"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

one thing that i have not seen mentioned that i do use, is an Adhesion Promoter... expectially if i am going to be shooting anything plastic!
here is the one i use... autozone carries a dupicolor that is not to shabby either... I HIGHLY recomend this if shooting plastic because you can not use a self etching primer on plastic, (it wrinkles)... i know most of the stuff we shoot is metal... but for those of us that have a Street fighter project brewing up ;) it realy helps to use this stuff before shooting paint!
 
True i still use it on ABS because with rattle cans the limited amount of flex that it has... i shot buddies CBR without it and the paint chipped away, yet on the old YZF i shot and used it, the paint is still going strong... was it the promoter... no one can say... but to me i consider it my flex, since you can not add that with a rattle can, i use it on any plastics... you do however bring up a good point and are correct in all that you have pointed out
 
boomshakalaka said:
Im confused about the wash prep. Body filler and primer are both porous so it would seem like a bad idea to get them wet with water. Wont both of these trap water against the metal?

Actually, body filler ( I use Dynalite) isn't very absorbent at all. I have wet sanded many many times and never had a problem. My last truck project actually got rained on a few times before I sprayed the primer (bare body filler) and I wiped it down with denatured alcohol, then heated it with a heat gun to evaporate the moisture and sprayed. No problems at all after two years. I think that this is an urban myth about the moisture getting under the filler. I suppose it is possible though, I have just never seen any examples. I always lay a light prime coat before I apply the filler. This is just to counteract the possibilty of moisture/rust under the bondo.
 
Kanticoy said:
I think that this is an urban myth about the moisture getting under the filler.

It is an urban myth. That rust bubbling under filler and all the other problem are cause by poor preperation, ie: filling straight over rust....
 
man, Im learning a lot! I actually did my body filler right over bare metal. I had googled it and some advocated doing it over bare metal, and some said you have to prime first. It seems that as long as you metal is really clean and free of rust its fine to put filler right on it. Also the primer Im using is just rustoleum primer. It doesnt say filler primer or self etching. My tins were sandblasted so they are really clean, and I also read somewhere that the active stuff in self etching primer can have bad reactions with body filler. Again this is just something I read, and seeing as my metal is really clean I didnt see a reason to risk it with self etching primer.
 
Boom, I don’t use any primer under my body filler and I have never had any trouble, I do make sure the metal is prepped properly and ABSOLUTLY NO rust is anywhere on the surface before filler and again before priming. Rustoleum is fine to use for a rattle can job, that is what I use and if you do it right you will have no issues with it. You do rattle can jobs to save $$ and Rustoleum is cheap! It does come in a filling form and a “fast dry” form. I like the filler kind, it is a little thicker. The primer you use really has nothing to do with the quality finish you achieve. The wet sanding, color coats and clear coats paints is what makes the difference! Primer is just a base that insures a good thick protective layer of covering over the metal! It takes all three paints and several layers of each to achieve a proper protective coating using rattle cans. You will get the feel for all of this the more you do it!
 
Forcefanajd, man if you could write a how to on shooting with guns, that would be AWESOME!!!!! i was planning on doing that on my TX when i shot it, but a buddy wanted to paint my tins as a wedding present so he shot them while i was on my honeymoon... i am not going to have to shoot anyting till i do my brothers goldwing and now he is thinking that he wants to rino liner it.
a how to painting with the right equiptment would be KILLER on here! that would be a great addition, hell if you paint for a living adding some pics of mixing, adjusting pressures, thin'n the paint out and additives would be KILLER!
 
JRK5892 said:
Forcefanajd, man if you could write a how to on shooting with guns, that would be AWESOME!!!!! i was planning on doing that on my TX when i shot it, but a buddy wanted to paint my tins as a wedding present so he shot them while i was on my honeymoon... i am not going to have to shoot anyting till i do my brothers goldwing and now he is thinking that he wants to rino liner it.
a how to painting with the right equiptment would be KILLER on here! that would be a great addition, hell if you paint for a living adding some pics of mixing, adjusting pressures, thin'n the paint out and additives would be KILLER!

x2. Bring it. I'll be ding mine all with guns but bikes is different to fences and gates. Bring on the right info!
 
Take your time. Give us a notify on here when you do and we'll all come a runnin!! ;)
 
hmm.. Well Ive already got the primer on the tins, so I dont think I have a choice as Im not taking it down to bare metal again since Id have to redo all my bondo work. Next time Ill get some better primer though.

What exactly does 2k mean though?
 
Forcefan:
I believe primer plays its part! Don’t get me wrong, if I though it did not I would not even use it and therefore produce shity paintwork. I am only saying that this thread was created for RATTLE CAN paint jobs, hints the title of the thread! If you are doing it on the cheap, the rustoleum works great, from much experience of my own. If the primer you speak of is $10 then that is cool and thanks for the tip, however I have painted bikes that I only spent $20 on primer, color paint, clear paint, and DA sand paper! Just to let you know, they look great and I have had many compliments on my work.
 
I do recommend spending a little more, better paints last longer and are easier to work with! Just letting everyone know, I will be checking on the 2k primers. I am interested in learning more about gun spraying and would like to see a thread on that and bodywork!
 
where can I get a wide range of 2k base colors? I was originally planning to use montana spray paint because they offer a ton of cool colors, and I figured that 2 part rattle can primer that troybilt used will do a good job of protecting the less than tough base coat.
 
So I thought the rain would be gone tomorrow, but weather.com says its gonna rain all day. Is it a bad idea to lay paint while its raining out? (Id be in my garage obviously) Is the humidity in the air going to cause big problems?
 
forcefanajd said:
if your spraying anything that doesnt have a hardener in it it will "blush", if your using 2k primer, then regular base coat (base coat wont blush), then 2k clear coat then you will be fine. if your worried about the base coat blushing just heat the tank with a hair dryer to take the moisture out of the primer from it being in the damp air then spray a coat of base coat then hit it with the hair dryer again and keep doing that till its coated completely (usually about 3 even coats). ive never seen base coat blush but ive always sprayed in a booth.....

great, thanks. I didnt hear back so I just went ahead and sprayed. It seemed to have come out fine, I got a few runs, hoepfully I can sand them down without breaking through the primer.
 
actually I just laid the primer down. I still need to see about getting car quest to mix me some paint, I think I know the color Im going to go with. Its called cappuccino frost metallic and came on the 2000-2005 impalas.

2G1WF52E139398501_02.jpg
 
ya that was my plan of attack, however I wasnt sure if I should wet or dry sand it. Thanks for the tips.

And ya I was kinda thinking of maybe leaning towards more of an off white instead of this really really light gray, but I think I like the gray better. I have to figure out what Im gonna do for stripes or pinstriping or whatever.
 
ok, so I found a carquest paint shop that will mix paint and put it in a rattle can. Its the only one that does it anywhere around and its an hour away, so Im trying to figure out if its worth it. I gave them a call and asked a few questions. They said that they dont mix in any hardener. Does this sound right? If its just an aerosol enamel paint, then whats the difference between it and rustoleum, krylon, or montana? Also they said that they dont have the same brand clear but just the off the shelf ones in spray cans. Wouldnt I be better off going with this stuff for my clear: http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm ?

sorry I know Im flooding this thread with questions, but I just want to get everything right since its my first time doing this.
 
i was just typing that! ha ha ha that 2k looks to be ligit stuff man! i was blown away by troys scoot in it...
 
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