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Well I'm moving along now, I have prepared the frame for the new swingarm pivot/engine mount brackets. I'll be glad to get the back end done so that I can remove the engine and get that stripped and rebuilt.
Thanks. I would like to get the motor up around 60hp. I was going to have a go at porting it myself but I doubt if I'll have the time. I really haven't looked into whats available or what's possible from these motors yet. I guess it depends on what you're willing to pay! I don't really intend to spend a fortune on the motor. I do plan on building my own pipes though. I really don't like the 70's style (three or four cones with a chunk of 3 1/2" tube in the middle) expansion chambers that much.
If you decide to send it out for porting let me know. I do that type of work. But tractability is a must for street riding. You don't really want a peaky motor for the street with the stock gearbox. With a peaky motor first gear is so short it becomes pretty much worthless.
If you decide to send it out for porting let me know. I do that type of work. But tractability is a must for street riding. You don't really want a peaky motor for the street with the stock gearbox. With a peaky motor first gear is so short it becomes pretty much worthless.
Johnu, excellent ideas and work. I also used the FZR mono-shock S/A for an XS650 project back in 02/03 they're great and cheap and easy to find. I set the front rake at 24 Degrees which is the same as the doner forks (Yamaha R6) You mentioned 29 down to 26 degrees how did you arrive at that number?
The modern 636 triple clamps have a great deal less offset than the old T500 this along with the de-raking will also shorten the front end of the wheelbase.
The 17" wheels, how wide are your wheels and what tire sizes will you use?
I've always been more interested in the chassis than engines. This is a great project.
Cheers, 50gary
Gary, I'll be honest with you I was going to use 24degrees of rake which I think is the same as the 636 that the doner forks are from, however I got a little concerned as I thought that maybe it would be a little drastic and thought I would go to 26. I am still up in the air with the exact specs but I am thinking I will go back to my original plan and use 24*. The problem is that with using the 17" wheels and the slightly shorter forks it will mean that I will end up with about 8.5* on the swingarm and wanted to use 6* thats even with a slightly lower swingarm pivot point (in line with countershaft center).
To some extent these figures are seat of the pants ideas but I am trying to mimick modern sport bike specs to some degree. I wish I had a cad drawing of a T500 frame so I could lay everything out on paper first. I too am more into the frame building rather than the engines.
For my 17" wheels I am going to use my KTM supermoto wheels which are 3.5 x 17f and 5 x 17r, I will have to change the rear to a 4.25" though because of the chain position. I am looking at moving the counter sprocket out a little though.
I am not planing to use the linkage shock that came wtih the arm but go linless instead.
Sounds like a good plan to me. I did much the same on my XS650 project. My idea was to simply transfer the front geometry from the R6 to my project that way the trail would be the same. I used the R6 wheel and brake set up as well it's great BTW.
In the rear I used the FZR S/A full width but milled the axle slots 1/2" longer for greater length and adjustment range. I have about 8/9 degrees of swingarm angle. I figured the more the better as most sport bikes have 12 to 13 degrees. My S/A pivot is 13.5" from ground. The rear is mono-shock via the FZR linkage ( 2/1 ratio) and my frame pivot points.
I used a Fox Twin Clicker rear shock that I made into ride height adjustable and a correct spring rate. I also used a SV650 rear wheel that just happens to match the spoke style and color of the R6 front. The rear is 17" x 4.5" and required the counter sprocket to be offset .375" and that turned out to be fairly easy. In the rear I milled the sprocket carrier by the same amount .375" (along with the shortening of the sprocket bolts) that adds up to .750 total for the left side therefore 1.5" for the entire wheel width. The SV wheel is 4.5" and the Stock XS wheel was 3.0" The chain path (520 O ring for extra clearance) is good and no rubbing. The tire size is 17" x 160 Metzeler Sportec. Most of the frame (chromoly) is new my design with extensive bracing and the bike only weighs 350#. This was also my goal to convert an older bike to as much like a tube frame Sportbike as I could. My bike doesn't wobble or shake at speed so I'm quite pleased. I hope this exchange is taken as a fun conversation between enthusiasts and not as a puffed up brag. Sometimes on the internet people get all bent. My brother has a T500 we are preping for AHRMA so I'll watch your build carefully.
Cheers, 50gary
Hey Gary, this is all good stuff. I like to hear from people with all this great info. Sounds like we are on the same wave length with our ideas. Maybe with replies and suggestions from others on the board and people like yourself, I and others can make less mistakes when we hear what you guys have done in the past. I would like to see a pic of your XS650 if you have one available.
My biggest issue is that I don't have a machine shop available to me anymore as I was laid off from my job (mechanical designer) where I could use all the machines and equipment after work. Paying someone to machine stuff for me is irritating and of course costly.
Well, I decided to remove the motor from the frame today so that I can cut off the center stand brackets. Two observations; first the engine is a little heavier than I was expecting. Second the frame is a little lighter than I expected.
Does anyone know where I could find a universal side stand that I can adapt to this bike?
Looks like it's going to be a bugger of a job cutting the head tube off without causing to much damge to the rest of the frame. I'll remove the stiffener gussets first then go from there.
Do you have jig or some kind of fixture to help with the alignment? In what order do you plan to do the frame mods? Do you have a reference point once you cut? I agree the T500 frame around the head stock is a mess so to say.
Cheers, 50gary
Looks like it's going to be a bugger of a job cutting the head tube off without causing to much damage to the rest of the frame. I'll remove the stiffener gussets first then go from there.
I must have missed something along the way. Why are you planning on such drastic surgery? Raise the rear end, drop the front a little, reduce fork offset and I suspect you will end up with as much rake and trail as you can use.
I'd measure things first and see what you actually need to change. This is one analysis that may help to put things in perspectiive
Do you have jig or some kind of fixture to help with the alignment? In what order do you plan to do the frame mods? Do you have a reference point once you cut? I agree the T500 frame around the head stock is a mess so to say.
Cheers, 50gary
No jig yet but I will be constructing something. First I will be installing the new swing arm pivot brackets (before removing the headstock), ref points will be headstock, bottom of chassis rails and rear engine mounting point (engine will be in frame bolted to front two mounting points). Once I have the swing arm pivots in place they will then become the ref point for relocating the headstock. This will obviously not be an overnight job. There will be lots of checking and leveling and shimming, aligning and realigning (I am a bit of a perfectionist). I enjoy a challenge!
I must have missed something along the way. Why are you planning on such drastic surgery? Raise the rear end, drop the front a little, reduce fork offset and I suspect you will end up with as much rake and trail as you can use.
I'd measure things first and see what you actually need to change. This is one analysis that may help to put things in perspectiive
Teaser, not sure if you have seen my list of mods or not, but I am going to be using kawi 636 forks and yamaha fzr swingarm. Great link you attached, I have seen it before and it certainly emphasizes the effects of the various adjustments that can be made. However I imagine you would have to jack up the rear end substantially to get the rake angle from 29* to 24*. I am in the process of trying to get all the chasssis dimensions so I can create a cad drawing and go through the geometry that way.
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