Cb360 not charging after combo reg/rect install

If your getting 13v at the body of R/R it isn't grounded.
Did you clean paint off frame on mounting hole?
Honda run ground leads for a reason, I always run ground from battery to coils, headlight and motor to make sure everything is connected. If any part is insulated (usually with paint) it can act as a big capacitor and cause some major problems (very very rare but I have seen it happen)
The voltage spike produced will blow things up, normally the bulbs fail first
 
Looks like wiring is correct if that's how you had it in the schematic. There is no need for the white/yellow wires to go up to the front of the bike and back since we have to have lights on at all times, that was put in years before the 360s came out to help minimize charging current so you didn't fry a battery. Some of the earlier bikes didn't even have regulators, they just ran rectified voltage right into the battery. On my 450 I went and tied the coils together at the actual stator, just to clean up the excess. 360 will be getting that treatment one of these days.

I concur with PJ, I had issues with PAINT and shitty crimp ends in the beginning with my Kolher unit on my 360. I ended up having to solder the wires from the harness connection to the unit because the bike vibrated enough to rattle them loose. I have 2 units employed now on both my bikes and they both charge very well.

There is also documentation on the thread at Honda Twins about these regulators, apparently there are some Chinese made versions that are substandard and tend to not work or short internally and cause bunrt wires. I got both of mine at the local John Deere dealer.
 
My 360 charges great with a Suzuki Intruder Rec/reg 8)
I know it's charging as R/R gets hot, may have to use higher wattage headlight bulb so I use the alternator output 'power' instead of converting it to heat ;D
 
Yeah I'm pretty sure I blew the rr when I had it hooked up w/o a good ground. Got a new one and will make sure to connect the ground before all other connections. Right now the motor is out though so it may be a little while till I get to that


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It seems to work. Though I have only ridden a couple miles because my front brake is binding. I rebuilt the master cylinder but it's still leaking. So I'm looking for a more modern replacement master


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I've ridden the bike for about 40 miles now and it seems to be charging well. The battery is staying at a consistent 12.4 volts. What a relief! I ended up getting the GY6 reg/rect which seems to work great. I did make sure to test continuity to find out what each connection went to since there was no diagram that came with the unit.
 
I noticed that the other day looking at the wife's scooter... That reg/rec unit looks about right, may have to borrow it for a test run some time.
 
I got some more time to work on the bike. The new rr seems to be working good but the charge still reads low. 12.6v with the headlight on at 5000 rpms. I've done a lot of studying to try to grasp electronics lately. I ended up buying a new battery since the old battery had gotten really low at one point and it seemed to lose a charge easily. Now that I know the battery is not the issue and i know my way around a multimeter a little better, I went through the fault finding guide to diagnose the charging system. I got down to B and got stuck. This is where I'm hoping someone can help.

It says to find the black switched power wire going into the rr but there isn't a switched power wire going into the rr. There's only the yellow and pink from the alternator into the rr and the green and red wires going out of the rr. Should I be testing one of the yellow or pink wires for the 0.2v? I did connect the black meter wire to the black switched wire in the harness and the red meter lead to the battery positive and got a measure of 0.8v, which is way more than the 0.2 v that the fault finding guide recommends. But I'm not sure that's the correct wire to check. Any input is appreciated!
 
The black wire on the OLD system was a "Sense" wire so to speak, it let the regulator see what the system voltage was and allowed it to act accordingly. The new system just reads the voltage of the battery and uses that to determine what it needs to do.

You should test as follows. Unplug the alternator, set multimeter to AC voltage, connector meter leads to PINK and YELLOW. Start bike, should have 12-15 volts at idle and over 40 at 3000 RPM. Next move lead from YELLOW to WHITE and test again, should have same numbers as above.

IF that all reads out OK, then shut the bike off, plug alternator back in to harness and start bike. AT the BATTERY with headlight OFF, you should have around 12.5-13 volts AT idle and between 14-15 ish volts at 3000+ RPM.

Two things I can think off if you are still having problems, CHECK the GROUND at the new R/R unit MAKE sure it is good. Without a good ground the battery will not charge. Second thing, what size of HEADLIGHT are you using wattage wise? They WILL NOT like a standard 55/60 watt bulb, you need somewhere around HALF that. The total charge capacity for a small Honda twin is around 150-160 watts just FYI.
 
Thanks frogman! I'll go through your steps within the next couple days when I have time to work on the bike again.

To make sure I understand your connections correctly...When I check the volts coming out of the alternator, I would, for example, connect the black from mm to pink and red from mm to yellow, correct? or do I connect black to ground and red to each wire coming out of the alternator one at a time?

My headlight is a 35w h4 bulb so I think I should be good in that area.


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Took some measurements:

Alternator:
Pink to yellow acv
20v @ idle
44v @ 3k rpms
Pink to white acv
19v @ idle
38v @ 3k rpms

battery measurements (headlight off):
12.4v static
12.6v @ idle
13.3v @ 3k rpms
13.4v @ 4k
13.6v @ 5k

There are a lot of spliced ground wires and only one spot where they connect to the frame. Going to see if cleaning that up helps


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Looks a little low for ' no load' voltage or were you measuring with reg/rect in circuit?
The charge point is about right though, running on battery below 3K is normal
 
Yeah it may be a little low because that was after I had been doing some tests. And yes the rr was in circuit
 
The AC output shouldn't change with battery voltage, the magnets whizzing past the coils are constant output.
Test should be done at 5,000 rpm though, that will give significantly higher output (70v+)
 
I charged the battery till my trickle charger said it was charged, checked the battery and it was at 12.8 volts. Started the bike and revved a little to keep it idling and it was at 13.5 volts at idle and 14.5 volts at 5k. Turned the bike off and the battery stayed at 13.5 volts. I don't know what the heck is going on with this thing. I'm going to check the battery later to see if it's gone down

Edit:
Just checked the battery again (about 7 hours later) and its at 12.9 volts with no load.
 
It isn't really the battery voltage you need to check, amps will be a much better indication of whats going on.
The measured voltage at battery when fully charged really shouldn't change much, 14.5V shows regulator is working so charging system has to be working.
Amps are what charge the battery though.
Disconnect a battery lead and put ammeter in circuit (if you have a 10A scale on meter it will be fine)
DO NOT USE ELECTRIC STARTER
Kickstart bike and see what amp reading you get, probably around 0.5~1.5. If your getting anything at all at idle speed it's all good
It's a good idea to warm engine up before fitting ammeter into the circuit
 
I checked amps and am getting 2.5a with my leads between ground wire and neg battery terminal. Took my headlight apart and it looks like DCC actually gave me a 60w headlight instead of the 35w that I ordered. I rode around yesterday with the headlight unplugged (since I don't have a headlight switch) and the bike seemed to charge well for a while but then dropped down to 12.2 volts after a few minutes of riding. Does that sound like the rr maybe just got warm since I wasn't running the headlight? I'm gonna connect my 35w HID headlight this evening and go for a ride and see if the charging holds steady. I guess I should have double checked the headlight before installing it. Lesson learned there.


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2.5A is pretty high, R/R will get HOT trying to dissipate that much power, shows charging system working real well.
60W headlight is ~5A so you would be 'losing' 2.5A while engine was running with bulb connected
35w is around 3A so break even around 3K
 
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