That's got CV's? Take a #2 phillips screwdriver, heat the tip with a torch until cherry red and plunge it into your eye. It will hurt less. Really. Bikes with CVs have airboxes. Bikes with slide needle carbs have pods. Even Mark Dobeck, former owner of Dynajet, cops to a loss of midrange using his kits.
And for the other eye heat a 3/4" drill bit chucked up in an air drill ...
I can get BS34's to almost work on the 998-1100 with one serious caveat . They will pull hard with the throttle arbitrarily pinned OR they will mix fuel cleanly at part throttle cruise . Pick one I don't know how to give you both . Mark Dobeck and I went back and forth for most of a summer getting several of my customers bikes and my 998 urban terror two wheeler running right . The customers are probably still ****ed even though I neither recommended nor supplied this serious impediment to performance . In the end I knew neither was right (thanx for the flash runs Ron !) But the one that was the best and closest to right got me the most grief . That guy thinks I'm an idiot and in ten years hasn't wasted an opportunity to say so . Funny that the last two guys to touch it asked how I was able to get it so close . The one that isn't so good , that guy thinks I'm magic .
just a partial list
various attempts at
springs
needles
needle jets with and without discharge shields
pilots
mains
main air bleed
air horns within the air filters
closer to or further away from the head
adjustable cam sprockets
different headers ....
All because in one case the owner wanted to look like all the other cool kids
and the other thought it was a pain to get the carbs in and out with the stock aribox
coincidently both of these mental midgets went from 35-36 mpg to 30-31mpg and might have gained a couple of hp on top at the expense of having me spend untold hours filling a huge hole around 4k .
So I was asked recently if I would jet another 998 for "pods" ( is it that hard to say individual air filters ? really?) good thing I kept my notes .
Sure I would . With an eddy current dyno and by the hour ...
now for some straight info about BS34's and a Z750 . if you want more look up BS and more BS in my earlier posts
Only after valve adjust ...
The pilot needs to show lean misfire within 1 1/4 from seat and rich misfire before 3 3/4 turns out from seat . Anything else outside this and inaccurate metering will most likely cover up all your hard work .
Then , Check the sync again ...
The stock needles are fine for all but full on racing . Why people insist on a "jet kit" is beyond me . I had many conversations over a period of several years with Mark Dobeck about individual filters on constant velocity , diaphragm carbs . Here are the high an low points of that discussion .
Great full throttle response , great part throttle cruise , pick one . You just don't get both .
The larger the volume within the individual filter the better your result .
Finding a velocity stack that will fit over the carb and inside the filter is never a bad thing until its opening is shrouded or interfered with by the filter .
Most (even dynojet's long running offering for cv34's ) needles supplied with jet kits are aluminum for ease of production and not steel for durability .
You really need to find out what the stock needle was and then look for it in the SUDCO catalog .
Find the main air bleed/jet on the inlet to the carb . This will be a fixed brass jet that unmistakably leads to the main down well that the emulsion tube , main jet , and main discharge to the throttle bore reside in . Remember this is a fixed jet and difficult (not impossible) to change . Small diameter changes in this jet can cover the usual giant hole between idle/transfer and the beginning of the midrange .
Likewise for the holes in the bottom of the main slide . remember small adjustments and accurate adjustments . A slide can be easily ruined . ( yes enlarge the hole slightly )
Paul was right I do have some experience with individual filters on CV carbs . None of it good .
but as a baseline for stock internals and 1000cc "j" engine
http://www.sudco.com/CatalogJPG/126.jpg and a call to sudco about the next richer mikuni needle up from your 4cb6 ( look it up at kawasaki I could be senile) 4cb7 Canada (has multiple circlip grooves ) The as stock Y-8 (again look it up) should be sufficient needle jet for all but "why arn't you using flat slides"
sooo
40 pilot
127.5 main
open main air bleed .025 to .035"
open the hole in the bottom of the slide a like amount
start with the needle all the way down and use .015" washers as needed to lift or get the Canadian part . (you did junk the no name needles , didn't you ? )
If at all possible find the larger volume tapered oval filters .
If it won't clean out at all it's obvious , down jet
If it just won't pull redline use this simple trick . Cover the filters with cotton gym socks . No change ? it's probably something else , starts to pull on top ? you're probably lean .
Make damn sure that the fuel/float level and the needle valve/seat are near perfect as possible .
Get rid of that abortifact of a vacuum petcock and spend a dollar on pingle .
You don't need the emissions crap either . Block off the valve cover and remove the air valve .
keep in mind that the 127.5 main I used was because of a free flowing head and a Basanni that had little if no restriction . Honestly if you find yourself much over 120 you're doing it wrong
Now go adjust your valves before you do anything
A bit dated but the process is the same even if the carb and displacement are different . PM me if you have specific questions . I'll be more than willing to run up your phone bill or run minutes of your plan if you get stuck stoned or stupid . Just don't consider taking up my time with carb questions unless the valves are adjusted correctly and the timing is spot on (applies to points mostly but there are cases where the timing/coils of a electronic ignition can be crap).
I won't even talk carbs with you until the above is done and verified it's just a waste of your time and mine.
I go back to my 70's race PrOn collection a continue to be a grumpy old man
~kop