece. I've got a drilled cam plus oil feed into right side of rocker cover, going to do things slightly different next time though. Your system will work as long as starter is fully sealed. I'm not sure if body is rolled from sheet but not welded? Will probably add around 1/2~3/4 pint extra oil. Originally I was going to make a Cappellini style cooler to fit in place of starter with anti-drain back valve on 'intake' side
I was liking the capalini too
Yes I think an anti drain back is necessary in my system
I planned on 1/8 copper lines as well in my system I won't have any complex bends and copper will help cool as well
I would like to gun drill cam and do the center bearing hole
But where would I get clean oil from to feed into ??
What if I just ran a small line from top oil passage on right case to the cam for feed use 1/8 inch copper
There should be enough pressure to feed cam


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You won't need much pressure if cam is gun drilled and 'outlets' are on base circle. As the end of rocker box has a small capacity, it will soon fill to a high enough level to run through cam and be centrifuged onto bearing surfaces and rocker pads. I recently did a cam for jlama for his 378cc conversion, sending it back tomorrow
 
crazypj said:
You won't need much pressure if cam is gun drilled and 'outlets' are on base circle. As the end of rocker box has a small capacity, it will soon fill to a high enough level to run through cam and be centrifuged onto bearing surfaces and rocker pads. I recently did a cam for jlama for his 378cc conversion, sending it back tomorrow
Sweet To know I had planned out everything then lost hope with the cam drilling and top end oil mods
I do plan to make the system I drew up
Not sure if I want to delay my build doing so because I know it will be ok without and I can then work out the system on a running bike

So if I had just a gun drilled cam

The cam itself would pick up oil from the lobe side if I had that extra feed keeping the tubs full ??




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onefromexile said:
Sweet To know I had planned out everything then lost hope with the cam drilling and top end oil mods
I do plan to make the system I drew up
Not sure if I want to delay my build doing so because I know it will be ok without and I can then work out the system on a running bike

So if I had just a gun drilled cam

The cam itself would pick up oil from the lobe side if I had that extra feed keeping the tubs full ??




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I think I get it visually

Right nowi think I'm having issues driving in the new valve guides
I bought the hand driver
And I was not able to comfortable hit them in all the way right now there about 2/3 or more
I just don't feel confident in hitting them harder I did prep' the guides and hole followed all the proper technics
I didn't have much luck with the hand driver
I think I'm going to get the air hammer one
I know lowest setting speed all that
I' may just be too paranoid because of the time invested in the head




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Valve guides should be pressed in with cold guides and a heated head if at all possible.
 
teazer said:
Valve guides should be pressed in with cold guides and a heated head if at all possible.
Yeah
I did that froze plugs and heated each hole
I have them in it's very close
Iiterally need to go down about 1/4" to the the cir-clip
I didn't have to swing too hard
I'm prolly just worried too much
Hand driving I'll get em'




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We didn't teach it but hand driving with hammer, use 4lb 'drilling' (or 'club' ) hammer.
One big hit works better than a lot of little taps and stops guide absorbing as much heat. You do need the 'tube' part that fit over driver to prevent guide going too far, the stock cast guides will fracture perfectly around the circlip groove if inserted too deep( seen it happen on brand new bike, came from factory with 'extra short two piece guides )
 
crazypj said:
We didn't teach it but hand driving with hammer, use 4lb 'drilling' (or 'club' ) hammer.
One big hit works better than a lot of little taps and stops guide absorbing as much heat. You do need the 'tube' part that fit over driver to prevent guide going too far, the stock cast guides will fracture perfectly around the circlip groove if inserted too deep( seen it happen on brand new bike, came from factory with 'extra short two piece guides )
I was able to get em in just did a couple hard hits each
I was just being a puss and over worried
I have bronze guides though too



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Bronze guides are 'better' as they won't crack but will probably 'shrink' so need reaming after fitting. Valve seats WILL need to be re-cut. I use 45, 70, 30 for three angles (mainly because they are the cutters I have ;D )
 
crazypj said:
Bronze guides are 'better' as they won't crack but will probably 'shrink' so need reaming after fitting. Valve seats WILL need to be re-cut. I use 45, 70, 30 for three angles (mainly because they are the cutters I have ;D )
I'm going to have seats re-cut same place as my cylinder bores
We just don't have the tooling at the shop I do have a 7mm reamer (.270 )
I think is the size


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Reamers are not expensive but
The boring head I wanted and the cutters for valves are
but my boss wouldn't let me get unless I could show more than one use for it
He almost bought the boring head though cause we could have used a more rigid style than the two we have
 
onefromexile said:
I'm going to have seats re-cut same place as my cylinder bores
We just don't have the tooling at the shop I do have a 7mm reamer (.270 )
I think is the size


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Reamers are not expensive but
The boring head I wanted and the cutters for valves are
but my boss wouldn't let me get unless I could show more than one use for it
He almost bought the boring head though cause we could have used a more rigid style than the two we have
.270 is 5 and a half thou off from 7mm.
 
J-Rod10 said:
.270 is 5 and a half thou off from 7mm.
yes thankyou

If I recall my guide hole was .274
before driving into head
Now they are at .273
I'm using pin gauges .274 won't go
.273 goes
I have to ream holes anyways
if I don't have correct reamer size
We have tooling fastener supply next door so I can get same day
But I want to wait till new valves come so I can measure for sure
How close tolerance overall am I looking at trying to achieve ??
I'll have to go back to my service manual



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ecb289b5ec9635532c2668f80b169c67.jpg
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Finally got my forks
K6cb450 33mm
Wow they are so much beefier than stock 31mm
c0cd5f12a80cb9f534e6ab93b06780e3.jpg

Had to grind down the steering lock
To fit the bottom triple and need a few wheel spacers but it looks so much better
I feel much better
And I have cl fork lowers so I can retain the drums up front too
Which I know people would advise disk are better yes
But I want the look to stay with the drums and scrambler high pipes
Mine was a cl360
 
onefromexile said:
yes thankyou

If I recall my guide hole was .274
before driving into head
Now they are at .273
I'm using pin gauges .274 won't go
.273 goes
I have to ream holes anyways
if I don't have correct reamer size
We have tooling fastener supply next door so I can get same day
But I want to wait till new valves come so I can measure for sure
How close tolerance overall am I looking at trying to achieve ??
I'll have to go back to my service manual



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464419769b8f3148fcdec4e24928c0ec.jpg
ecb289b5ec9635532c2668f80b169c67.jpg
9b5df81d352b4313495e3dc0065c6d32.jpg

Finally got my forks
K6cb450 35mm
Wow they are so much beefier than stock 33mm
c0cd5f12a80cb9f534e6ab93b06780e3.jpg

Had to grind down the steering lock
To fit the bottom triple and need a few wheel spacers but it looks so much better
I feel much better
And I have cl fork lowers so I can retain the drums up front too
Which I know people would advise disk are better yes
But I want the look to stay with the drums and scrambler high pipes
Mine was a cl360
I do think I'll go clubman bars
I'm not sure about clip ons for this because the tank comes pretty close for clips


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onefromexile said:
I do think I'll go clubman bars
I'm not sure about clip ons for this because the tank comes pretty close for clips


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Maybe another layer of cloth the strengthen but the shape and look I wanted is there
Will be going with clip ons
I just can't get past how top heavy clubman bars make the front look tall



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