1974 CB360 Fallin' Ditch Hell Ride

Working out a solo seat.

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trek97 said:
Wait what? The other seat was pretty darned neat. :eek:
Haha. I want to give this solo seat idea a look. Going back to what I envision for the purpose of the bike, which is a gravel/sand road beater, it makes sense to have a solo seat and rear rack. That describes more of a scrambler than a tracker.
 
Did you measure (or know) primary resistance of the Emgo coils? Usually the 'tiny' ones are designed for CDI ignition and will burn out on a points system
 
crazypj said:
Did you measure (or know) primary resistance of the Emgo coils? Usually the 'tiny' ones are designed for CDI ignition and will burn out on a points system

Might it help to keep them cooler if he maxed out points gap?
 
I don't have points on here. Still though, I think the resistance has to be 3 - 5 ohms.
 
Leave it to PJ to rain on my BBQ. No worries though. In the spirit of being cheap, I dug out a couple of coils that didn't work and "rebuilt" them. I broke off all the epoxy around the base of the plug wire and the connectors. Then I cut off the ground and power wires, leaving clean terminals. I twisted and pulled the spark plug wire out of the coil body. The plug wire is pushed onto a pin in the same way the plug cap is done. I drilled out the plug wire hole to 8mm down to the pin. Then I pushed the plug wire in, checked resistance (9.5k ohms), and epoxied them in. I checked resistance again before the epoxy set. Then soldered the lead wires- one with yellow, one with blue, a black/white, and a black. Put new NGK resistor caps on, checked primary resistance (14.5k ohms), and secondary resistance (4 ohms). Lastly, I coated the solder connections with liquid rubber.

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You can use the small ones if you toss in a 2Ω or 3Ω power resistor. 50W should be enough, but 60W would be better.

Something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/292098243662
 
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


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Tune-A-Fish said:
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


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Should hold up to this....
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Tune-A-Fish© said:
XL fender is more fitting to the style that MX is too flimsy also so paint will hold up longer on the more rigid plastic. I wouldn't be afraid to put a decent depth of foam for the seat insert, your gonna want the comfort.

Sweet little multi


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Thanks, Tune. The plan for the seat is something like the early KX/XR/CR seats. If they'd fit this frame better, I'd just fit one of those. So, should be plenty of pad. May see if I can find a cheap pad and use it for the foam.
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I think I agree about the fender too. I love the shape of the early XL fenders, front and back.
 
Got it all wired up and lit it on fire. Amazingly, this GL Dyna works like a charm. Needs some adjustment in the carbs and the seal behind the advancer leaks like a sieve. Fortunately, I bought all the seals, so it just a matter of swap . I hope I can do it without loosening any bolts.

https://youtu.be/TxeQjbnuj7U
 
Well, it ran on one cylinder because the Dyna rotor needed two opposing magnets instead of just the one it had. I should've known, but it took me flipping the rotor to realize what was going in. For some reason having two sensors at 90° is all I though it needed, but it's also 2:1 which requires the extra magnet. So, I drill a hole opposite the other magnet and epoxied a tiny fridge magnet in. Now, it actually runs like a 378cc bike should run. A little rough at the low end, so I'll double check the advance and move on to the carb tuning.
 
irk miller said:
Well, it ran on one cylinder because the Dyna rotor needed two opposing magnets instead of just the one it had. I should've known, but it took me flipping the rotor to realize what was going in. For some reason having two sensors at 90° is all I though it needed, but it's also 2:1 which requires the extra magnet. So, I drill a hole opposite the other magnet and epoxied a tiny fridge magnet in. Now, it actually runs like a 378cc bike should run. A little rough at the low end, so I'll double check the advance and move on to the carb tuning.

even with the low end running rough, is it still a noticeable difference from a stock 360 vs a 378?
 
HURCO550 said:
even with the low end running rough, is it still a noticeable difference from a stock 360 vs a 378?
For sure. PJ's carb mod does wonders for the stock motor, though. This also has an XL250 44 tooth rear sprocket, as opposed to the stock 34 tooth CB's came with.
 
irk miller said:
For sure. PJ's carb mod does wonders for the stock motor, though. This also has an XL250 44 tooth rear sprocket, as opposed to the stock 34 tooth CB's came with.

dang 10 tooth jump in the rear! WHEEEEELLLIEEEE TIMEEEEEE

that's awesome man. Ridesolo is doing the 378 with pj carbs. Im looking forward to riding the little booger whenever he gets it done
 
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