I have a CB360E and need help.
- Thread starter Johnnygonzoe
- Start date
Trevor May
Been Around the Block
That's an engine serial number. Have you lurked here before? There are already signs of some mods. Can you post lots of pics from different angles to help assessment? I see a loose wire hanging down under the tank. That's not a stock Petcock. It has a inline fuel filter, and looks like rearsets.
Getting the shop manual or a clymer and following the maintenance chapter will sure help you determine its condition. A couple spark plugs and oil, new gas as well. I follow recommendations here and use rotella T3 semi synthetic. It may just run. However I suspect you will need to clean carbs. You will also need a new battery.
Lots of good 360 knowledge around here. I'm sure someone will tag in.
Getting the shop manual or a clymer and following the maintenance chapter will sure help you determine its condition. A couple spark plugs and oil, new gas as well. I follow recommendations here and use rotella T3 semi synthetic. It may just run. However I suspect you will need to clean carbs. You will also need a new battery.
Lots of good 360 knowledge around here. I'm sure someone will tag in.
Johnnygonzoe
New Member
Thanks sonreir, and duchat. I Will post all the ones I have with me. I can post more when I get home any in specific off the bat? It looks like they cut out several wires on my wire harnedd undder the tank will get more pictures for you guys. So I got the new battery I will pick up new spark plugs later when I get home. I drained the oil and the gas. And for some reason my (+) battery connection only had one connection I thought they came with two connections?
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Trevor May
Been Around the Block
Do you know who worked on this bike? You don't owe them any favors right now. I see loose wiring everywhere. The air filters are gone. The mufflers look like unbaffled megaphones. The front foot pegs are missing and the rear brake was not modified to the shorter peg. It's really rusted. The side covers are gone. The key switch was relocated.i doubt that's the original tank and definitely not the seat. Those handlebars aren't stock either. Check your compression and also the gears. It may not be beyond salvaging but let's find out.
You should become an electrical expert. FAST. Those wires look daunting. I am jonesing to fix your wiring so bad right now.
Edit: the good news is that you can do whatever you want to it because you're not ruining a quality survivor. Someone did that for you.
Sonreir has helped me with my 360 many times, sometimes directly and other times just by reading his posts on other threads. It's been done several times here, and very good examples too. Lots to learn just by reading old build threads. You may be the next person to finish a quality 360 before me!
You should become an electrical expert. FAST. Those wires look daunting. I am jonesing to fix your wiring so bad right now.
Edit: the good news is that you can do whatever you want to it because you're not ruining a quality survivor. Someone did that for you.
Sonreir has helped me with my 360 many times, sometimes directly and other times just by reading his posts on other threads. It's been done several times here, and very good examples too. Lots to learn just by reading old build threads. You may be the next person to finish a quality 360 before me!
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Gotta start somewhere right?!? We'll be here to help 
I got a basket of extra CB360 parts so if you are missing something feel free to bug me, I'll go look in the box and see if I can help you out. Lots of little engine bits as the top end on that engine went. Hopefully you'll get that electrickery sorted soon. It looks to be daunting, but electrical really isn't that bad. Just a bit more time and patience than most of us are used to. Worst case, there are several harnesses for sale, best case, Sonreir can make you one
Looks like a newer Reg/rec in that tail section you have there. So some of the mods might actually be good!
Oil, go to your local dealer and pick up a gallon jug of honda/kawasaki/yamaha oil for about $22. 10/40 or 5/40 if you have it are typical for this bike. I think Sonreir likes the 5w40 semi synthetic if I remember an old post of someone elses...
Realistically any MOTORCYCLE specific 4 stroke oil in those ranges will work. Make sure it's motorcycle oil because car oil has friction modifiers that your clutch will not be happy about
I got a basket of extra CB360 parts so if you are missing something feel free to bug me, I'll go look in the box and see if I can help you out. Lots of little engine bits as the top end on that engine went. Hopefully you'll get that electrickery sorted soon. It looks to be daunting, but electrical really isn't that bad. Just a bit more time and patience than most of us are used to. Worst case, there are several harnesses for sale, best case, Sonreir can make you one Looks like a newer Reg/rec in that tail section you have there. So some of the mods might actually be good!
Oil, go to your local dealer and pick up a gallon jug of honda/kawasaki/yamaha oil for about $22. 10/40 or 5/40 if you have it are typical for this bike. I think Sonreir likes the 5w40 semi synthetic if I remember an old post of someone elses...
Realistically any MOTORCYCLE specific 4 stroke oil in those ranges will work. Make sure it's motorcycle oil because car oil has friction modifiers that your clutch will not be happy about
Johnnygonzoe
New Member
Okay I got the battery on the bike. Head light and rpm dash and mph dash work. I will go and pick up the spark plugs and oil tomorrow got home late and auto parts store and dealer we closed. So I think i know what some of the hanging wires are. I have no horn or turning signals. The rest of the wire I don't know.
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Trevor May
Been Around the Block
I looked up the regulator. It's from a late 70's kz Kawasaki and it rectifies and controls the voltage generated by the alternator. The big thing that the battery is wired up to is a high capacity relay and turns off the power to everything when a switch is turned off without lots of heavy wire running everywhere. The short stop thing is a 30A circuit breaker. Not sure what it protects but it's too high for anything stock.
Duchat said:
I'm not seeing a relay. Which pic is it?
For the rest of the electrical:
- Pic ending 604 is the front brake switch.
- Ending 947 looks like the chopped wires from left control: Turn signals, clutch switch, front running lights
- Nothing too out of whack in pic ending 000, just messy
- 346 is the chopped front brake wire.
- 122 is the matching wires from the left hand control chop in 947
Looks like the ignition switch isn't stock, either. Might be from a Kawi.
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Image 907 Sonreir. It's the "shortstop" circuit breaker. Those are usually used on reg/rec setups. Or at least when I converted one of my bikes to a non-shunting rectifier, the supplier suggested 30A So I don't see to much out of line with that size of a self-resetting circuit breaker....BUT what's it connected to? If it's something else, that's far too high, oh, unless maybe the starter, I've seen 30A in those quite often (stock)
EDIT: I see the starter solenoid is right next to it, doesn't appear that it's hooked up to it. Goes from a single lead to a spliced 2 lead RED connection. Maybe Power in from main switch?
EDIT: I see the starter solenoid is right next to it, doesn't appear that it's hooked up to it. Goes from a single lead to a spliced 2 lead RED connection. Maybe Power in from main switch?
Johnnygonzoe
New Member
Okay thanks you gentleman for all the new helpful information. Do you think if I hook up the wires together in picture (905 ) from the left to right side is a good idea? So I got the new oil and freash new gas tryed to start it. It starts just doesn't want to kick over. I UNFORTUNATELY BOUGHT THE WRONG SPARK PLUGS. My fault should have brought one with me to match it. Will get new ones tomorrow. But i didnt get a spark with the old spark plug trying to test it against the engine that's probably why it didn't turn over. Will do further testing tomorrow? But am leaning closer to doing a compression test just like you guys recommended. Will buy a compression tester tomorrow?
Johnnygonzoe said:
Not sure what this means.
Generally if an engine isn't seized, it will kick/turn over. Starting and running are usually the same thing. It's not possible to start without kicking over.
Compression test and timing are important. Don't try to run the engine without checking those things.
Hooking up the wires is fine.
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Agreed, the statement is confusing. If you bought the wrong spark plugs, you didn't put them IN the engine did you? As different plugs have shorter or longer reach and can cause big problems
Terms for now :
Kick over, turn over, engine rotates freely all mean the same thing.
Starts for a little while, Sputters, pops but doesn't run = same thing
RUNS = win.
These help us figure out what's going on without being there, so it matters quite a bit for us to help you search out your next problem to get her running. You can borrow a compression tester from an auto place usually for free Just make sure you get the correct plug size (usually there's a set of the different sizes though) And when you do a compression test, you MUST have the throttle wide open to give an accurate reading. Also, the TRUE compression reading can only be done when warm. The cold reading will let you know if you have something drastically wrong. Say 50psi one cylinder and 120 in the other. Which can be as simple as adjusting the valves to get her up closer to spec etc. But we'll deal with that when you get there
Terms for now :
Kick over, turn over, engine rotates freely all mean the same thing.
Starts for a little while, Sputters, pops but doesn't run = same thing
RUNS = win.
These help us figure out what's going on without being there, so it matters quite a bit for us to help you search out your next problem to get her running. You can borrow a compression tester from an auto place usually for free
Just make sure you get the correct plug size (usually there's a set of the different sizes though) And when you do a compression test, you MUST have the throttle wide open to give an accurate reading. Also, the TRUE compression reading can only be done when warm. The cold reading will let you know if you have something drastically wrong. Say 50psi one cylinder and 120 in the other. Which can be as simple as adjusting the valves to get her up closer to spec etc. But we'll deal with that when you get there 
Man, I don't know what your budget is but I would stop everything and order a wiring harness from Sparck. You'll be chasing gremlins for weeks.
Trevor May
Been Around the Block
My bad, I said relay when I meant to say solenoid.
Also since I only have a cj360 for reference, I have never heard of this "starter" option. Isn't that just your right leg?
Also since I only have a cj360 for reference, I have never heard of this "starter" option. Isn't that just your right leg?
Trevor May
Been Around the Block
People call me a masochist, but sitting in my garage with some masking tape, sharpie and a multimeter sounds like fun. A radio and a hot tea will help.deviant said:
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Duchat said:
I'm with you. I enjoy electrical. The only time I hate it, is when something"Checks out" and is still found to be the problem in the end. Coils, pulse generators and stators all come to mind...
Johnnygonzoe
New Member
Sorry for confuzing you guys. It pops but doesn't run. (NO) I didn't use the new spark plug. I bought it but the back end that connects to the spark plug wire didn't fit its diffent. The old one is a Denso W24ES-U. Will post a picture of the old one and then the new one.
Is that the right spark plug for my engine?
Okay so I will look into getting a new wire harness.
Is that the right spark plug for my engine?
Okay so I will look into getting a new wire harness.
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Unscrew the tip off the end of the plug, it will fit in the boot.
Not sure what the "U" stands for in the denso part #. (W24ES) is specified by Honda for use in the 360.
I run the NGK B8ES. Simply cause its readily available at Advance Auto and NGK makes a good quality product.
Not sure what the "U" stands for in the denso part #. (W24ES) is specified by Honda for use in the 360.
I run the NGK B8ES. Simply cause its readily available at Advance Auto and NGK makes a good quality product.
