Am I the Pontius Pilate of this CX500?

If those flanges are cast then machined, I probably wouldn't use them either, too much localised stress around mounting bolts in my opinion although spoke holes should be fine.
If they are 6061 T6, about 1/4" thick then hard anodised they will be MUCH stronger than the cast hubs 'everyone' used from 60's to 2000+ (and still use today)
7075 would be even stronger either will bend rather than crack. I would make my own if I was in the market for a par as I would then know exactly what has been done and the material.
Spoked wheels will need checking after 100 and 500 miles then will probably be fine for next 50,000 or more miles (in my experience of aluminium alloy rims)
MX and Enduro bikes are the only ones that can need wheel maintainance every week / month / ride( when 'used properly' ;) )
 
Cx 500 is the most versatile, easy, pleasant to work on motorcycle ever made. Everthing is accessible... way the frame is built around the engine. I have had 3/4 of these bikes. I move on to kawa gt750 project now as I prefer a shaft driven bike. I always look back and think how pleasant a cx is to work with!


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I agree morgs88. I have not had experience working on any other bikes. This is my first....but I'm having a hoot of a time working on this one.
 
Parts are so easy to get hold of. What are turning your cx into? Cafe/tracker??


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The battery box.

This is one supplied by CRK, and it's designed to go under the engine in place of the H box. It's designed for a Lithium ion battery which can be turned on its side, and has a bracket for the started solenoid rubber mounts.

My knees are not as good as once were, so I'm trying to keep things that may need service access as high as possible.

There is a bit of room under the seat support, so I decided to modify the box to fit there instead. In either case, I'm going to have to extend the leads to the starter motor and find a new route for the secondary loom.

111030-010118185648.jpeg


I'm drilling some holes in the seat support, and will use a threaded rod with nuts on each side for the rear mounts in the battery box. This will allow box to swivel down and give access to fit battery.

111030-010118185718.jpeg


But then I realized that the box ended up too deep under the seat support, and did not allow placement of started solenoid in bracket.

So I made another hole. What's the saying?......measure once, and cut twice?

111030-010118185749.jpeg


That's better. I also welded some tabs to allow back of box to be fixed to existing holes in loop frame.

111030-010118185827.jpeg


111030-010118185854.jpeg


It's not invisible....but it ain't ugly.

111030-010118185924.jpeg


And that's the last thing to do before painting or powdercoating frame. My budget is starting to get a little thin after all the goodies I bought for this build, so I'm off to the powdercoaters for a quote, but if too expensive, will consider painting myself. Painting's not my strong suite.....but look at how well Jackson Pollock did!
 
Odontologist said:
You have a build thread?
I don’t have one no...
I am never very clued up with phones. Have taken plenty of pics of the new project though


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Odontologist said:
The battery box.

This is one supplied by CRK, and it's designed to go under the engine in place of the H box. It's designed for a Lithium ion battery which can be turned on its side, and has a bracket for the started solenoid rubber mounts.

My knees are not as good as once were, so I'm trying to keep things that may need service access as high as possible.

There is a bit of room under the seat support, so I decided to modify the box to fit there instead. In either case, I'm going to have to extend the leads to the starter motor and find a new route for the secondary loom.

111030-010118185648.jpeg


I'm drilling some holes in the seat support, and will use a threaded rod with nuts on each side for the rear mounts in the battery box. This will allow box to swivel down and give access to fit battery.

111030-010118185718.jpeg


But then I realized that the box ended up too deep under the seat support, and did not allow placement of started solenoid in bracket.

So I made another hole. What's the saying?......measure once, and cut twice?

111030-010118185749.jpeg


That's better. I also welded some tabs to allow back of box to be fixed to existing holes in loop frame.

111030-010118185827.jpeg


111030-010118185854.jpeg


It's not invisible....but it ain't ugly.

111030-010118185924.jpeg


And that's the last thing to do before painting or powdercoating frame. My budget is starting to get a little thin after all the goodies I bought for this build, so I'm off to the powdercoaters for a quote, but if too expensive, will consider painting myself. Painting's not my strong suite.....but look at how well Jackson Pollock did!
What size battery are you using? How much do you boys pay for the lithium batteries and chargers over in oz


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morgs88 said:
What size battery are you using? How much do you boys pay for the lithium batteries and chargers over in oz


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I believe it's a YT9B-4 150x69x105mm. Haven't bought one yet so don't know price.
 
you may create problems for yourself and risk stator damage

YT9B-4 only offers 115cca

cx500 should have 180 min 200cca preferred

its a 8 amp hour and a cx is supposed to have a 14ah
 
EarthX ETX18B ?.....not cheap...but then...its probably the most important component in the bike.
 
To be fair these gel batteries have a awesome output for a little battery. Long as stator/regulator/rectifier doing its job as long with manget generator and juices battery back up. Shouldn’t matter too much what size you use really? Any doubts bang it on trickle before a ride day before


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its starting it without hurting theh starter

and if its o low a amp it may hurt the stator
 
Yep. I'll get the ETX12A and thinking of upgrading reg/rect to a MOFSET to better protect circuit.
 
cxman said:
its starting it without hurting theh starter

and if its o low a amp it may hurt the stator

Starter will probably be fine, the starter relay will 'rattle' if battery can't keep up and contacts burn away. (When battery is marginal there is enough power to close relay contacts, when starter motor engages the sudden current drop makes relay 'drop out'' and start all over again) Due to the internal 'stop bar' relay can still sound OK but cannot make electrical contact
Problem is usually the initial starting current. On an inline 4 between 600~1000cc it usually starts around 70~90 amps then stabilises as motor is turning over and needs about 35~50 amps.
115 CCA 'should' in theory be plenty to start a CX500, but, slightest issue (or even cold start) can be enough to drain battery. Having an OFF switch for headlight will lower draw by at least 5 amps. Fitting LED's 'everywhere else' will give plenty of charge after bike is running. I forget if CX is 'star' or 'delta' wound,
( I think 'star' as it's 'better' for high (3,000+) rpm applications )
 
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