1976 Honda GL1000

john sorry about the bolts been real around here

most just hook the dyna power feed up to the acc terminal on the left side inner panel of the false tank
 
pidjones said:
You sure it isn't spliced into the power for the meters? They use 7 volts.

Sent from my Le Pan TC802A using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

No, it was working just fine and the bike was running when it just died. I couldn't get it to restart and started trouble shooting, that's when I found that it wasn't getting 12V.
 
cxman said:
john sorry about the bolts been real around here

most just hook the dyna power feed up to the acc terminal on the left side inner panel of the false tank
Click to expand...

No, worries Murray. I got a good deal on a set of them. I'm pretty sure the accessory terminal didn't come about until the 1100, the Dyna instructions specify splicing into the green/white wire running to the flasher relay.
 
i will go check on my 78 and let you know if it hooked there its been a long time since i did it but i seem to remember other wise
 
Lesson learned. Don't trust 30 year old fuses. They will look intact until you pull them out of the fuse block and they fall apart in your hand. Once I figured it out and replaced the fuse it fired right up. First time I've gotten to ride it since replacing the ignition and it runs better. I think the ignition may have been intermittent issues leading up to its death.

I put this thread in Restorations because it didn't fit anywhere else but it was never intended to be a real restoration. I was just supposed to be a get it reliable and presentable and back on the road kind of deal. I think I'm basically at that point now. I'm sure small fixes and improvements will continue though.
 
Was it the original one with replaceable filemint? First thing I replace on all old Hondas s that main fuse then the glass tubes for near auto blade fuses.
 
Replaceable filament? I dunno, I've never seen one of those. It was the glass tube type one for the turn signal and brake light circuit. I pulled it out of the holder to get a better look at it and as I turned it over one of the metal end caps came off in my hand. Replaced it and the magic started working again.
 
Check your main fuse by the battery if it is still a black plastic housing with 2 nuts holding a strip of metal change it as the crack and cause all kinds of gremlins
 
It's been quite a while since I updated this. I've made a few upgrades. Got this awesome Vetter from Murray (cxman), it makes the early morning ride to work much nicer.



Here is where I'm at now. Things are sorted out pretty good and I've been riding as much as possible. This thing eats highway miles for breakfast, lunch and dinner with highway mile snacks in between. I need to get a new set of rocker cover gaskets as the ones I have leak all over my boots. It needs a few other tweaks but it gets me down the road and that's good enough for now.
 
john do a careful check and make sure it is the rocker the sneaky things can dry out a cam seal then become shoe oilers

and they blame it on the rocker cover gaskets

pull the rockers give them and the heads a wipe then throw a light coat of rtv and see if that cures the problem if not

its probably a cam seal

you can also drill the bottom plate on the air cleaner put a fitting in and hook the crank vent up that might help
 
I think Murray may be right about the cam seal. I took a look today and it looks like there is oil coming from the left timing belt cover. I haven't pulled it off for further investigation but I'd bet that cam seal isn't healthy and that's why my left boot is so well lubricated.

Today on the way home she started running like crap all of a sudden. It would idle but when I tried to accelerate it wouldn't go. When I opened it up to near full throttle and the second barrel opened up it would accelerate all of a sudden. I limped on home as best I could, let it cool down and opened up the carb for investigation. I found a little piece of trash in the primary barrels main jet. As soon as I got that cleaned out it went back to running normally. Don't know how if made it past my fuel filter but I got it resolved.
 
most fuel filters are 75 microns nominal (small gravel) a lot of them are 100 microns (small bolders)

i use the emgo sintered bronze element aluminum ones they are around 40-70 and i have a tank with some fine crap in it

so i have 2 one before the fuel pump and one after that way the crap stays out of my carb and the fuel pump is only a few minutes

to clean out the carb is way more work

ps take the top off your fuel pump and clean the check valve plates off they will have some crap in there probably if it made it to the carb
 
So, I've come to realize that my suspension is clapped out. I knew it was soft when I was solo but I took my wife for a long ride the other day and noticed how much easier it was to scrape in turns. With the extra weight it bottoms out rather easily and doesn't take much leaning to scrape the exhaust. If I get some money in the near future I'll look into replacing that.
 
i have a spare set of good 1100 air shocks if you want them

and i know what you mean i did not realize how bad my front springs were till

i put new progressives in last week wow amazing that 80 or so dollars can make such a big change

are you going to charlotte saturday?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom