My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

The flywheel remover from bike bandit sure made this job easy. So I found out that one of the screws on the rotor is loose and ground down. Is this the reason the starter isn't engaging the engine or do I need to keep digging?
I kept digging. Aren't there supposed to be springs in here? The three rollers fell out but no springs. Maybe a previous owner took it apart and didn't put it back together correctly?
I'm having a hard time finding a diagram of how this goes together. Could someone point me to a site or image?

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1923.JPG
    IMG_1923.JPG
    1.7 MB · Views: 221
Not too sure which loose screw you are talking about, but no, that is not the problem. The sprag clutch should have springs and little caps that put a small tension against the rollers. If they are not there, the clutch will not work. When you have it together, you can work it by hand, (without the chain) and see how it works only in one direction of rotation.
 
Thanks. I found a diagram and see where the springs are supposed to be. It looks like two are missing and one is stuck down in the hole. Any recommended methods of dislodging it?


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
It shouldn't be this difficult. I have destroyed two picks trying to get this cap out of the starter clutch. I was able to use an eyeglass screw in the center hole to use to pry the cap out a little. It just won't come out.



Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1924.JPG
    IMG_1924.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 223
Omg I finally got it out. Ordered a new kit from common motor, the only place I was able to find springs and caps for my cl360.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1925.JPG
    IMG_1925.JPG
    1.6 MB · Views: 218
My hypothesis was incorrect, the springs and caps were still in there. I got one out but the other two won't budge. I've soaked the whole thing in lubricant but the only tool I can fit down in the holes is my dogs tooth cleaner, the kind dentists use, but it just bends and breaks. So I found a replacement on eBay for $16 and ordered that. There were only 2 left so I got lucky. It's too bad, I wish I could find a way to save this part from the garbage.
 
Likely the part has been pretty hot and cooked the oil and so trapping the parts. You can try soaking the assembly in MEK (for a week) and then heating it up (as hot as you can) with a propane torch. Likely the solvent will loosen things up, and the heat will expand the wheel enough to let go the trapped bits. But if you already have a replacement, it is no longer a problem.
 
If you open the peined over edge you can push them out dead easy. Looks like they were damaged causing the sticking?
 
Could be. I got the new/used one in the mail today, installed it and the starter works! I'm so excited. I bought this bike two years ago and didn't do anything through the winters. It feels like I'm very close to getting this running. Big thanks to PJ for rebuilding my carbs and everybody on here for your help.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Awesome! Fixing the broken stuff can be satisfying but there are times when just replacing it with a known working part can mean moving the project along. Glad it worked out
 
Next steps question: Now that the motor turns over I checked the points and they are creating spark. the spark plugs create spark. So is my next step to hook up the gas lines and see what happens? Should the exhaust be attached at this point? I was thinking it would be easier to adjust the carbs with the exhaust off but it won't run the same with it off, right? This is new territory for me. PJ rebuilt my carbs (thanks again).
Also, I don't have the kickstart installed correctly. I have the manual picture but I can't seem to get the ball bearing back in place. The flat head screw that tightens it down is stripped so I can't back it out. I suppose I could use a grinder to make another groove. Does that screw need to come out to get the bearing back in place? Any tips here are welcome, too.
Thanks
 
Put the exhaust on, carb tuning will be dependent on exhaust. As for that flathead screw for the kickstart ball I assume you mean the detent that keeps it locked in ready or stow position, I had to cut a new grove... that screw is hollow so dont go crazy
 
There is a bearing and spring, iirc, in the kickstarter. You definitely want to have the exhaust on. In fact, you want everything from the air filters to the end of the exhaust in place for syncing and tuning.
 
It's splayed out. The pockets should be much closer to the frame, and the rubber is pretty tight in the pockets.
 
Well how in the hell am I going to squeeze it back together safely and evenly? I've never heard of this happening.
What if I wrap a wratcheting strap around it, tighten it up and let it sit overnight?
Is it possible to break welds or crack it?
On a positive note I got the bike running for a couple minutes. I had to play with the throttle to keep it running. Tomorrow night I'll start adjusting points and carb screws and whatever other YouTube videos I can watch.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom