farmer92 said:Those are definitely silencers on the end and not stingers. Can they be repacked?
The end caps look removable, but I haven't checked to see how easy they might be to get off.
farmer92 said:Those are definitely silencers on the end and not stingers. Can they be repacked?
Sonreir said:The end caps look removable, but I haven't checked to see how easy they might be to get off.
Sonreir said:Here're the numbers on the inside of the forks.
ZX600?
clem said:The stock R5 stem will press in to the ZZR lower. I may still have the setup that I took off of my bike. If I do, you can have it for shipping.
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pacomotorstuff said:Hi Matt,
Great project you've got going on.
Regarding the chambers, I can't see from the photos too well, but it looks like the exhaust end caps are riveted on, so just drill them out, remove the caps and pull out the baffle material, which is probably totally plugged with oil. Honestly, I'd repack them and run them, see if you like the power band, cornering clearance, the noise level, stuff like that. Of course the final design / shape depends on what other engine mods you do, but they'll get you back on the road a little sooner and give you a baseline to start from. If you have to cut and add or remove bits to get the power band where you like it, better on a set of used pipes than a set of new, big buck chambers...
Teazer has some excellent comments regarding your project and IMHO, right on the mark re: WM2 (1.85 inch) front and WM3 (2.15 inch) rear rim widths. You're using the long tank, so your weight is pretty far back and you may not get enough weight on the front end to heat up a wider front tire - so something that fits on a WM2 front is a pretty good choice. One of the fastest vintage Yam 350's I've ever seen runs a WM2 front - maybe not quite the same use as your bike is going to see, but gets around the track pretty smartly with the "skinny" rim. Good replica shouldered rims are around and I think the Mike's XS WM3 rear rim should lace up to your drum rear brake, but you might have to look around for a WM2 for a drum front.
Good idea getting bigger forks, just remember to brace the frame (I think Teazer mentioned this already) as the extra loads into the frame may start to do funny things to the handling.
Don't know if the "remove the oil pump and run premix" conversation has come up, but for a street bike, I'd say "don't". I have a bike in storage with 2,800 original miles on it, owner forgot the premix (no, not my gaff), have to totally rebuild the motor. Still better than my Bridgestone, which had 300 miles on it before the DPO pulled the same stunt.
DS7's, R5's and RD350's all make neat race bike replicas; I've attached a couple of photos of customer Jason's RD350 race conversion with one of my TR3 fairings and front and rear fenders on it (he'd already bought the seat from another vendor). Yep, that is an alloy tank and yep, $$$$.
Keep us updated with your project.
Pat
teazer said:On a TZ or TD frame, they need to be braced to delay the inevitable cracking if the rear cross tubes. Leave off the top mount if you rubber mount the motor.
An RD frame is thicker and less prone to cracking than a thin wall TD or TZ frame. I don't think I have ever seen one of those braced on a race bike. The RD frame is small and remarkably stiff. What used to twist all over the place on my street RDs was the swingarm. They are about as stiff as a rice noodle. Good stiff swingarm with new bushes or needle rollers and decent shocks make a huge difference.
Sonreir said:So don't worry about bracing on the R5 frame?
Do you know of any swingers from other models that will swap in without too much fuss?
Sonreir said:This guy?
http://www.motolanna.com/ourshop/prod_2637748-Swingarm-Aluminum-Alloy-SuperLite.html
Looks like it's for the SR500. Any details on what would be required to adapt it?