CompleteHavoc - '73 CL175 Brat/Tracker

CompleteHavoc

New Member
First I'm a new poster, though I've browsed for close to a year. I picked this little guy up in a trade, was really looking for a CL350/CL360 but couldn't pass up getting something fun and cleaning out some old garbage at the same time... Just don't ask the wife, she'll tell you I just traded for a different kind of garbage.

It's a 1973 CL175, not running right now. Turns freely, and the inside of the tank is clean. Own said it was running 2-3 months ago and showed a video of it running. He thinks it's the points as he adjusted them to get it running the first time.

The first thing on my list is fluid changes, and greasing. Replacing the current point with new ones and see what happens.

I want to convert to a newer ignition and get ride of the points completely, but I'm still researching if/how this can be done - any info would be great.

Also what type of points are these, read that 2 different type are used on these bikes (photo below)

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Went though the liquids today, changed and lubed what I thought needed it. During the process I discovered the choke was off the non-exhaust side carb. Popped it on moved the lever, turned the key and hit start...

Hot Dang it fired right up... then died... really need to take a run to the gas station and put some fuel in this baby beast - too much rain to deal with it today though.
 
Awesome! We are doing similar things with nearly identical bikes! My build is listed here, but I accidentally miscategorized it in the Bob/Chop section since the Japanese version of a bobber is a brat bike. Not too many photos yet...

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=38827.msg422512#msg422512

My understanding is that there are electronic ignitions available for the CB/CL 160 + 175, but they aren't really much of a performance or reliability upgrade since the points are super easy to adjust on these small twins.

I am not sure when the points changed, but my '72 has the same ones. I suspect the 68-71 models had the other type. This is really only gauged by the fact that I ordered points off of ebay that were listed for 68-73 and they were the wrong configuration.

Good luck with your project - I'll be keeping tabs on this!
 
Made a little progress between taking the daughter to get the plates for her first car, and having to cover the Dog boutique for the wife while she did some running around.

Managed to get 90% of the bike striped and bagged. made notes of things I needed to order tonight - Bars, Grips, cables, plugs, points, coil, tires, and maybe shocks.

I hope to mark out and cut the frame shorter this weekend, weld in the loop and decide if powder or paint is the route to go.

I'll also be CLRing the tank this weekend also, though it looks good in side the cap was completely rusted.

Are there repo tank decals somewhere on line? if not i'll have to measure and design some to print up.

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BTW the CBR600F3 in the back ground is only waiting to get wrapped, then mirrors - Though the wife still considers it an incomplete project - thus the unhappy look I got about the current state of the CL175.
 
Looks like my quick 4 week build got side tracked today... The lower frame is tweaked, as this picture shows. The lower section will need to be replaced, or i need a parts bike with a good frame... Hate to build a jig and rebuild the frame.

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Priced out a few frames, so I think that the route i'll take. Question if anyone is reading this - what year frames are the same and what models - CB, CL, 175, 200,

Started to strip the paint on the motor. not sure I'll break it down as compression is good and no leaks while running on the bench for 15 minutes today.

I might have this turned around in 4-5 weeks after all.
 
Not sure what you mean, but the cb200 frames are build like that. Its normal that one tube is higher than the other and the bash-plate looking crooked is also normal. It's the way those frames were build.
To me, it looks a-ok.


Why strip the engine if its ok? Just ride the sucker. You can always strip and hone the engine if that's what it needs. Those engines are prone to oil-damages. There are very little cavities and holes thru wich the oil must find it's way up the camshaft. A new gasket can easily block one of those needle-point (yeah that small) holes and ruin the cam. When it works, keep 'er closed. That's my advice.
 
Don't rush into thinking it is bent, the SR250 looks bent with one tube bent and one straight. Check the weld, if that is OK then it probably was made that way.
 
My CL350 and CL175 frames are like that too. I assumed it was staggered so that the engine can be removed from the side with the lower rail. Otherwise, nice work. Bike looks clean as-is but we all know that it can always look cleaner!
 
CRAP... good thing I've been draggin my feet on ordering a new frame... Thanks for making me double check this as it appears you guys are right on the money...

Look here - The red circles lead me to believe that indeed the frame is staggered on the lower tubes... Now I need to check if the pegs mounts are really bent as well...

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Dude, im 100% sure everything is just fine. Don't worry, your pegmount thingy is just fine (crooked that is, by factory default) as you can see in one of the first pictures.

Now relax.
 
I know, I'm a freak about making sure things are square and level - its a carry over trait from building show trucks and Harleys - heres a pic of my last full build (used to be a 2003 sportster 883).

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OK done begging for web cred - if you want to see some other photos check out my facebook for them.

So I'm convinced that you guys know what your talking about and the lower rails are not level, and that the pegs should not be even from side to side...

Frame is getting stripped and painted, powder coat is out at this point to keep the cost low.

Looking to order a 7.5" bend of 1" tube for the rear, save the trouble of borrowing time at KDC (Kat Daddy Customs) for something so small.

I haven't had to buy tubes for tires since I was 16 and BMX racing, so what do I look for when I bought 3x18 and 3.5x18 tires.
 
Tubes run in ranges, will fit 2.75-3.5 x18 tire etc. Find a tube with your tire sizes within the range and you are golden. Like the same size will work front and back in your case.
 
Thanks, knowing what to look for made finding the right brand that carries dirt bike tubes. I thought I would be looking for duel sport but they use metric sizing.
 
I like the paint. Cast coat aluminum? Word of advice, be extremely careful when installing it back in the frame. Though the paint looks and feels durable, I still managed scratch the shit out of it when installing my CL350's motor in its frame (even with two people holding a pipe insulation padded frame as we slowly positioned it over the motor). I guess you could cure it for extra durability but I'm assuming you weren't planning on it since the engine was painted together.
 
Yea, don't plan on curing it... I'll have to be sure to be super careful when it goes back in.


BarnBurner said:
I like the paint. Cast coat aluminum? Word of advice, be extremely careful when installing it back in the frame. Though the paint looks and feels durable, I still managed scratch the shit out of it when installing my CL350's motor in its frame (even with two people holding a pipe insulation padded frame as we slowly positioned it over the motor). I guess you could cure it for extra durability but I'm assuming you weren't planning on it since the engine was painted together.
 
OK, help me time again... I have new fork seals but don't know how to remove the current... the look like this after i remove the snap ring.

How do I remove it to replace?

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