1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

Yea PJ, I was going to bench grinder them too. The grinder has a grinding wheel on one end, and a wire brush on the other. That thing sees a lot of action due to old bikes and old British cars!

I scored a set of pads and a rubber band ;D for $20, so not bad. I'll keep looking for the piston, but I haven't even fired the bike yet, so I'm a bit of a way away from needing to stop it yet. I just pulled the trigger on that petcock as well, thanks Trek.

Thanks again guys, I appreciate all the tips and tricks you folks are passing along. I was staring realllllllyyy hard at the CB350 drum front brake/hub I have, but I think I'll stick with the stock disk brake. It's what made the CB360T the special high-dollar bike, right?
 
Dave Silver Spares has stainless pistons for $40.00, also has an American outlet (only found that out last night)
 
Holy crap, you're right! I should have been putting ".com" after their URL instead of ".co.uk" :p

I did score a sweet seat cover and a NOS airbox cover for the '79 CB650 from their UK branch a while back though...

Anyway, thanks again - new SS piston and a replica ignition switch and key on their way to me. Anyone need any CB350 parts or CB650 carb parts to keep me out of the poor house?
 
I received a very nice condition set of gauges yesterday, and they have almost the same milage as the rusty water damaged gauges on the bike:

FtCfe.jpg


Unrelated to gauges, I'm getting a little concerned about all the top end oiling issues I see. The main issue seems to be not enough oil getting to the top end at high RPMs due to the oil pump pressure relief opening, reducing top end oil pressure. On Subarus, we would shim the spring holding that relief shut to increase spring pressure, and therefore increase oil pressure. This worked to buy us another 10 psi of oil pressure, but that was about all we could squeeze out of them.

Is there a similar mod I could do to this 360 to protect the top end? I have both the left and right hand covers off already, so I have a clear shot at the oil pump.

Thanks!
 
My plan is to go with an external, electric oil pump and plumb lines to the trouble areas. I think shimming the spring would probably help, too. You might want to get an oil pressure gauge on there to see how much it helps. You may want a fairly sensitive one, though. Something in PSI and not bar.
 
I posted pictures of the mod I did
It should be enough to increase flow (you need flow not pressure)
It's somewhere in 'engines' section and also in build /blog
 
Cool, I'm digging thought your build now, and keep getting sidetracked with all the cool stuff you've done ;D

I really like the throttle shaft "plugs" - I had to swap out a set of Triumph TR4 SU HS6 carbs because the throttle shafts had eaten up the carb housing, and I couldn't keep the thing in tune - if I had thought of making plugs that would have saved those carbs. The good news was that was a fine excuse to swap in a set of Hitachi licensed copy HS6 carbs from a Datsun 240z. It's amazing the difference in the level of precision between the SU-made and the Hitachi-made carbs - the SUs look like they'd been made on an anvil, and the Hitachis were jewels in comparison. Also, moar powerz from the bigger jetted Hitachis...

Anyway, as I drift off course into the shallows of way off topic, what is the URL of your blog? I found it once, but made the mistake of not bookmarking it, doh.

Thanks!
 
I just took a quick look and can't find it?
Good job I posted here as well
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=43545.0
 
Huh, so that little piece is the relief. Interesting! The good news is that I already have that cover off, so I can modify away. I'm somewhat terrified to inspect the cam journals - 8,000 miles is a lot of time for someone to mess things up.

I've got a gallon of Rotella 10w-30, but after I get the motor running ok and hopefully wash out some of the sludge, I'll switch over to the 5w-40 motorcycle oil you recommend.
 
New stainless steel caliper piston and ignition switch arrived from David Silver Spares today. Man, that got here quick!

Question: the ignition switch has three positions, and the key is removable in the far left and the far right, but not the middle position. Is the far right (not "off") a parking light setting to keep the tail light lit with the bike off?
 
crazypj said:
Yep.
Off, On, Park
I swapped mine out for NOS Suzuki switch, Off-On ;D

Thanks! I was wondering why the key switch had a "your keys will now fall off the bike while you're riding" position. I have the original key switch, but someone cut all the wires off it and lost the key. Brilliant :p Are the locks for the tank, seat, and steering (if I can find the steering lock assembly) keyed to the ignition, or are they just set up so any CB360 key will unlock them?

I found another supplier for the brake caliper seal, and a good price on a set of oil seals, which are not included in the gasket rebuild kit. I think I'm talking myself into overhauling the motor, yikes. The way this is going, the head is going to end up getting machined for needle bearings for the cam too. Might as well replace the valve guides and get a 3-angle cut on the valve seats too, huh?

I need to get the thing running first though before I go crazy and tear the motor apart. I have to keep repeating that to myself before I find myself surrounded by a torn down motor...
 
I've never changed valve guides on a 360 motor
The valve guide seals, are a different matter though and will need changing
Lock set is that, the tank doesn't need a specific key but seat lock does (another reason I swapped switch, I now have an ignition.seat-lock spare)
Steering lock is different to the seat/ignition, to sell in Europe Honda had to have 1 European part, I think it's the same as generic BMW lock from 70's
 
Good to know about the valve guides - I have new valve seals with the gasket set. I'm a believer in replacing them - I couldn't believe what a difference fresh valve seals made on my '79 CB650. On the downside though, I can no longer rent it out to fog for mosquitos...

I might be able to re-key the seat lock - it's been a while since I've had to play locksmith though. Or, I can just find the code on it and order a new key - there's a guy on Ebay who sells them based on the lock code. Thanks again!
 
There should be a number on seat lock, may have to remove it from frame (if you remove it it's relatively easy to re-key)
 
crazypj said:
There should be a number on seat lock, may have to remove it from frame (if you remove it it's relatively easy to re-key)

Ah-ha, I'm already ahead, as that lock is in a box with most of the rest of the parts off the bike! Hopefully I'll have some pictures from over the weekend - my little brother is in town for the holidays, so I anticipate extra wrenching as a result.
 
I ran across an electronic ignition conversion for XS650s here:

http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=ID&action=print&thread=8035

and got thinking that could work for a CB360 if I could get away with using a "wasted spark" two terminal coil module on the bike. I understand that using a single coil pack will reduce the amount of coil recharge time, but hypothesize that with a modern coil module this would not be an issue.

As electronic ignitions are few and expensive for the 360, and my dislike for points, I'm interested in seeing what I can do with this idea. I'd retain the stock mechanical advance and custom make a "shutter" window like the XS650 guys do.

I've got a bid in on a used Accel trigger module, so we'll see what I can do with that. Just spitballing at this point...
 
XS has a 360 crank, CB360 has a 180 crank, I think if it was possible Honda would have used single set of points and two lobe cam
 
crazypj said:
XS has a 360 crank, CB360 has a 180 crank, I think if it was possible Honda would have used single set of points and two lobe cam

That would explain why the Pamco ignition for the CB350 has two Hall Effect pickups / two separate trigger circuits instead of just one using two magnets. That, or so that the stock coils can be used.

Hmm hmm hmm
 
Welp, I emailed Pamco Pete to add my name to the CB360 ignition list. If Pamco doesn't end up making the ignition trigger for the CB360, I'll just order the IGBTs and Hall Effect sensors and build my own triggers. But I think on parts alone I'd be near $50, so at that point $100 doesn't seem bad. New points and condensers are damn near $60 alone.

I didn't get any time to work on the bike this weekend, but should have some time tomorrow. My little brother's in town for the holiday, so him and I are going to see if we can get it running. I scrounged up my good used set of clutch plates from the CB350 I parted out to replace the sticky rusty ones currently on the bike.

I'm going to have to start a counter for how many posts in which I say "I'm going to see if I can get it running" before I actually get the bike running...
 
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