EGLI frame, TR1 engine, build from scratch

Well, this looks interesting. Do you have plans drawn up on what the completed bike will look like. I'm sure you do, your just going to surprise of us all at the end, I hate surprises. Looking great, keep the photos coming.
 
extremely jealous of that fab shop!

And those skills! really impressive!


Following this one... I see a future BOTM!
 
nice work, would like to see rake and trail numbers, as well as planned f/r loading weights, swingarm angle, sprocket to rear wheel diameter ratio, rear shock velocity ratio and progressive/regressive characteristics :D <- some of us here are truly bike nerds
 
I would also like to see the chassis numbers? I've always been interested in chassis more than the engines. Nice work. I was wondering about the top tube joint to the steering head tube. My question, is this the Proper way to join two tubes of different diameters? I'm asking because I don't know the answer? Is this the way the Egli frames were built and that is why you did it that way? I perhaps would have done it differently?
Cheers, 50gary
 
i feel sorry for you having to deal with all that cheap equipment...ha ha
nice set up and project....
good luck,joe @ vcycle
www.joesvcycle.com
 
Gentlemen,

First of all, thanks for the nice words :) of course it's hard to deal with the fab shop! it's hard work... my hands get dirty... I sometimes hurt myself... Can you imagine the horror! ;) .....

Off course it's very nice to be able to use a shop like this, it makes the build possible in the first place. I truely respect the people that build the most awesome bikes in their sheds at home.

Very good to see there are living bikenerds here as well!

My chassis numbers so far:

Rake: 24,5 degrees (adjustable with different inserts in steering head)
Trail: 97mm (depends a bit on tire size)
Wheelbase: 1435 (still open to change a bit, as my swingarm isn't cut to length)
F/R weight distribution: To be discovered
Swingarm angle: Have to check the CAD model after the weekend, swingarm will have some degree of ajustment with offest inserts

@50Gary: In general the steering head tube was welded in this way in EGLI frames, my "extra" reinforcement piece was not in the EGLI frames, but my steering head tube is a bit longer/higher mounted than in most frames i saw pictures of... so I made the decision to weld in some extra sheetmetal. What would have been your solution?

Made some progress yesterday with aligning my swingarm (all fits well, no offset sprockets or spoke paterns needed for the chain). So delivered my hubs to the wheel guy today, he'll lace up some nice 18" excel rims with stainless spokes ;D

Enjoy the weekend people!

Best regards,

Loek
 
In reply #12, 5th picture showing the detail of the joining of the two different tubes. I would have cut a radius (I believe it's 2" 4" diameter?) on the end of the large tube and formed it so the radius would contact the small head tube in a semi-circle. Probably would have to be heated then weld it to the head tube. Viewed from overhead the large diameter tube would taper from the 4" dia. to the width of the diameter of the head tube. This would eliminate the flat end piece made up of the "chord and arc." Total less inches welded and a simple design? I'm mean this as shop talk over a pint of beer not in any way critical, as I mentioned I thought your way was the way Egli had done it but I wasn't sure.
I like your additional head tube brace, I'm doing an Aermacchi 250 replica and will use virtually the same method. Keep up the good work, excellent and interesting to boot. This is why this forum is enjoyable for me.
Cheers, 50gary
 
I'm interested to see how you're going to make your rake and swing arm angles adjustable, are you going to use something similar to an eccentric cam or offset bearing cups? ??? Do tell, I used to work for a small mechanical design firm (I'm no engineer) and enjoyed seeing/assembling the creative ways people would come up with these solutions. I still try to do a little in SW every now and again but it's definatly a skill you lose with time if not practiced.

BTW I'm seriously jealous of your facilities and your welder's skills, makes me miss working at the M.E.shop. What was your address again.... I think I have some leave coming up and I know a few guys that are into the whole clandestine thing, just need a truck, a.... oh.... did I say that out loud.... ;D
 
Hey people,

Spent the evening machining some parts for the bike again. Ajustable swingarm is ready (in parts). Just a short picture update :)

Excentric for swingarm:
IMG_0009.JPG


Pieces needed to assemble the swingarm:
IMG_0016.JPG


Swingarm axle partly assembled:
IMG_0017.JPG


All the parts in the frame as mockup:
IMG_0019.JPG


Back position:
IMG_0023.JPG


Front position:
IMG_0022.JPG


The mechanism has 24mm of ajustabillity :) I'm happy ;D and I'll see if it works and is needed in the end...

@50Gary:
I think your solution for the steeringhead will work as well... I didn't think about it your way, it saves some welding wich is good beacause of less heat input, but maybe it brings more "tension" in the large diameter tube because the tube is deformed before welding. My experience tells me that deformed material (heated or not) will release it's tension after welding and maybe that will deform the construction of the steering head during or after welding... who will tell.

It's very nice to have discussions like this for sure! All our bikes get better because of this :)

@1969honda:
I hope this makes clear how the swingarm thingy works. The steering head is somthing different. When it needs changing the angle I have to machine new aluminium inserts... Not a fast job but it is possible and better than grinding and welding the steeringhead again.

Enjoy the evening!

Best regards,

Loek
 
So cool, these are the types of threads I spend a lot of time scouring the net for :D

Really nice shop and very cool build. Keep the pics coming :)
 
That's exactly what I had in my head when you mentioned the adjustable angle! Are you going to be welding some type of a clamping mechanism on the back of the swing arm boss around the cut outs to hold the position of the eccentric cam? Or is there more mystery to the puzzle? splines to index off of? maybe a key way?
 
Good morning all,

@honda1969:
Yes... Two pieces of tube, welded at the back will deliver the clamp system, and some sort of indexing is on the way... it'll be a simple stripe I guess. And a tool like the one from an angle grinder (two simple holes in the aluminium part) will do the ajustment. So no special tricks to be expected there :D

@Greg-NWO:
Thanks! i'll keep the pics coming for sure!

Now to work :)

Best regards,

Loek
 
Hey people,

Short update with some pics.

Front sprocket fits! (XS650 sprocket final ratio 18/38):
IMG_0024.JPG


Frame back in jig:
IMG_0026.JPG


Start of mountingpoit rear cilinder:
IMG_0032.JPG


Mountingpoint of rear cilinder in pieces:
IMG_0035.JPG


And it goes together:
IMG_0039.JPG


And last, insert for stearinghead:
IMG_0036.JPG


That was last night's progression, to be continued!

Enjoy your weekend!

Best regards,

Loek
 
Can we stick to simple stuff like particle physics and string theory. This beast is making my head hurt. Amazing results so far Loek.
 
Leokm,
I went the same route as you for the sprocket - XS650Direct in Canada is the MikesXS distributor, but I used the optional 520 sprocket.
I don't see any capture method on your countershaft sprocket - are you just going to modify the locking plate like I did (I posted photos on one of the other XV920RH / TR1 threads on the DTT site) or???
I was looking at one of my friend's son's KTM MX bikes and all they use is an external Circlip - simplicity itself! I went through an industrial supplier's catalogue and found one the correct size to fit the XV / TR countershaft - just haven't gotten around to buying one yet and trying it out.
Let me know about your locking mechanism.
Love your frame - you're building the bike Yamaha should have.
Regards,
Pat Cowan,
Vintage Motorcycle Fiberglass
 
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