Clubman Bars Vs. Clip on Bars

When I first got my bike I installed a set of clubmans. The clubmans were $19 at the local bike shop, and lot better looking than the Answer bars that were on it. One day I was cleaning my bike and noticed that the chrome was flaking off my barely 6 month old bars. So I got a set of RCC clip ons and installed them. In hind sight I should have done this in the first place. It would have been much simpler to install them when I had the forks off the first go around. I am 6'2" and the clips on made it more comfortable to ride. After about three rides I got the clip ons adjusted to where the are comfy and don't make my wrists go numb like my GSXR used too.

If anyone wants my old clubmans with the chrome flaking off, or a rusty pair of answer dirt bike bars, pay the freight and they are yours.
 
I have clubmans right now I had to cut them, took about an inch out of the center of them and also cut some of the ends off to get them spaced. But when I got these new trees the bar clamp spacing is more than my old ones so now you can see the knurling on the bars....I need my inch back haha. Im really thiking about going with a MX bar or maybe even a flipped MX bar. I dont know.
 
03rangerxlt said:
The clamp on my bike is part on the light dashboard and part on the clamp. If I go with clip on bars, can I just grind down the bar clamp part off the, ummm, tripple clamp part?
Sorry, I really have no clue what I', doin'!

http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1972-honda-cb500k1-handlebar-top-bridge/o/m9200sch398401

The set up you have is very similar to bikes in the day [ BSA, Triumph, Norton, etc. ].

two options -
1. Simply naff off all the parts you don't want and then reinstall a length of chrome / stainless tube the same size as the bars. Approx. 1" longer than clamp saddles. Put rubber bungs in the end for neatness. In the day we used this for mounting the choke and advance / retard levers.

Or

2. Simply grind the saddles off neatly and repaint Whichever is the easiest / neatest method for you. You might find that the top saddle [ 2 x individual clamps ] mounts from an earlier / different model will fit.
here are my bars:
 
If you plan on grinding, make sure you inspect the bottom side before you begin. Many models are hollow there in the casting and will not allow you to grind smooth without creating big holes in the top clamp, and that may not be able to handle the correct stress load. Some make/model will allow a smooth grinding while others won't. If your will not, get creative and make a plan, this is what I came up with on my (delayed) Eileen build:
SDC11103.jpg

SDC11508.jpg

SDC11509.jpg

and finished:
SDC11649.jpg

SDC11666.jpg
 
DUH! Mine are hollow on the back, so no grindning down the nubs. I think I will just stick with running clubmans for now.
 
03rangerxlt said:
The clamp on my bike is part on the light dashboard and part on the clamp. If I go with clip on bars, can I just grind down the bar clamp part off the, ummm, tripple clamp part?
Sorry, I really have no clue what I', doin'!
here are my bars:
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1972-honda-cb500k1-handlebar-top-bridge/o/m9200sch398401

Inspect the under side of your clamp to make sure you have proper support. But I cut my risers completely off.

Tree1.jpg


tree3.jpg


clipon1.jpg


yes I know my cluster is ugly, I am working on that :(
 
Qckslvr said:
Inspect the under side of your clamp to make sure you have proper support. But I cut my risers completely off.

yes I know my cluster is ugly, I am working on that :(

Did you weld up the holes?
 
tWistedWheelz said:
Did you weld up the holes?

filled them with epoxy. Took the top clamp to a couple shops, and they all felt that the cast in bracing was more than enough support. Especially with the cast iron lower clamp in tact. I did see a nice café build were the owner completely hollowed out the upper clamp on there CB then polished it. I have been on a few spirited rides, and everything is holding up fine.
 
Oh, no, I had no doubt about the structural integrity of your clam, I know it is fine there, I was asking because I only saw it painted, I was thinking if you filled it with aluminum weld, you may be able to sand it all down smooth and polish it! Either way though, it is super nice and clean! It will be tits for sure when you clean up that cluster.....or maybe lose it altogether!
 
tWistedWheelz said:
Oh, no, I had no doubt about the structural integrity of your clam, I know it is fine there, I was asking because I only saw it painted, I was thinking if you filled it with aluminum weld, you may be able to sand it all down smooth and polish it! Either way though, it is super nice and clean! It will be tits for sure when you clean up that cluster.....or maybe lose it altogether!

I wanted to weld it originally, but everyone confirmed that the welded aluminum would stick out like a sore thumb vs the cast aluminum. And thanks, I have a few ideas about the cluster.
 
Qckslvr said:
I wanted to weld it originally, but everyone confirmed that the welded aluminum would stick out like a sore thumb vs the cast aluminum. And thanks, I have a few ideas about the cluster.

I dont think thats true..? Really? hmm... Naaa...

I think you've been misinformed
 
"Clip-ons around the bottom yolk" -

something like this then !!!!!!! This is my ex. Brother-in-Law's B33 just after he bought it. I'd already fitted the clip-ons / rear sets for him and the Goldie silencer. He's looking for the follow up pix [ 1965 !! ] which showed the Goldie GRP tank, twin Smith's clocks, etc.,etc. He used the Rocket Gold Star "option" seat with hump, as it was his only means of transport for him and his Wife.
Later, when he had alternative transport [ Reliant 3 Wheeler van ! ], I pulled the engine and "Goldie'ised" it for him using essentially a Goldie top end on his B33 lower cases / crank etc. At the same time I fitted a swept back Goldie exhaust. He paid £5 for the bike - all up and running [ 1964 ] and used it for a couple of years, modifying it as we went along. We paid £15 for the Goldie engine complete [ with a wrecked crank and case].

He's looking out for any other pix of the era - I hope he finds one of my ex. Bob Mac Connie at Brands with me aboard.

BTW - not convinced about the origin of the term "Ace bars" attributed to the ACU Clubmans Series regulations ......... I ran in that series with my Gold Star and later Tribsa - both with clip-ons.

johnsB33.jpg
 
I have no idea where teh name ACE came from - probably a trade name back in the sixties.

Clubmans however is very clear. When the Clubmans class was introduced in 1947 at the TT, the rules were designed for modified production machines and were designed to bar genuine race machines. For example they had to be kick started to start the race.

The rules were relaxed over time and when the class spread to the mainland, the rules were further relaxed and clip ons were allowed. But that's where that term originated - back in 1947.

I have heard a couple of stories of where ACE came from. Someone somewhere might know. Maybe they just came from the cafe as many bikes used clubmans rather than clip ons back then.
 
Running a set of clubmans right now, merely because they came on the bike (Mind you, the PO had them flipped UPSIDE-DOWN!), but at this point, my forks are up through the trees where they are just missing the bars, so I'm considering a set of clip-ons.
 
Didn't I see a bunch of bike on a Japanese video with upside down clubman's bars?
 
Just came across an old "Pride and Clarke" advert in a motorcycle mag dated 1968 where they're advertising "Ace" bars as such. 8)
 
I think clubman/ace bars have their place. I've seen pics of OE bikes from the early 60's, lots of them Italian that had factory clubman bars. Mostly smaller displacement rigs, boy racer stuff but they are classic now. In that situation and one where perhaps the builder wishes to emulate that mindset I think they work just fine and can indeed be quite lovely.

I do think Clip-ons are a far better option for riding right at the edge as you are far more 'connected' to the forks with them vs. riser mounted bars of any kind. Especially if you're bars are in rubber mounted risers...then forget any kind of 'feel' at all. Even with solid riser top clamps you're going to lose some of the direct feel via the much longer stretch of flexible tube between your hands and the forks.

Given the choice I'd say clip-ons if you're serious or want to appear so...





edit for rampant typos
 
tWistedWheelz said:
If you plan on grinding, make sure you inspect the bottom side before you begin. Many models are hollow there in the casting and will not allow you to grind smooth without creating big holes in the top clamp, and that may not be able to handle the correct stress load. Some make/model will allow a smooth grinding while others won't. If your will not, get creative and make a plan, this is what I came up with on my (delayed) Eileen build:
SDC11103.jpg

SDC11508.jpg

SDC11509.jpg

and finished:
SDC11649.jpg

SDC11666.jpg

Wow nice! great way to hide the bar mounts! like that might try to do some thing similar to that maybe mount the speedo to some thing like that
 
Back
Top Bottom