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So I got another piston from my other engine, and it fits the new sleeve i got. Now i just need to swap out the sleeves. Would a hydraulic press work? or would i have to be drilled out?
the old piston
the replacement one, does it look alright? I went over it with a wirewheel and steel wool to smooth the sides. but im not too sure about these dents.
I can not for the life of me, get the top ring out! I tried boiling it last night to no success. I might have to cut it out with precision dremel-ing.
I also read that putting the head in the oven might expand the metal enough to allow the old sleeve to slip out and freeze the new one to slip it in.
Re: 1971 CL175 cafe (got the pistons sorted out, waiting on parts)
Then rings will not come out of the piston Im trying to use, So im just going to polish up the sides of the scared one, its not THAT bad. and I was able to change out the sleeve in the head using my oven. The aluminum expands faster than the steel so it just came right out, and put the new frozen sleeve in. Making sure to pound it every minute so it would be forced back out and gave it a flush surface for the gasket to go against. Now I just need my gaskets....
So i scrapped the old top end and valves and got a new set from the donor motor, it was cleaner and in better condition.
I swapped over the chain tensioner, the breaker points and cleaned the valves.
And my gaskets FINALLY came in, after a month of waiting, i can make some real progress now!
slipping the newly finished sleeves and pistons
hardest bit about the whole engine was keeping the chain taught and on the sprocket below while threading it up through the top end, all by myself...
took me three attempts and i finally had the timing right
getting that master link on
as it sits right now
I'm going to polish the side covers and put them on later today
So I've made some progress in the past couple weeks.
I got the engine in and the electrics rewired and working
horn, high and low beam and starter switch work, i have somehow lost my rear taillight in the shop...
Putting life blood in the engine, found out that I did everything right because there are no leaks and the compression tested great!
Also started the rust removal process, its REAL bad in the tank, but not rusted through, if this dosent fully work, could anyone recommend any chemical solutions?
There are numerous caustic solutions used to remove rust. You should be able to get a good job with the electric current. I was surprised how long it took for my tank. I pulled it after waiting over night and thought this isn't working. Two days later it looked much, much better.
dont have a video yet, but it runs, huge leap forward! I'm going with the original braker points until i have the $$ for an electronic conversion, also still need a chain
got an oil leak at the points. any way to fix this? also only runs with brake cleaner in the intake, does thi smean its too lean and i have to go up a couple sizes in jet and/or pilot size?
got an oil leak at the points. any way to fix this? also only runs with brake cleaner in the intake, does thi smean its too lean and i have to go up a couple sizes in jet and/or pilot size?
Probobly an o-ring or gasket behind the points housing. Look up the parts fische and see what's there to stop oil from leaking. As far as starting issues... Could be a few things. My first guesses: Timing is off. Points are off. Weak spark. Float bowls out of adjustment.
When trying to start the bike WITHOUT starting fluid, do you smell fuel? Clean your spark plugs really well. Install and crank her over a few times. Do they come out wet and stinking like gas? If not... You're not getting any go juice, or not "enough". See what happens there and than move on to the next steps.
Ok so it runs and can move itself along. I put on the chain the other day and with the help of some vice grips, was able to manipulate the trottle enough to get on it and drive it down the street. It idles extremely high right now, but I still have a bunch left to do, I'm just glad it has power and torque!
I also got a rare Yamaha RD60 tank from a guy in dallas. My next problem is modifying the frame of the bike to get it to fit correctly, I was thinking of making indentions on the frame and leaving the tank alone, shouldnt affect strength right? It's only a 175 lol
you can see it still need to go down an inch in the back.
and since there is no vacumm line on the carbs o figure a straight line of fuel would work, anyone think otherwise?
Don't modify the frame. The only right way to use that tank would be to modify the tunnel. That would be a crime. Sell me the tank, and I'll send you a rad old Honda tank I have that would be easier to fit up.
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