My Suzi T500 Project *It's Alive Video*

Re: My Suzi T500 Project

I hadn't really thought about bracing that area, but it would be easy enough to do.
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

More progress. Rear motor mounts are done!
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Man very nice work ! looking very clean
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Ok guys now I have got the bottom end back in I am relieved to see that chain rub on the top of the swing arm is going to be a non issue which is a relief! I will be making an offset counter sprocket using the old sprocket (15t -530) welded to a new (16t - 520) sprocket with a spacer welded between the two. The big issue however is the rear sprocket position, I am going to have to do some major surgery to the cush drive to get the sprocket moved over sufficiently.
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

John, I expect you mean moving the rear sprocket to the right? How wide is the rear wheel and the rear tire? I ground the teeth off the old 530 sprocket then turned it round on the lathe. Put it on the spline, then the new 520 counter sprocket, tack welded them to each other in place. Then I knew they were concentric. Then I removed them and finished welded them in the vice. I had a "dish" cut into the new sprocket so the lock tab washer could fit along with the nut. I had to narrow the sprocket carrier by .375" along with shortening the sprocket studs to clear the inside of the swingarm. I took stock off the sprocket mating surface of the carrier and shortened the lug studs. It worked out fine. The wheel I used was a Suzuki SV 650 17" x 4.5" the original wheel was 3.00" With .375 offset counter sprocket and .375" narrower on the sprocket carrier it fit fine. This was for my XS650 Yamaha but the process is the same. The 520 chain gains another .0625" of chain to frame clearance and .0625" tire to chain clearance. I'll be interested to see your method.
Cheers,50gary
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Gary, I think my method will be very similar to what you are describing although I may have to weld a small spacer between my two counter sprockets. The rear wheel I am using is from a Kawi 650 which is 4.5" wide which i consider to be the ideal width. Tire is a 165 michelin supermoto slick. I have to move the sprocket to right yes, approximately 20mm which will take some tricky mods, including but not limited to removing material from the cush drive rubber inserts!

How's the 360 coming along?
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

John, that sound's nearly the same as my XS 650 set up. I used a 4.5'' width wheel and a Metzeler Sportec 160
The RT360 is creeping along waiting for some parts to come, yesterday I did get another gas tank, I don't know if anyone else will like it but I like it a lot. 1968/69 old school I may post a picture just of that?
Cheers, 50gary
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

How did you machine the splines out of the new 520 sprocket once you had the old (530) sprocket tacked to it? Those splines are hardened, I had a bit of trouble machining the old sprocket round on the outside after I had cut the teeth off with a grinder. I used a T/C lathe tool but it still didn't like it! I suspect that the whole sprocket is hardened not just the teeth and splines.
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Slow your speed down to less than 100 rpms. Grind a small radius on your tool bit (I assume you are using ACT or similar carbide bits?) Cut away from the spindle instead of toward it with a large angle on your bit (basically "dragging the bit" across the metal. Use lots of coolant/oil and you'll need to resharpen the bit about a dozen times. I cut hardened pieces all the time (nitride, stellite, 4140, etc) that's about the best way I've found to do it. Just a machinist's $0.02. Hope that helps.
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Jewbacca said:
Slow your speed down to less than 100 rpms. Grind a small radius on your tool bit (I assume you are using ACT or similar carbide bits?) Cut away from the spindle instead of toward it with a large angle on your bit (basically "dragging the bit" across the metal. Use lots of coolant/oil and you'll need to resharpen the bit about a dozen times. I cut hardened pieces all the time (nitride, stellite, 4140, etc) that's about the best way I've found to do it. Just a machinist's $0.02. Hope that helps.
Thanks for the help, I'll try slowing down.
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Say, thanks for the machining tip, I'm going to write that one down. We went through some bits to do the operation it is hard stuff. Most counter sprockets are chromoly to my knowledge. To remove the old teeth grinding is the way.
Cheers, 50gary
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

I also got the redundant rear frame parts cut off today and made one of the rear wheel spacers. It's nice to be moving forward! Now I have to try and decide what direction to go with the tank and seat/tail unit.
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Got the sprocket machined down thanks to Jewbacca's tip, see the pic below. Feed is going to the right away from the chuck.
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Next job is the rear sprocket carrier. I have to remove just over 13mm from the sprocket seating surface but I've been unable to get the studs out. I locked double nuts on there but couldn't move any of them. I will try using some heat but I really didn't want to do that.
 

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Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Ouch, I don't mean to try to make you feel bad but my mod used a Suzuki Katana600/Bandit600/SV650 rear hub and the five not six "studs" are loose, held in place by the cush drive rubbers and stopped with a "flat" on the lug bolt heads. Real easy. Having said that, I really like the light weight look of your wheels.
Cheers, 50gary
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

johnu said:
I will try using some heat but I really didn't want to do that.

Why not? Heat is exactly what you need in this case.
I use some propane/butane torch for removing studs like these.
Don't be afraid to spoil the paint, it can stand quite high temperatures!

Good luck!
Sven
 
Re: My Suzi T500 Project

Yes, I will likely have to use heat I just didn't want to damage the seals and bearings as they only have about 800 miles on them.
 
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