SL350 Dirt Scrambler

Hello everyone,

Starting on another build. Picked up this SL350 for cheap ($300) locally. It was basically sitting in someone's backyard under a tarp. It had spiders, bugs, leaves, cobwebs, little nuts?... and all kinds of crap. Looked like it had been sitting there for a while. The PO told me he used to race it in Michigan before and the bike started its life in Vermont. I heard that these bikes are getting rare especially the ones with this type of frame. A lot of people like them because the frame is a little more sturdier I guess and they modify them to race I heard. But my plan is to turn it into a nice everyday ridable dual sport scrambler type of deal.

Here it is after I picked it up.



Anyway, got it home. Fiddled around with it a little. After a fresh battery and little bit of carb cleaning, it started up. Of course it ran rough, but at least I know it runs.

Started tearing it down, finding all kinds of crap... found a bunch of little acorn type of nuts... weird... oh and there was a ton of spider larva eggs whatever that was... was nasty.




Test fitted some old triumph bars I got for cheap. I like the relaxed upright position.



Hmmm looks a little messy...



And then I run into this! The PO looks like welded the shift lever to the shifter shaft! Why would someone do that? SMH Any ideas on how to handle this situation?



Anyway, test fitted a alum gas tank I had from an old Triumph Tiger Cub Trials bike. It is pretty neat and small. I am not sure how I am going to mount it though. Ideas and experience welcome Also tested out a biltwell sportster seat I used from my other bike.

Nice tube framed SL. That front wheel is from a CB or CL, original rim is 21".

DrJ said:

Nice tube framed SL. That front wheel is from a CB or CL, original rim is 21".

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No idea, yes it is a 19" so might be CL

DrJ said:

Nice tube framed SL. That front wheel is from a CB or CL, original rim is 21".

Click to expand...

nope the first kick only sl's had a 19
i like that seat and tank combo looks the schizzle

you might as well cut that shifter shaft off, you are going to need a new one any how.

Subscribed.

Like that seat! May need to find one for my 350 project.

I'm in. Looking good

keep it as you mocked it up....so so rad!

Yeah I'm really digging that trials tank and the Trump bars. The Biltwell Banana looks pretty good there but I imagine you'd need to make some pretty serious modifications to get it to fit right. Also interested to see how it goes with pods on what looks to be the stock intake runners.

tank needs to go forward a couple inches and the seat needs to come up in the front, a surround trim would finish it off nice

TheCoffeeGuy said:

you might as well cut that shifter shaft off, you are going to need a new one any how.

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Yeah man, I was hoping to avoid doing anything to the motor because it had good compression and seemed to shift well. But I guess I have to now.

dg1 said:

Subscribed.

Like that seat! May need to find one for my 350 project.

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Thanks man, yeah I actually used that seat on my cl175 and it looked pretty cool on it. I think it looks very at home on the cl175 because its a smaller bike. I am also considering the Biltwell Cafe seat which might better in this case.

Biltwell Banana seat on my CL175:



Biltwell Cafe Seat:

coyote13 said:

Yeah I'm really digging that trials tank and the Trump bars. The Biltwell Banana looks pretty good there but I imagine you'd need to make some pretty serious modifications to get it to fit right. Also interested to see how it goes with pods on what looks to be the stock intake runners.

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Actually the PO put the pods on and supposedly rejetted the carbs. As for the seat, yeah I'd have to do some cutting and welding on the rear to fit a new fender and seat.

xb33bsa said:

tank needs to go forward a couple inches and the seat needs to come up in the front, a surround trim would finish it off nice

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Yep I will be cutting the stock gas tank mounting tabs off soon so the tank can go forward a little. When I mocked it up it was right up against the tabs. But not sure about how to mount it though.

This is the exact tank (not mine, found pic online). I have no idea how they are supposed to be mounted. I think there are two bottom bolts at the front bottom, there is also a center bolt? type of thing? Anyone know?

want to sell me the sl tank?
the way to mount is a stud in the middle, common practice is a piece of half tube with a carriage blot and 2 hose clamps
then some hard closed cell foam at either end of the tank wrapped over frame,nut in the middle cinches tank snug on foam

That thing is great! I know what it's like to dig out old rodent meals - it's that much more satisfying to get it all cleaned up nice. Good luck!

samsquantch said:

That thing is great! I know what it's like to dig out old rodent meals - it's that much more satisfying to get it all cleaned up nice. Good luck!

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thanks man, yeah hopefully get it up and running soon.

SL350 Dirt Scrambler - spokes and rims

What are your thoughts on reusing spokes? I've reused them before after a good cleaning with a new rim. But I've been reading about metal fatigue and how after many years of being under stress, they will snap or become even more loose. Any thoughts?

Buchanan spokes are pricey. I will be using mikesxs alum shouldered 2.15x18 and 2.15x19 rims and thinking about using dunlop k81 4.10x18 rear and 4.10x19 front tires.

Advise and enlightenment welcome...

if the spokes are not rusty you should be ok
4.10 is huge for the front it will slow down handling,the extra weight is not gonna help the suspension and may not even fit in between the forks
1.85 rim is plenty on the front and a 90/100 tire is as big as you want to go that is what i am using on my sl

sancho said:

Yeah man, I was hoping to avoid doing anything to the motor because it had good compression and seemed to shift well. But I guess I have to now.

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To replace the shaft, you only need to remove the clutch side cover, loosen the oil pump and move the clutch assembly with oil pump out a bit to make clearance.

The clutch has the pump piston attached, so the clutch and pump must move together.

No need to split the case. Took me about a hour and a half at a leisurely pace. That was with new gaskets. Your gasket material will tear and will stick harder than glue. Need to use some M3 roloc discs. The grey ones used to strip paint will polish the surfaces very gently. Just clean up so no crap gets left inside. Perfect opportunity to clean bottom of the case of all of the sludge and to clear the oil pump screen.

Don't put knobs on it if you are going to be on the highway often. It sounds like a long loud muffled fart and will make rides unpleasant with the buzz throughout the frame, seat and bars.