Cb360 Reassembly Help

Probably. You can hook it up and find out. If you get the wires in the incorrect order, it will just work differently (or not at all), so feel free to experiment.
 
Got everything connected and working.
The only thing that is not is the starter. When I push the button I hear the switch but the starter does not turn. Does this mean the starter is bad and needs to be rebuilt? Or should I check for something else.

Thank you everyone for all the help.
 
Could be starter (try bypassing the solenoid directly to the starter terminal with a jumper cable), solenoid (they carry a lot of current and the contacts get burnt), or low battery charge.
 
I should've thought to put the battery charger on when doing that, I will do that as soon as I get home thank you!

Another thing, what is the best method to making points wires? Putting the wire in a ring terminal and putting it in that way? Or is there a special terminal I can get for it?
 
I use these when making the points wires:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/34

For the side that connects to coils, these will do:
http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/13
 
The master cylinder unit I have sorta turned out to be a piece of junk. When I was clamping it to the bars, alternating between tightening each screw to make sure it fit evenly and clamped well... it stripped the bottom screw hole... because it is cast aluminum vs. a steel screw.
Anybody have any experience with any well made modern master cylinders? Wilwood actually has a reasonably priced.

https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList?group=Handlebar%20Master%20Cylinder
 
Piston will be too big at 5/8". Never fussed on Willwood on motorcycles, HD used them at one time and they never got sizes matched so brakes were crap. (may have been a design feature?) Nothing wrong with cast master cylinders, just about every single one you'll find is a machined casting, including cars, trucks, buses, etc.. You were just unlucky with the one you had. Contrary to You Tube backyard casting video's, a lot can go wrong with castings if temperatures, quench, etc are 'wrong' Grain size, trapped gasses and strength are compromised
 
crazypj said:
Piston will be too big at 5/8". Never fussed on Willwood on motorcycles, HD used them at one time and they never got sizes matched so brakes were crap. (may have been a design feature?) Nothing wrong with cast master cylinders, just about every single one you'll find is a machined casting, including cars, trucks, buses, etc.. You were just unlucky with the one you had. Contrary to You Tube backyard casting video's, a lot can go wrong with castings if temperatures, quench, etc are 'wrong' Grain size, trapped gasses and strength are compromised

You're right, casting can be great. This one happened to suck. I may just try a helicoil till I decide on one I really think is worth the money.
 
I would get it all connected up, filled and bled then keep pressure on it for 24~36 hrs. If it's a bad casting it mat be porous? Would suck even more if that happened and it screwed up paint. (or dismantle it and check bore finish?) I like some of the MX/Enduro M/C but they are normally 11mm bore which is a bit small. They develop a lot of pressure but not much 'feel' with stock caliper (pressure is high enough you can feel caliper flexing open)
 
Current problem found when trying to set ignition timing:

I’m not getting power to the coils. I checked with multimeter from black and white wire. I checked at the blue and black wires coming from the coils themselves.

Possible issues?
 
Black/white wire gets power from the kill switch on the right control switch. Check to make sure your switch is set to the run position and also that the black wire on the control is plugged into a black wire in the harness.
 
Sonreir said:
Black/white wire gets power from the kill switch on the right control switch. Check to make sure your switch is set to the run position and also that the black wire on the control is plugged into a black wire in the harness.

Haha it’s funny cause I just thought that. The button was switched to the “on” position, so I switched it to the “off” position and now I’m getting power there. Did I wire something backwards?
 
Dammit. I think I may have sent you one of our CDI ones. You want me to sent the other style?
 
How do I verify if it’s one of the cdi styles? Before we do that might as well make sure
 
If the bike runs in the OFF position, but not in the ON position.

Functionally it will work, but the switch will be backwards.
 
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