1978 CB550k. Antigravity 8cell Lithium battery (brand new - no over discharge issues). OEM electronics and charging system. Wiring was shortened, cleaned up, run under tank. Electronics moved to under seat. Started the build a year ago and just finished it today. Went to start bike today and it started easily and ran really well. After 8 minutes or so the headlight started getting dimmer and dimmer until the bike shut off, battery was dead. We checked the voltage right away and it was at 8volts. Put on the special tender/charger I bought, it was at 10.5volts after about 10-15 minutes. Does this sound like a wiring issue (possibly bad ground)? Or is it an electronics management issue (need modern charging system - possibly new regulator/rectifier)? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Electrical/Charging Issue - Please Help!
- Thread starter cgraham
- Start date
You guys should read the charging sticky by Sonreir in the electrical forum.
It can be tough to test a R/R, so I recommend going after the stator first. If that's working to within spec, just go ahead and replace the R/R. They can usually be had for a reasonable sum.
Always test your charging system with a fully charged battery...isn't that fun!
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It can be tough to test a R/R, so I recommend going after the stator first. If that's working to within spec, just go ahead and replace the R/R. They can usually be had for a reasonable sum.
Always test your charging system with a fully charged battery...isn't that fun!
Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
On bikes I run LiOn batteries on, I usually just change the whole charging system out. They are 30-40+ years old. Far older than the technology in the battery. It costs me less to change out a system than to fry a $150- $200 battery, buy a new battery after the first one fries, and a new charging system.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
550 has a very reliable charging system if everyything is connected up and working although the stock mechanical regulator is now very outdated and really should be changed for something newer. (max 'switching/sample rate' is about 60hz, electronic regulators are in the Khz or Mhz range)
It's an EMS system so needs battery voltage to power generator.
Regulator supplies power to field coil to create a magnet, rotor has 'fingers' to 'cut' magnetic field.
You do have power to field coil? ( the small coil in the middle with 2 wires) I have one 'on the shelf' in garage but ain't going looking for it now ;D
It puts out max of 120watts if I remember right? (about 9~10 amps), the ignition system needs about 3.5~4 amps so you don't have a lot in reserve.
You haven't fitted 60/55 or higher wattage H4 headlight? If so it won't charge at all until about 5,000 rpm and is just draining battery. Stock 12~14A/hr battery gives a few hours run time. Testing a R/R is dead easy, as long as you have a variable power supply capable of 13~15 volts (need very little amperage to switch even a mechanical regulator on and off)
It's an EMS system so needs battery voltage to power generator.
Regulator supplies power to field coil to create a magnet, rotor has 'fingers' to 'cut' magnetic field.
You do have power to field coil? ( the small coil in the middle with 2 wires) I have one 'on the shelf' in garage but ain't going looking for it now ;D
It puts out max of 120watts if I remember right? (about 9~10 amps), the ignition system needs about 3.5~4 amps so you don't have a lot in reserve.
You haven't fitted 60/55 or higher wattage H4 headlight? If so it won't charge at all until about 5,000 rpm and is just draining battery. Stock 12~14A/hr battery gives a few hours run time. Testing a R/R is dead easy, as long as you have a variable power supply capable of 13~15 volts (need very little amperage to switch even a mechanical regulator on and off)
