CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
Nice!
What did you build this week?
- Thread starter SONICJK
- Start date
sav0r
Coast to Coast
I had to machine some adapters and machine the reed cages for crank case pulse. I got these carbs mounted and it seems everything worked out. The carbs need a bit of tuning, I set them up rich. That said, lots of potential here. The carbs started off painted gold but after a dip in the ultrasonic tank I found one was anodized purple and the other was natural aluminum. Much preferred to paint. They are gorgeous units. Hopefully in the next couple of weeks after I adjust a few other things I'll find these carbs do what I hope they will do.
Link to the bike running, it started first kick to my surprise. -
Got the link fixed up.
The forum doesn't accommodate imgur videos well, I'm not sure how to make it work.
Link to the bike running, it started first kick to my surprise. -
Code:
https://i.imgur.com/Zce8pSb.mp4Got the link fixed up.
sav0r
Coast to Coast
Thanks!
Yeah, CNC. Did them the internal loft with a .25" ball end, took about about 10 minutes at 8k with a .015" stepover. But I didn't even touch them with sandpaper, the finish is great. I also made the adjusters that site on top of the slides. The slides are meant for an extremely small type of throttle cable and there was no way to adapt a standard type adjuster without cutting on the slide housing, which I didn't want to do.
Yeah, CNC. Did them the internal loft with a .25" ball end, took about about 10 minutes at 8k with a .015" stepover. But I didn't even touch them with sandpaper, the finish is great. I also made the adjusters that site on top of the slides. The slides are meant for an extremely small type of throttle cable and there was no way to adapt a standard type adjuster without cutting on the slide housing, which I didn't want to do.
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
Sexy!
SONICJK
Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
Sav0r said:
1/8" downcut spiral 2 flute endmill for most of it except the small letters (those were a .02" tapered engraving bit)
The small letters are only OK. The joys of CNC with wood is that the wood just doesn't hold detail like the machine will. Once you start getting really detailed the wood starts to chip and break unless you go at a snails pace and use tiny tiny tiny DOC.
That sign took about 2 hours of machining, to get it perfect would probably take 10+
SONICJK
Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
This one was done entirely with a .02 engraving bit and it took about 20 hours of machine time.
Letters and logo about 1/4" deep with a pass depth of .02 so it takes forever, but it comes out clean enough to spray with almost no cleanup.
Letters and logo about 1/4" deep with a pass depth of .02 so it takes forever, but it comes out clean enough to spray with almost no cleanup.
SONIC. said:This one was done entirely with a .02 engraving bit and it took about 20 hours of machine time.
Letters and logo about 1/4" deep with a pass depth of .02 so it takes forever, but it comes out clean enough to spray with almost no cleanup.
There's a reason the Japanese have always used cherry for woodblock printing. Dürer used pear. I actually like MDF for printing, though obviously not the best material for what you're doing. How is the wood chosen in your case? Even beech or birch seems like it would get better detail than that with less chipping.
SONIC. said:Here's My CNC work for today:
Can't wait to see what James (Jimbonaut) does with the finishing.
Wow Justin that looks absolutely brilliant mate, I'm beyond impressed! Thank you so much for this, now I just hope I do you proud with the finishing. Got a plan that I'll run by you, and can't wait to get my grubby little mitts on this beauty. Haven't told the missus I'm getting this made - when she sees it all finished she'll have twins on the spot.
Thanks again Justin, champion 8)
SONICJK
Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
Irk, it's usually chosen by the customer.
That one was a white oak desk front for an insurance office, so it had to match their white oak cabinetry. That piece was supplied to me by the cabinet makers to match and I did the CNC work. Oak is terrible for detail so you have to go extremely slow.
Jimbo's sign is Cherry it does much better, but it's still wood.
The denser the grain the better it holds detail, maple works well. Birch does OK but it's not used much as a high end wood other than for ply so we don't use much of it.
We use Walnut, Maple, Oak, and Cherry for the most part with some exotics mixed in when specified.
MDF works really well, but as you mention it's not really useful for what we're doing as it's not very pretty. For printing it's great and i've made print blocks for stamping boxes with it many times.
Ultimately it all works out, just with varying cut times and fragility.
It's just annoying to have .001" precision and not be able to use it in wood (other than for repeat-ability)
That one was a white oak desk front for an insurance office, so it had to match their white oak cabinetry. That piece was supplied to me by the cabinet makers to match and I did the CNC work. Oak is terrible for detail so you have to go extremely slow.
Jimbo's sign is Cherry it does much better, but it's still wood.
The denser the grain the better it holds detail, maple works well. Birch does OK but it's not used much as a high end wood other than for ply so we don't use much of it.
We use Walnut, Maple, Oak, and Cherry for the most part with some exotics mixed in when specified.
MDF works really well, but as you mention it's not really useful for what we're doing as it's not very pretty. For printing it's great and i've made print blocks for stamping boxes with it many times.
Ultimately it all works out, just with varying cut times and fragility.
It's just annoying to have .001" precision and not be able to use it in wood (other than for repeat-ability)
sav0r
Coast to Coast
I run Mach3 with a Leadshine as well Gecko G540. I have up to 7 drives, I only have 3 truly active, my trunnions table is almost done so soon I’ll have A and C axis going. I was using ESS but have since switched to UC300eth. I really, really, like the UC300eth. I am working on getting up to speed with UCCNC software, but Mach 3 has been working so good it’s tough to switch. I built (assembled) my controller inside an old server enclosure.
SONICJK
Reminds me of...me No, I'm sure of it. I hate him
I haven't used the UC300 but have read good things.
My Router and mill are both only 3 axis. I imagine I'll add a 4th to the mill at some point for rotary stuff but for now we just don't need it, it's mostly a glorified automated drill press except on the weekends hah
My Router and mill are both only 3 axis. I imagine I'll add a 4th to the mill at some point for rotary stuff but for now we just don't need it, it's mostly a glorified automated drill press except on the weekends hah
Habanero52
The Race......is only with yourself!
Sonreir said:
That is impressive!!!!!!
