MGD Setting Up a Trailer for the Long Haul.

BlueCB360

Been Around the Block
I just got back from a short trip up north to Road America, about an hour and a half away. Twice I had to stop to adjust the bikes on the the trailer.

This got annoying, staring at my bikes in the rear view all the time while driving. Not safe at all.

So I ordered some wheel chocks, and D rings for tie downs. I plan on towing three bikes out to Mid-Ohio this July, and they need to stay upright.

Any ideas you can add to the project are welcome.



 
Re: Setting Up a Trailer for the Long Haul.

While waiting on parts, I thought I would check on the bearings. No noticeable signs of wear, wheel play, or noise.

I wanted to be sure, so I pulled the wheels and bearing caps. Turns out the grease is still blue, not even dirty.

With no further adjustments needed, I cleaned things up with a hefty dose of flat black.

I'm now thinking I want a more solid surface to mount my three wheel chocks down to.

I would need seven sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" marine grade or outdoor sign spec plywood.












 
Re: Setting Up a Trailer for the Long Haul.

MGD said:
I'm now thinking I want a more solid surface to mount my three wheel chocks down to.

I would need seven sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" marine grade or outdoor sign spec plywood.

Why seven sheets? are you planning to enclose it?
 
The floor area is 5'x10'. In order to do two layers of 3/4" thick plywood spaced evenly for fastening, I need seven sheets.

I don't know of any local store that would carry anything larger than a 4'x8' sheet.
 
Ok the straps :D we know that keeping the shocks compressed for long periods is no good, so I mod my straps to keep the bike stable without to much pressure on the shocks, using heavy carabinas (snap hooks) on the other end of the hook strap which just clip on to your tie point. you do need to put a bolt through you strap (or you could just tie them off. I think you can even buy straps like thus now? anyway here's some pic's
 

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Nice. Those stay hooked, even without tension on them. Good idea, minimizes frustration.
 
So the wheels chocks came in, and I started to lay them out.

I was able to get the rear two bolts on all three chocks to land on a steal cross member.

With the 360 in the middle, I can just close the ramp without hitting the back tire.

Time to lay out the tie down D rings. Where would you put them?













 
Well that's a different layout :eek: you should put the tie points as far out as you can, but they also should be placed so that your straps will be just in front of the line of your shocks ;D
 

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I have a general question. I have a little 4 x 4 trailer I want to use for my one bike. I have the track with the kick up at the front to be the wheel chock (like andycafe's trailer). Tongue weight is important. In general what percentage of the bike should be in front of the axle?

I've seen lots of people just center the bike over the axle but I don't think that provides enough load on the tongue.

With a short trailer the further forward the bike goes the harder locating the front tie downs becomes.
 
I always like to have the motor just forward of the axle, this gives you weight on the ball enough to avoid ball bounce :) also if your front gate folds down you could attach a tie bar to your a frame further forward..

ps: the bike trailer isn't mine, just an example ;D I have a 7 x 4 deep side nowadays :eek:
 

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Andy all ready said it but I'll hammer it in. You need tongue weight. If the tongue is light the trailer will not tow straight. I can't give all the examples I've dealt with but be warned, those trailers you see turned over on the freeway were tongue light!!!

Tom
 
When you live in an apartment or condo, there's no place to put a trailer. On the rare occasions that I need to haul a bike from or to somewhere, I just rent a U-Haul.
 
Your tie down D-Rings should be about the front axle or a little forward of each bike so the two front middle rings would almost side by side.

That rear bike is going to be tough because you want the rings to be wider than the handlebars and forward to cinch the front end down.

But with the chocks being there that doesn't have to be as tight as you would think.
 
vibration said:
When you live in an apartment or condo, there's no place to put a trailer. On the rare occasions that I need to haul a bike from or to somewhere, I just rent a U-Haul.

It's only 25" deep when folded ;) I know a guy who has 1 of these in front of his car in his apartment carpark :)
 

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Buy MX straps for tie down. These pro tapers are really good :

http://www.btosports.com/p/PROTAPERTIEDOWNS

They have a swiveling snap hook, so no twists and if you forget to remove your straps, they won't fly off down the highway.

They have a loop that keeps the metal hooks away from your bars.
 
Are you replacing the planking ?
two layers without planking will be plenty strong but I found marine ply still needs sealing after fitting (OK, probably should have realised but found out the hard way ir will start to delaminate after a few years out in the weather ::) )
Personally I would have had a smaller trailer (but, I have a smaller truck, Mazda B2300 ;D )
 
Two reasons I didn't replace the decking:
1. I was able to bolt the chocks through the wood to steel cross members. Even the middle chock is mounted to steel.
2. Cost. Marine/ sign plywood is $50-60.00 a sheet.

I may just get through this season with it as pictured. I just bought the trailer in April, so I may still customize it, lock box and paint. Things like that.
 
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