PODS BOG 74 cb360

First off i know everyones opinion on pods(they suck). I agree but this isnt my bike. Bike is running uni foam pod filters and two 18" mufflers. At idle with the pods off i can look in the carbs and see the slides rise when riding but when i take the bike on the road it bogs after any more than 1/4 throttle with or without the pods. I know that some pods can block the air flow to the diaphragm but these have a longer rubber neck and doesnt seem to come close to it. Plus without the pods it still bogs. Ive tried 100, 105, 110,115 and 125 secondary mains playing with the mixture screws everytime without any real difference. Im thinking my slides just arent rising. Ive seen some people making "air correctors" out of a washer and a piece of pipe, anyone have any luck with this or have any advice on this topic? much appreciated thank you

If you can see the slides rising with the pods off why would they not be rising with them on?

Have the carbs been cleaned THOROUGHLY? Have you gone through a full tune up procedure? Checked compression, timing, cam chain tension, valves, etc? If the basics haven't been covered (he "said it was good" isn't good enough) there's a good chance you're just chasing your tail.

Check this thread out for ballpark jetting advice

http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=38887.0

Checked the diaphragms for tears?

Run it for a few seconds in the flat spot and kill the motor, what do the plugs look like? You need to confirm the questions above first though.

Motor needs to be under load and spark plugs need to be fresh in order for plug chops to be useful.

No where in my statement did I say to cut up a plug and check his tune throughout the range because we know it's not ready for that.

Pulling a plug and visually inspecting wet or dry can be done instantaneously and is very "useful" for the minute it takes...

Wtf are you talking about cutting up plugs.....

It's called a plug chop because you run at a certain throttle range and then cut or "chop" the throttle in order to understand what your mixture looks like in that specific range. In order for a plug reading to be useful, you need to use clean plugs. Common sense.

Chop the plugs...literally

http://kawtriple.com/mraxl/carb/plugchop.htm

Justin

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I stand humbly corrected. That looks like a whole lot of "extra" though, when you can usually plainly see the condition of the plug without actually cutting it apart.

I'm running a 350 with the stock carbs and Uni filters. I sent them to crazypj to modify and they have been spot on ever since their return(obviously, the a/f screws and idle needed to be adjusted).

I believe, running pods or no filter, will give you too much air. I can run my modified carbs fine with no filter.
There is some work that needs to be done in order to run without stock air box-and crazypj is the guy to do it. Reasonable price and quick turn around.

alzcbz said:

I believe, running pods or no filter, will give you too much air.

Click to expand...

You can never have too much air.
However with more air, you do need the correct amount of fuel (A/F ratio) throughout the throttle range and at all rpms under load.

granted im short a few dozen billion brain cells but a stuck advancer not advancing will cause same exact simptoms ,\holms
first you need to check the points gap if its good, how cool, then check with a timing strobed light both l/r to see they are both achiving equal proximity inside the full advance marks,gaps somewhere north of 2500rpm
the beauty of checking and setting in a running situation, you can observe exactly what is happening
you need to have the bike leaned over a bit opposite the stance of the sidestand while strobing to minimize oil spilling out ,its still gonna sprayy a fine mist of oil so dont do it upwind yer mom's underwear on the clothsline
ignition first before carbs especially after a "tuneup"