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Probably should just make sure that I understand the process properly. I weigh down the brake lever overnight and then, with the lever still weighted, crack the bleed nipple? Then tighten the nipple and take the weight off the lever?
I wonder if when the bike was on it's side the brake fluid of course would have "swished" to the side and exposed the m/c holes and the rear brake lever was then pushed when moving the bike and this caused air to get into the system. Just a thought but maybe this was the cause.
right except you don't crack the bleed, just leave a weight on it for a good 12-24 hours and that allows air to come out into the master through the return line.
I wonder if when the bike was on it's side the brake fluid of course would have "swished" to the side and exposed the m/c holes and the rear brake lever was then pushed when moving the bike and this caused air to get into the system. Just a thought but maybe this was the cause.
right except you don't crack the bleed, just leave a weight on it for a good 12-24 hours and that allows air to come out into the master through the return line.
It depends on how your line is run. For his process to work, the reservoir has to be the high point, and your line has to raise in elevation consistently from the caliper to the reservoir. If there are "humps" in how the line is routed, then air will sit in those humps. You need to bleed the lines to push them out.
It depends on how your line is run. For his process to work, the reservoir has to be the high point, and your line has to raise in elevation consistently from the caliper to the reservoir. If there are "humps" in how the line is routed, then air will sit in those humps. You need to bleed the lines to push them out.
Cool, I can make that happen. Right now there are indeed humps in the line, but if I remove the caliper from the rotor and straighten out the brake line so that the caliper is lower than the master cylinder and reservoir, and then apply weight overnight to the lever would that be the way to do it?
Another way is to push the caliper pistons out while monitoring/sucking out MC and then pumping them back in (watching / topping off MC) until they hit the disk. Ususlly much more volume in the calipers than the lines, so this pretty well flushes and removes air..
Sounds like air at a high point in the line. If so remove caliper and raise it so the bleed nipple is at the highest point. Insert a piece of wood or steel to keep the pads apart and go ahead and bleed the brakes. Air should travel to the highest point - the bleed nipple.
Sounds like air at a high point in the line. If so remove caliper and raise it so the bleed nipple is at the highest point. Insert a piece of wood or steel to keep the pads apart and go ahead and bleed the brakes. Air should travel to the highest point - the bleed nipple.
That sounds like another good approach - thanks for the suggestion. I think I may try this first, and then if that doesn't work I'll weigh down the pedal and leave it overnight.
Well, not a total success but definite improvement. Pulled the caliper and cable-tied it up to the grab rail, then bled it. It’s biting better for sure, guess some bubbles came out but can’t be sure. Also adjusted the bolt on the master cylinder to cut out the free play on the pedal - way out of spec but at least the brake is biting now.
Leads me to wonder if it’s something else. With the adjust bolt waaaay out I’m wondering if it may have something to do with the hose itself - maybe switching them out to steel lines would help. Certainly couldn’t hurt.
Cool, I can make that happen. Right now there are indeed humps in the line, but if I remove the caliper from the rotor and straighten out the brake line so that the caliper is lower than the master cylinder and reservoir, and then apply weight overnight to the lever would that be the way to do it?
If then you do that then you might want to put something in between the pads first, to make it easier to pry the pads apart before you re-install the caliper.
One more thing to try. Bleed the system at the master cylinder banjo bolt. Air often gets trapped there. Bleed it by applying pressure and then crack the bolt loose. Then tighten it before you release the pressure.
A stainless line would probably help. certainly won't hurt. Did the caliper take a hit by any chance? the mounting bracket might be tweaked slightly. The way to prove/disprove that is to loosen the mounting bolts and apply the brake. If it now has a firm feel, the mounting bracket may be slightly bent. You can also look at the caliper as you apply the brake (with it still bolted in place, and see if it twists or flexes when the brake is applied.
Old RDs and XS Yamahas are famous for not sitting straight and often need a thin washer (shim) under one bolt to pull it back straight.
Back brake working just fine now, and I think re-routing the choke cable (it was a bit tight) has helped with the rich idle. Not perfect yet, but better.
I'm finding now however that the bike is stalling, particularly when I'm in, say, third gear and pull the clutch while coming to a stop at a traffic light for example. The bike feels a little stuttery, but it's the stall that's concerning. Any idea what could be causing that? It seems to happen more once I've moved through the gears, and then pull the clutch to slow down for a stop. Engine just cuts right out.
I don't even know man, not sure what a dragging clutch feels like. What would be the signs?
Still playing around with the carb. Did a valve check the other day but they're all in spec - a little tight but in spec. Sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake boot, no rpm flare or bog. Pulled the air filter, cleaned and re-oiled it. Then pulled the carb, cleaned the whole thing again, turned out the mixture screw 1⅜ turns as per Clymers and decided to switch out the (OEM non adjustable) needle for the adjustable needle that came with the DynoJet kit I bought a while back. Jets are stock (40 pilot, 145 main). Put the e-clip on the top groove of the DynoJet needle to lean the mixture as much as possible and did plug chops.
2 mins at idle under no load, def carbon fouling. But the really gassy exhaust smell had died down - maybe the rich idle was caused by the freshly oiled filter? Rode 2mins at ¼ throttle, plug still a bit sooty.
Then got down to the highway and did a few miles at ½ throttle, pulled the plug and it looked a lot cleaner - I think if I'd ridden for a bit longer it would have blown through the soot and cleaned the plug up completely. Didn't do ¾ or WOT yet.
Urban plug chops are no easy thing. But they do offer up some decent photo ops -
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