YZF750/1000R - The Fly 5

canyoncarver said:
Well, it's only been a year,....

Good deal. Glad I got in early enough, then. We should still have another three or fours years worth of content on this thread. ;D
 
Fresh rubber. Dunlop GPR300, front will be soon.
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I took the wheel/tire into the Yamaha guys in town first thing this morning and it was ready by lunch. Got it home and had to super clean everything at the bikes ass end. I installed new rear caliper pads and bolted it back together before bedtime.
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I'm going to give it a shot at repairing the fairings. The PO had dropped the bike and cracked the left side pretty good. The only damage on the right is the turn signal mount area. I'm going to use old abs plastic and acetone to make an abs glue paste and a heat gun, soldering iron, superglue etc.. to try and make decent repairs. I may resort to some resin, we'll see.
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That's a nasty crack. I found teh best way for that sort of extensive repair is to plastic weld it. I bough a cheap plastic welder which is like a small heat gun with very small nozzle and a compressed air supply. I use my air compressor and dial down the delivery pressure. Resin and glue work but not as well as welding. I had an FZR400 fairing missing most of one top "ear" and rebuilt it out of sections scavenged from a Kawasaki tail section that had sections with the same curvature, but that was quite an assembly job.

Yours should be weldable.
 
I've had pretty good luck with plastic welding in the past.

For something that size, I'd be grabbing the G/flex (the West System stuff I used on the Van Van). Its well worth the buy in price and it has some good flex once fully cured, which is why I like it for plastics. It's designed to adhere to and repair plastics.
 
teazer said:
That's a nasty crack. I found teh best way for that sort of extensive repair is to plastic weld it. I bough a cheap plastic welder which is like a small heat gun with very small nozzle and a compressed air supply. I use my air compressor and dial down the delivery pressure. Resin and glue work but not as well as welding. I had an FZR400 fairing missing most of one top "ear" and rebuilt it out of sections scavenged from a Kawasaki tail section that had sections with the same curvature, but that was quite an assembly job.

Yours should be weldable.

I'm hoping so. I think I'll give the plastic welding a shot first as it gives me yet another reason to buy a tool. I have other stuff to fix with it as well. What does your gun look like Teazer? All the ones I'm finding start around 60$ and go up from there.
 
advCo said:
I've had pretty good luck with plastic welding in the past.

For something that size, I'd be grabbing the G/flex (the West System stuff I used on the Van Van). Its well worth the buy in price and it has some good flex once fully cured, which is why I like it for plastics. It's designed to adhere to and repair plastics.

I may pick up some of it, looks very handy to have around. I've looked at it before but I'm going to try and weld/glue it up first.
 
like this one http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/post-plasticwelder.jpg. Probably came from HF though I don't remember for sure. Now I look and see there are dozens of designs out there and HF has three choices all different to the one I have.
 
teazer said:
like this one http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/07/post-plasticwelder.jpg. Probably came from HF though I don't remember for sure. Now I look and see there are dozens of designs out there and HF has three choices all different to the one I have.

Thanks for that link, it was confirmation of what I was looking at HF for. I picked this up on the way home. Like you did, I'll just dial my compressor down to 4-5psi. I've got a Dremel with the right bits for running a V groove and a heat gun, etc. This hot air welder looks like fun. I have scrap abs but I picked up cheap abs rods at HF also.
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Just remember that they get hot enough to make for some sever burns if you are clumsy or careless.

Good idea to get some practice on spare bits of abs first.
 
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