question for machinists

doc_rot

Oh the usual... I bowl, I drive around...
DTT SUPPORTER
DTT BOTM WINNER
I need to bore this needle bearing inner race from 16 to 17mm. A carbide boring bar wouldn't cut it at all. I'm thinking about making a tool holder for a dremel and putting a sanding drum on it. what should i do?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0315.jpg
    IMG_0315.jpg
    307.5 KB · Views: 220
I looked but its a weird size. The needle bearings are 25x32x30 and the inner race needs to be 17x25x35 or could be 17x25x30
 
doc_rot said:
I need to bore this needle bearing inner race from 16 to 17mm. A carbide boring bar wouldn't cut it at all. I'm thinking about making a tool holder for a dremel and putting a sanding drum on it. what should i do?

I made a tool post holder for a die grinder with a cylindrical stone to grind my chuck jaws. I angled it very slightly to cut on the leading edge and it worked perfectly.
 
Pete12 said:
I made a tool post holder for a die grinder with a cylindrical stone to grind my chuck jaws. I angled it very slightly to cut on the leading edge and it worked perfectly.
Poor mans tool post grinder. Well done.

*Not calling you poor, just far cheaper than a tool post grinder.
 
J-Rod10 said:
Poor mans tool post grinder. Well done.

*Not calling you poor, just far cheaper than a tool post grinder.

Haha, no problem. As much as I'd like a tool post grinder it would be very hard to justify for the amount of times I'd use it.
 
Pete12 said:
I made a tool post holder for a die grinder with a cylindrical stone to grind my chuck jaws. I angled it very slightly to cut on the leading edge and it worked perfectly.

+1
Thats the best way to do it.
Carbide tooling would work but only if you have a big heavy machine to use it or it will bounce and flex chipping or shattering tool
You could try making a bushhing first to support boring bar and prevent it bending away cutting area
Grinding gives a better surface finish than running carbide at wrong settings though
I've also made holders to put angle grinder on tool post, real handy for 'attacking' the hardened Yamaha XS 650 flywheels or anything else you need to grind on OD
 
Hi guys I have a Suzuki GSX1100 RR I have redone the wiring but it looks like I missed something. I have electrical power ( constant 12v ) up to the coil packs but no spark. I have changed the cdi and everything exept the signal generator and the coil packs. Do any body know what can be the problem ?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
c.h.stoltz.1 said:
Hi guys I have a Suzuki GSX1100 RR I have redone the wiring but it looks like I missed something. I have electrical power ( constant 12v ) up to the coil packs but no spark. I have changed the cdi and everything exept the signal generator and the coil packs. Do any body know what can be the problem ?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

May want to start a thread in the electrical section.
 
You can buy shaft material that has a nice hard outer surface but is soft enough on the inside to machine.
As an example https://www1.mcmaster.com/#1482K42
 
I got it done. Rather inelegant, but it worked great. https://youtube.com/watch?v=iFUMuCnJDCU&feature=youtu.be
 
Nice,
I have an air grinder that chucks up well in my lathe. Can't say I am happy with the surface finish but I can hit the dimensions I need as you did. It might be the Dremel you have may have better bearings than my setup as well.
 
I have a dumore tool post grinder for my south bend 9, and its often so cumbersome to use that a setup like your little dremel there would be much easier to work around.
 
The problem I ran into is as the cut progresses the grinding stone wore down producing a slight taper in the bore. It was a little tricky but I got a pretty good fit. If I was going to do this more frequently I would make something like this https://m.ebay.com/itm/The-ORIGINAL-Dremel-tool-holder-frame-metal-lathe-1-2-in-sq-shank-/361520655374?nav=SEARCH
 
doc_rot said:
The problem I ran into is as the cut progresses the grinding stone wore down producing a slight taper in the bore. It was a little tricky but I got a pretty good fit. If I was going to do this more frequently I would make something like this https://m.ebay.com/itm/The-ORIGINAL-Dremel-tool-holder-frame-metal-lathe-1-2-in-sq-shank-/361520655374?nav=SEARCH
Everyone should have a flex shaft anyway. They fit conveniently in a holder, or get the right size boring bar holder...

9d766e890e49fd30c7f2b4b5a552c372.jpg





Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
irk miller said:
Everyone should have a flex shaft anyway. They fit conveniently in a holder, or get the right size boring bar holder...




Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

I have the right size boring bar, but even a fresh carbide insert wouldn't cut these bushings. They are the inner race for a needle bearing so they are probably 58-64 HRC
 
Back
Top Bottom