Indeed - teachers come in all shapes and sizes Nybz. And it's a fool who thinks otherwise. I took a bit of a beating over there, but I'm totally ok with that. The CB1100f forum is a different beast than DTT but no worse off for it. The guys over there know their onions and no mistake. They've forgotten more about the SuperSport than I'll ever know. Amazing help and resource.
So, a productive few days. Got the newly bored-to-823cc and honed block back, completely with repaired fins, came back mint -
(need to get a photo of the fins, will do today). Someone over on the other forum mentioned S-100 and pressure washers. I have the S-100, and just last week my neighbour offered me his washer whenever I needed it. Penny drop. Balconies could use a good going over too so made that happen -
- then sprayed a load of S-100 and waited 20 mins for it to do it's thing. Kids, I discovered the coolest way to get totally soaked this summer! It's easy - line up your air-cooled cylinder block (the more cylinders the better) on a stool at about knee height. Doesn't matter what engine it comes from, the important take away here is
air-cooled. It's all about the fins you see. Stand close -
really close - and have at it with the pressure washer. All those fins, nooks and crannies will have you Absolutely Soaked almost immediately. It's great. Fun times.
Dammit if the S-100 didn't work a charm though, especially between the cylinders. Wiped the bores down with some engine oil to prevent flash rust, job done.
After some encouragement and gentle persuasion/peer pressure figured f*ck it let's split the cases. After the drama of the last post, it became very obvious that the rotor really does need to come off when attempting the job. Turns out the rear axle of this bike is a perfect fit into the rotor and assumes admirable chops as the pulling tool. Once I got the rotor bolt out, threaded in the axle and whaled on the thing with a heavy hammer until eventually the rotor popped off -
- and the cases split no pasa nada -
Pulled the main crankshaft bearings, the upper bearings all looked good -
but the backs of them are showing copper -
- does that matter?
The lower bearings look ok but two are showing copper -
In that case, do I need to replace all the lower bearings? Or just the two showing copper? They're about $10 each so on the big scheme of things, doable.
The con rod bearings all look good -
I'm going to replace the two cam chains, some o-rings and oil seals, I'm not sure about the primary chain, and also want to replace the rubber dampers in the primary shaft. Anything else I should be on the look out for?