This friggin clutch I can't adjust... argh...

I don't know why I can't get this clutch adjusted right. '71 Kaw F8 250 enduro. Typical with the cable adjuster in the middle:
And then the typical outside screw/locknut
And internal cam


Normally on my other bikes like this you adjust the middle adjuster for slack, seat the screw, back out 1/4 turn and lock it. I have two problems: the clutch stays slightly engaged with the lever pulled all the way in, and it slips under high power output from the engine when riding. It's perplexing to me, usually it's one or the other when not adjusted right.

Some of these have a ball inside which can cause these symptoms but mine does not.


The manual I have incredulously does not outline the clutch adjustment procedure. Before I take the cover off to inspect the clutch itself I figured I'd just ask to see if there's anything I could be missing with the adjustment procedure.

Thanks in advance.


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Ok, so I got impatient and tore into it. Fuck it, right?

I've seen pictures of the moon with less craters:
This one was missing a gigantic section of disc material

Now, on to the steel plates. Some have some pitting so I'm gonna replace those too. Don't wanna chew up a new set of plates.



Here's where I list all my bikes:
'71 Kaw 250 Bison
'81 KZ750 cafe
'94 XR250L
2014 Yamaha Bolt

In progress: '68 CL350

Warped clutch plate maybe?
It would explain the dragging when clutch is pulled in, and why you can't seem to adjust far enough to disengage properly without going to far and causing slippage.




Edit: you got impatient and beat me to it hahaha

But shit, there you go

Also, the face of the pusher and corresponding surface on the spring plate. I know the clutch was dragging for at least a little while, I'm not sure if it needs replaced or not.
I'm not sure if that area in the spring plate is supposed to be a little recessed or if it's from wear.


Here's where I list all my bikes:
'71 Kaw 250 Bison
'81 KZ750 cafe
'94 XR250L
2014 Yamaha Bolt

In progress: '68 CL350

friction plates are toast. The spring plate looks fine.

TheCoffeeGuy said:

friction plates are toast. The spring plate looks fine.

Click to expand...

Yup! I picked up new frictions for $72. The steels are sketchy. There was definitely an issue at some point with a piece of metal bouncing around in there, there's some radial grooves in the center. There's also a little pitting and rust, along with some dings along the outer edges on several. Luckily there's a vintage Kaw place by me, I'm gonna take the steels in to see how many need replaced. At $10/ea I'm hoping not too many.


Here's where I list all my bikes:
'71 Kaw 250 Bison
'81 KZ750 cafe
'94 XR250L
2014 Yamaha Bolt

In progress: '68 CL350

Can't figure this damn thing out. There's a thing called a clutch wheel plate sits at the back before you start putting plates in. It seems like it takes up too much space. With everything in there the last metal disc doesn't fit on the toothed drum. The pushrod plunger also doesn't contact the spring plate and the space is exactly the thickness of the wheel plate. The parts fiche shows a "wheel plate" that looks like another metal clutch plate, however when I search the part number it comes up with the piece I have. I'm not sure what the heck is going on but I can't get the damn thing together now. Wtf.


Here's where I list all my bikes:
'71 Kaw 250 Bison
'81 KZ750 cafe
'94 XR250L
2014 Yamaha Bolt

In progress: '68 CL350

Looks like your standard clutch, right?

Except at the very bottom I have this thick aluminum ring:



That part number corresponds to the number/position on the fiche, but the drawing does not look like the ring I have. The piece identified as the clutch wheel plate is #11. While that part number is not listed here, the diagram on the fiche I have is exactly the same and lists the part number on that (and other) eBay auctions.


Here's where I list all my bikes:
'71 Kaw 250 Bison
'81 KZ750 cafe
'94 XR250L
2014 Yamaha Bolt

In progress: '68 CL350