So Believe I solved the Vertical/Horizontal motion problem...

zip cut the lug off and have it welded, to the proper position.I assume it's to be used on a rear drum,with a rod!! closer the clevis point to the pivot point will give you a more sensitive brake,father away less, the rear drum lever can be flipped (6 o'clock to 12 o'clock) to help you clear the rod from the shocks etc..
 
Roustabout said:
You could convert your rear brake to a cable actuated setup like an old Suzuki T500 - I swear by them :). Use the master cylinder mounting location to mount your cable vertically and attach the cable end to a clevis pinned to the pedal where that brake light switch mount is. You could scavange the clevis off the master cylinder. You end up eliminating that slave lever assembly that is mounted to your frame.
Click to expand...

Now this is a good idea.
Its the same set up on a Norton COmmando as well.
 
Here is a silly noobie question, why dont you just put on a rear disk set up from another bike, (arent there older hondas that have rear disks and calipers?), and just use a rear master cylider from a R1 or something?

This seems to be a whole lot of touble just for a rear brake pedal.
 
HorrorHo said:
Here is a silly noobie question, why dont you just put on a rear disk set up from another bike, (arent there older hondas that have rear disks and calipers?), and just use a rear master cylider from a R1 or something?

This seems to be a whole lot of touble just for a rear brake pedal.
Click to expand...

He would have to swap wheels to mount a disc set up. WHich comes with its own set of headaches at times...
 
HerrDeacon said:
Great stuff Noel, love the ingenuity. Is there anything there to prevent the new eye part from rotating, where it connects to the pedal? Just wondering if it will start to rotate when pressure is applied.

Put up some pics when you get it all installed.An aluminum truss from the peddle arm to the eye of the pivot would stop any rotation.but you would have to drill a hole in the brake arm. The leverage on that extension will will be so great it will always rotate no matter how tight you get it.
Click to expand...
 
I love this idea Noel....to fix the rotating issue though, what about a longer clevis where you can drill a secondary bolt hole to connect to the pedal, and use the existing (now lower) bolt hole for a cotter pin or another nut and bolt. The shaft of the pin or bolt up under the bottom of the pedal should keep it in place.

Something like this....


rearsetclevisissue-1.jpg
 
hmm.. that would definately work!
The only thing is there is no space to drill another hole either above to below the tab!!
 
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