oldrookie said:
Great stuff in that post Hurco550. Have an HF about 10 minutes from here, so off I go.
Interested in your statement above about "upon inspection." How do I inspect them to know whether mine are also weak/stuck? Can get the banjo seals at Earl's on Gasoline Alley, so will likely follow your lead on replacing those too.
Thanks man. I simply watched the oil lines after i fired it up and saw air going back from the banjo fittings on the case (aka the wrong way)
An easy test to see if the check valves are stuck would be to block one end of the banjo fittings where it bolts to the case and pump oil back towards the pump from the other fitting. Oil should not go past the union where the check valve is. If it does, continue to flush the lines with alcohol till they are goop free and start to seat again. Continue testing til the desired results are achieved.
I bought those seals through, mc-master carr. If you can get them locally I guarantee that they will be cheaper lol
Once it is time to fire it up, it is a good idea to run some pre mix in the tank until everthing is thoroughly purged out in the auto lube system. It will be a bit rich with oil, but to much oil is the lesser of two evils than not enough.
Also, remember that the oil pump doesn't move fluid very rapidly, especially at idle, so don't panic if you don't see whatever little air bubbles you have left moving through the system in a hurry.
there is a procedure to 'calibrate" your pump to the throttle opening as well. There should be a threaded cap over the slide tube on one carb. upon removal, you open the cap to view the slide. you open the slide til you can see a mark on the slide and at that position the arm on the oil pump should be lined up at a mark on the pump itself..