My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

As with all paint, it's all in the prep work.
If you want your engine to look that good you need to get it CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
 
And if you don't feel like scrubbing for hours and have a bit of money. Vapor blasting is amazing.
 

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The stock Honda motor color is called Cloud Silver. It's available on line and oddly enough at Honda Equipment Dealers (the lawn mower and boat guys)! http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/honda/H-08707-NH35M.html Honda also has a Cloud Silver Metallic that was used as a car color. A friend of mine used it on his Comstar wheels and they really look good.

I used a much cheaper and near matching Rustoleum color on my Wife' CT90 hubs. I don't remember the paint code and don't have the can anymore.
 
i think i've got the cleaning part taken care of. I've been scrubbing on this engine for weeks trying to get a uniform look. Thanks for all the input. I'm going to buy some high heat paint tonight and get started.
 
For the cases, you're OK with regular enamel. They don't get hot enough to need high temp. Head and jugs should be high temp though.
 

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Thanks. I have half a bike now. I made a electronics tray that will even hold the battery. But I'm concerned about clearance with the back tire. How much should be there?


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If you pull the springs off of the shocks, they should fully compress and rest on the bushings. That's how much room you'll want.
 
You don't have enough I wouldn't think based on the photos. Bottom line, the suspension needs to bottom-out before your tire hits the tray. How many inches of clearance do you have now? How long are the shocks bolt to bolt?
 
It doesn't work as well doing a Scrambler with the cafe seat/hoop because of the clearance. In most cases on a Scrambler, the hoop/rear of the frame angle upward and further back to give the extra length. Here's a 70's XL250. The fender essentially passes through the frame.

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Sonreir suggested removing the springs from the shocks which seems like a lot of work so I measured the exposed piston or whatever its called which is 2.5 inches. I removed the battery tray and measured between the wheel and the rear hoop and i have two inches. I probably lost an inch of clearance with just the tire tread compared to the bald tires that were on there. I highly doubt these shocks will ever bottom out, i can barely compress them at all with all my weight. So i'll have to change the battery tray completely. the frame is already powder coated so I can't change the rear hoop now so we'll see how it goes. thanks for all the info. live and learn.
 
We've all been there.

This is me, pretty much every time.
 

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djsmiles said:
So i'll have to change the battery tray completely. the frame is already powder coated so I can't change the rear hoop now so we'll see how it goes. thanks for all the info. live and learn.

That's the spirit man.. really. I've seen a lot of dudes on here argue about tire clearance and not take it seriously. Good on ya for taking it for what it is, learning and fixin it! Its always a bummer to back peddle on projects, but youll have a much better machine when you do.

Bike is looking great btw
 
I was having a hell of a time getting the rear brake put together today. The piece that connects to the rear wheel doesn't look like it's on all the way but it won't go any further. And where the brake pedal attaches won't go any further either and definitely doesn't look right. Any advise?


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In the first pic, the brake cam might be caught on something. You'll might need to open it all up again. Make sure the splined shaft passes fully through the hub before you button it back up.

The hole on the brake lever is for the switch, not the spring. The spring should sit on the underside of the pedal. Pic attached.
 

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I'm able to pull the cam? out and push it back in, is it supposed to be like that? And look what happened, the spring holder thing snapped off the frame.


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The rear brake cam will move in and out until you have the lever bolted on. That's what holds it in place. I usually attach the lever before mounting the rear wheel specifically because of that reason. You might be able to work it on without removing the rear wheel though.

And that thing that broke is for the breather/vent hoses. The brake spring doesn't have a tab it goes into. It just rests against the frame and the lever if I remember correctly. You might have the spring on backwards?
 
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