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Oh gawd no, I mean regular sportbike fare. Why re-invent the wheel or shock in this case. Linkage is simple, all you need is the proper pick up point on the lower rear of the chassis and copy the factory set up. Most are 2 to 1 ratio and thus are a compact installation. I have three GSX-r shocks here in the garage I'll donate one if you go the Suzuki route eye on top clevis on the lower. They are quite large units compared to some other. They can be rebuilt and set up but don't have the level of adjustment of an aftermarket shock. I like Penske not quite as expensive as the Ohlins. I have a Fox twin clicker on the Yamaha and it works well although a bit heavier than the latest gear. I know you know all what I'm saying, just garage chat kicking out ideas?
Cheers, 50gary
Well the project has taken a back seat just lately but I am now going to try and sort out the electrical stuff on the bike which is my least favourite part (mostly because I don't know what I'm doing). Its a bit of a headache because the bike started out as a 1972 T500 (points ignition) but it was then fitted with a 1975 GT500 engine (electronic ignition). There are some dubious looking connections and of course several wires not even connected! I am just working my way through at this point identifiying parts and such, also gathering new parts. So far I have a new ignition switch, hydraulic rear brake light switch and a handlebar switch for lights turn signals and horn. The battery in the pic is the same physical size as the one i'll be using but it will be a 6ah rather than the 4ah shown.
Ok I got fed up trying to figure out the electrical stuff, didn't get anywhere so I decided to work on the foot controls. I am using the old footrests from my Triumph Daytona but not sure if I will use the Triumph brake and gear shift levers yet. I got the brackets made and tacked to the frame, won't be welding them until I strip down to the frame for powder coat.
John, you're a man after my own heart ha ha That's great and so simple. Some guys over think a simple solution. Always fun to drop in and see your work. Is there a small gusset behind the bracket?
Cheers, 50gary
this bike is coming out great! I hope you finish it by next month as planned ( I said the same thing last month) Damn electrical! has anyone ever made a wiring diagram that doesn't look as confusing as a Train map???
Split it into multiple simple circuits. Start with ignition and wire that through. Then do the charge circuit, and then headlights and add tail lights and brake lights
I usually start with a wiring diagram of the motor donor bike and highlight one circuit then take another copy and trace out the next one. Rinse and repeat.
Often I find it easier to draw each circuit out on a scratch pad/legal pad so I can see what I'm working with. Multimeter is a useful tool when working out switch connections with multiple wires and positions.
Split it into multiple simple circuits. Start with ignition and wire that through. Then do the charge circuit, and then headlights and add tail lights and brake lights
I usually start with a wiring diagram of the motor donor bike and highlight one circuit then take another copy and trace out the next one. Rinse and repeat.
Often I find it easier to draw each circuit out on a scratch pad/legal pad so I can see what I'm working with. Multimeter is a useful tool when working out switch connections with multiple wires and positions.
Got the brake side done, decided to use the Triumph brake pedal and I'll use the gear shifter as well just need to get a linkage rod made up for that. Also have to cut down the original shift lever and braze weld an eye on it for the rod end to connect to.
Will be making the battery tray today. Just ordered my oil tank from US Plastics, so should have that done next week as well.
Great progress. Those stock zinc based "VM32" are just for mock up yes? They are very different, and heavy, compared to normal aluminum VM carbs and not so good to jet. They appear to be the "homopressure" carbs that Suzuki used to tweak the fuel curve and are somewhat problematic on a performance motor.
Thanks. Eric suggested using 34mm Mikunis but I am not sure if 32's (new) would be better. I plan to buy the new carbs from Sudco or is there a better supplier?
Sudco (for the VM34's) are good but not the lowest price. How ever they should be able to supply (with Eric's advise) initial jetting that's very close to correct. Idle jets and mains are not too costly but make sure you get the correct slides right off (air valve) Your rear sets are the business. I might consider doing the heads in gold to match the pegs.
Cheers, 50gary
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