Paint vs powdercoat....again

randy lahey

New Member
Although I'm sure there's tons and tons of threads on paint vs powdercoat, I'm posting this for some advice on my specific situation. I have a '74 CB360, and (obviously) I'm trying to decide between paint or powder. I know a place near me that will powdercoat the frame and stuff cheap (cheaper than paint), so the argument is definitely for powder.

My only reason for considering painting the frame is because I got a little too loose with the grinder when de-tabbing the frame and now I have some divets in some rather noticable spots. If I paint the frame , I could use some body fill over these spots. Any advice?
 
Fill them with JR Weld and file it smooth. Powder over it. Done. Just make sure that frame is 110% done before you send it out.
 
Agreed, make sure the frame is COMPLETELY ready b4 getting coated. You will see every imperfection.
 
I would talk with the coater before hand and discuss the issues. If he's a garage powder coater who's doing it really cheap you may find that corners are cut in the process. There are special fillers for powder coating and while JB Weld will do (I use it), your coater may have something else he prefers. Just make sure the frame is clean and don't worry about blasting it or anything. Normally blasting is provided in the cost of the coating. If it doesn't include blasting that's one of the reasons it can be done cheaper and I would shy away from that coater, cheap is not always better when it comes to powder coating. Find out what method he uses for plugging threaded holes and make sure you point out to him any holes or threads that need masking or plugging. Powder is almost always cheaper than paint when professionally done.
What's the name of the place that is doing it?
 
Cheap work is rarely good and good work is rarely cheap, to paraphrase a sign in every tattoo shop in the country ;)
 
We all know powder is the answer, the price is what dictates the means.

If you can get a good price on powder, do it. I build bikes on a budget so I generally paint myself. I've had experience with professionally powder coated commercial equipment, and I've chipped the stuff just as easily as I've had paint chip.

It's all in the prep.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
It's actually a mennonite (believe it or not) that has an industrial powder coating operation on his farm. I've had the frame and stuff of my last bike, a zx6r, done there. The final result is good, cost me $60, but they're no help as far as prep work, plugging and taping. They just clean and coat. I try to do as much work as I can myself, but still on a budget this is definitely cheaper than good paint supplies, nor do I have the experience, knowledge, or proper set up for a good paint job.
 
randy lahey said:
It's actually a mennonite (believe it or not) that has an industrial powder coating operation on his farm. I've had the frame and stuff of my last bike, a zx6r, done there. The final result is good, cost me $60, but they're no help as far as prep work, plugging and taping. They just clean and coat. I try to do as much work as I can myself, but still on a budget this is definitely cheaper than good paint supplies, nor do I have the experience, knowledge, or proper set up for a good paint job.

Yeah a Mennonite that watches trailer park boys.
 
Now we are running into the issue that has given powder coating motorcycle parts a bad name. There is a huge difference between commercial powder coating and the custom show powder coating process. The commercial production outfits don't have to usually put out a finish that needs to last 10 years. Their warranty is usually only a year and that is usually dealt with through the retailer of the product. They don't use the usual steps required in prepping a part for it to be long lasting. Usually a chemical etch of some sort is used instead of media blasting. The chemical etch is extremely inferior in giving the part a text suitable enough for the power to adhere to for a long period of time. This is what you get when you hear people say they could get their finger nail under the powder and start flaking it off. The powders the commercial outfits use sometimes inferior to whats available for the custom market.
In your case, as I mentioned, if it's cheaper, it probably means steps in the prep will be left out. I would, if I were you , find someone to blast your frame before taking it to the coater. Find bolts to plug all your holes that need to be or you will be chasing every hole with a tap. Mask off every exposed thread. And DON"T HANDLE THE PARTS WITH BARE HUMAN HANDS after blasting them. I guarantee 90% of the bad stories you hear about powder coating are parts done by commercial outfits.
 
Well, I'm not building a custom show bike, and I'm trying to do as much work as I can myself so I can say I actually built the thing rather than just assembled it :). I have a sand blaster and will be blasting all the parts myself. I had them coat my ninja frame a few years ago that I just chemical stripped the paint off and it's holding up just fine. At the time I called around a few places and the price for just a frame and subframe was over $300 (not sure if that included blasting). So I'm sure this place isn't up to the same level as a more professional custom shop, but from what I've had done there, and for the price, it suits me. In the end, it will still be a better finish than anything I could ever paint. More money saved = more money for cheeseburgers! ;D
 
All you need.
 

Attachments

  • fb0dc02f-c15b-45c0-91c6-c317dda17380_400.jpg
    fb0dc02f-c15b-45c0-91c6-c317dda17380_400.jpg
    5.7 KB · Views: 628
I love that stuff. Used it on nearly everything on the XL. and you can brush it on pretty easily for touch up spots.

VHT epoxy paint works super well for adhering to plastic.

Budget coatings for the win.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
My bike is currently rocking a 5 year old appliance epoxy paint job. The frame has been wearing it for 7 years. Proper prep is your friend.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Same as anything; sand, clean (tack cloth, denatured alcohol with lint free cloth), don't touch, paint. The appliance epoxy takes a long time to gas out so leave it to dry a full 24 hours... Maybe more depending on temp and humidity.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
Back
Top Bottom