1974 CB360 Fallin' Ditch Hell Ride

Some tidbits of wiring. I'll run sidecovers, so I decided to put it all there instead of a tray or whatever....

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I'm running power through a toggle in the door of the tool box. I'll eventually swap this out for a key switch...

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Some people might disagree with this timing procedure, but it seems to work:

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For the left side, I plugged one multimeter lead into the yellow coil plug. The other lead to the neg on the battery. Rotated the motor to the LT on the compression stroke. Slowly rotated the Dyna until I read battery charge on the meter. I double checked with the crank. Repeat for the right side with the blue plug. The sensors are set at 90°, so they shouldn't need an adjustment, and there wasn't. I made a mark on the Dyna and a corresponding mark on the case. In order to fit the Dyna cam onto the end of the CB360 camshaft, I had to machine it down. It's much shorter than the GL. This made it virtually impossible to advance the cam according to Dyna's procedures. I made small protractor to fit the Dyna and measured 15 degrees of advance, made a mark and ran it. Then I moved it back 5 degrees and I'll run it again in the morning. This is a lot like timing my truck's 350.

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I've got turn signals. LED turns front and back and tail. Stock headlamp. I'm going to run a Vapor for gauges.
 
At least the plan is a Vapor. I want something small and without cables. Here are turns and tail:

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Trying to figure out definitively if this bike can be run with a single, two lead coil as a wasted spark. Forum searching shows results from HondaTwins that suggests not, but as a 180° parallel twin, I feel like it should. Might just have to try it and find out.
 
It would be tricky, but I think possible.

The main problem is the short duration between the firing of the left and right coils, but an occasional misfire of the right side might also be a possibility.

The problem we face is charging the coil field at high RPMs. In four cylinder bikes and 360° twins, you have a longer charge cycle between coils discharges: 360° of crank rotation instead of 180°. Moving to 3Ω coils would help. You might notice ignition cutting out on the right cylinder as RPMs increase into the upper ranges. With the stock setup, you're getting about 6.3 milliseconds to charge each coil (dwell) between firings at 9500 RPM. Halve that for the right cylinder if you go with wasted spark. Typical dwell time, depending on the coil, is between 2ms and 5ms to hit a 100% charge.

The other issue would be potential pre-ignition of the fuel. When the left side is nearing TDC and firing, the right side should be nearing BDC with a cylinder full of fresh air and fuel. It probably won't ignite until compressed, but it might, from time-to-time.
 
irk miller said:
Leave it to PJ to rain on my BBQ. No worries though. In the spirit of being cheap, I dug out a couple of coils that didn't work and "rebuilt" them. I broke off all the epoxy around the base of the plug wire and the connectors. Then I cut off the ground and power wires, leaving clean terminals. I twisted and pulled the spark plug wire out of the coil body. The plug wire is pushed onto a pin in the same way the plug cap is done. I drilled out the plug wire hole to 8mm down to the pin. Then I pushed the plug wire in, checked resistance (9.5k ohms), and epoxied them in. I checked resistance again before the epoxy set. Then soldered the lead wires- one with yellow, one with blue, a black/white, and a black. Put new NGK resistor caps on, checked primary resistance (14.5k ohms), and secondary resistance (4 ohms). Lastly, I coated the solder connections with liquid rubber.

Sorry but it's probably better to fix it now rather than break down in the middle of 'somewhere' ;)
 
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