CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.

Whelp. I wasn't planning on doing a tear down and rebuild, but . . .

Rode it to the corner store, and on the way (luckily about 2 blocks from my house) something popped (not a backfire pop, but a shearing metal sort of pop) and the engine stopped running and the kick lever is stiff.

May try to sell it. I don't feel like a worthy adversary for this bike. Need to get an EX500 and just ride the piss out of it.

-B
 
Cam chain probably broke. You don't have to get discouraged quite yet. Open it up and assess the damage. A tappet screw may have jammed in-between the cam chain sprocket and the chain. You learn a lot about the motor if you have to tear it down.
 
Cursh said:
Thanks again Eric. =) retuned this morning following your steps and holy hell did she fire right up.

-Ben.

Happy to help. ;D

Get w PJ he can make you exactly what you need.

Cursh said:
Whelp. I wasn't planning on doing a tear down and rebuild, but . . .

Rode it to the corner store, and on the way (luckily about 2 blocks from my house) something popped (not a backfire pop, but a shearing metal sort of pop) and the engine stopped running and the kick lever is stiff.

May try to sell it. I don't feel like a worthy adversary for this bike. Need to get an EX500 and just ride the piss out of it.

-B

OK Yes that totally blows. But do not give up on her. Like deviant said. Maybe something simple and "fun" to fix.
Atleast open her up and find the issue. If you need a cam chain or gear. I have a couple used but good lying around here. You would be welcome to. If its a guide, sprackmoto has them cheap enough. No better time to learn what makes her go & what caused her to stop. if you sell her now...the loss you take on her will out weigh the cost of the rebuild.

I cant count how many times I was ready to set mine on fire, push her off a cliff and into a dumpster.

Grasshopper, You have come to a fork in the road. This fork, separates the builders from the hipsters.

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Good news tied to todays stupid question!

Turns out I didn't toast the engine (at least, as far as I can tell at this point.) but some arse-hat did forget to put loc-tite on the cam sprocket bolts when reinstalling them (and I bet his name was Ben.) Anyway (stupid question time) does anybody know where that little bolt ended up? How to get it out (preferably without rebuilding the engine, or turning the engine over and shaking it vigorously.) Or if I even need to get it out (I'm assuming I do, but perhaps the other end of the cam chain is wrapped around some sort of mechanical black hole that consumes all loose bits and safely sequesters them in another dimension?

Either way, I'm pulling the craigslist ad with this bike for sale as scrap metal.
 

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Been there, except mine was a tappet locking screw. If your lucky, you can see the bolt and use one of those reach claw doohickies with a magnet taped to the end. Otherwise, you're turning the motor upside down and taking the lower case off to get to it from the other side. It's not hard to do at all.
 
+ 1
this stuff makes me worry, I didnt locktite mine, but I did use the torque wrench.
No way in hell you could fish it out.
get a gasket kit on amazon...best price i found. and a tube of hondabond. drain the oil. flip it over and pull the lower case. it shouldnt be too difficult at all. and hopefully the dang bolt dont fall back down (up) into the top end, while its upsidedown.
matt (sonreir) found a cornucopia of items in the bottom case of his...like sticks, nuts/bolts and toys and stuff. His two year old dropped down in there during his rebuild!!! lol

double check now its not in the cam shaft oil baths.
 
I managed to fish out the bolt, and ordered new ones (though I suspect that my local honda dealer is just sitting on them at this point without calling me to let me know that they are in.)

Anyway. Bought some replacements at the local ACE hardware and threw some blue loc tite on them to keep them in place for the time being. Fired the bike up, rode it around the block and down the street (ran smoother and was more responsive than it has been in about 3 years). about a 4 blocks from my house it dies. . .

Today I cleaned the carbs, checked for spark, and tried to reset timing. Now timing is about 20 degrees off where it was previously set . . . wtf?! i'll pull it apart and see if there is something wrong with the cam chain again. The advancer isn't jammed (checked that first because it doesn't involve pulling the valve cover.)

The good news is I'll need to pull the valve cover anyway to put the honda spec cam sprocket bolts in. at this point I should grab some of those replacement tensioners (though the timing isn't varying at all like it was when the cam chain sprocket had detached from the cams)

Feeling pretty stumped on this one.
 
this is great news. I was starting to worry we lost ya!

look at setting up crank and cam in manual. maybe got crank and cam misaligned a couple teeth? maybe? something like that.
when replacing the guide. read both the manual and the supplement, you got from my blog. leave the adjuster bolt tight as is to start. Its springs are pretty darn stout. dont try to force new slide. get a long ass screwdriver from harbor freight...longer than guide. and use that to push the arm down when you loosen the adjuster bolt.
also, inside the top retaining cup trapping the slide in, there is a small "seat" it can easily fall out of the inverted cup...down into the engine. dont let that happen.
Its late and im tired...I will find some pics of stuff for you, first chance.
 
Thanks Eric. Wife wants her camry back (it is hers after all).

The two hondas I own don't work, so I've been dividing my time. The Element clutch is a bit beyond my experience and equipment capabilities, (as well is the financial means to outsource the job) but I'm hacking away at it. In the frustrated moments between loosing bolts that have lived through 11 Pittsburgh winters I wrench on the CB.
 
I have every confidence that anyone who has survived 11 Pittsburgh winters, is tough enough to make it through these times too. ;)
 
so - this thing sat for a year. I couldn't manage to make myself work on it. I had it running like a bat out of hell. I moved cautiously around the block and then rolled into the throttle and man did it move. The shocks were shit and needed rebuilding, but the bike moved faster than it had since I purchased it a few years ago and then it just stopped...

I looked at everything I could think of: cam chain, carbs, fuel delivery, battery charge - nothing.

On Tuesday (a year later) I was out with a cold and decided to test my aftermarket handlebar controls. everything tested out fine. While I was poking around with my multimeter though I found a blown main fuse. It is entirely possible that I could have spent the past year riding this thing, but who knows. anyway, time away from projects gave me time to recharge my gumption.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BBlp9VgkNtE/?taken-by=cursh is a video of her firing up

I had a pair of those cheap ebay clip-ons and the bolt stripped that holds the bar to the fork tube. I could rethread it, but I'm not into the idea of handlebars being a fail part so I've ordered a pair of steel ones from DCC and a set of fork seals to go with it. If I ever have any free time I'll try to finish up the seat cover and then that will be that. Not much more for me to do to her.
 
cant get this link to work properly - i think the internet is trying to be smarter than me and it isn't helping. - anyway, if you hit up my instagram (@cursh) you can see her fire right up . . . I tried to remove those steps for your, but it didn't work out
 
Whelp. Back at it again. I finally pulled the fork apart and cleaned checked one side. My springs are out of spec (18.75" vs the replacement spec of 18.8"). I'm having trouble finding replacement springs. Is this a CB360 thing (because they didn't make many?) or am I just doing a bad job of looking?

Whoever on here (I think it was PJ) suggested heating them up to pull the seals . . . you are a savior. I had a bearing puller and slide hammer from AutoZone and still couldn't get them. A little heat made all of the difference. I also did 90% of the alan bolt removal with a standard allen and a long socket for leverage. That sucked. The 6mm alan socket was clutch. Job went a lot faster after that. Before and after shot below fo a little cleaning and polishing.

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Advancer.

So the timing advancer was loose and the notch that registers the advancer to the cam has been beaten up a bit. I'm guessing this is why I wasn't having any luck setting and keeping timing.

How do I remedy this? (without spending $$. I've vowed not to throw parts at this bike until it is running: at that point I'll likely get the PAMCO ignition) I was thinking I could pack that section up with some wet JB weld, cover it with cling wrap and install it. This should dry into something that reduces the registration tolerance back to an acceptable level.

Or I could just torque the bolt down to spec and assume that it won't move much (or, said another way, I could be more proactive about registering it while bolting it down.

In other news, the wiring was being wonky as eff, so I pulled it all off, drew up a diagram (always leave yourself notes) and redid the bullet connectors (I had some semi-permanent version from McMasterCarr that were impossible to disconnect.)

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Is the little pin that locks the advancer to the cam still installed? Without it, the advancer will spin on the cam "out of time" with just the bolt holding it.
 
Thanks, Eric. I wouldn't have every discovered that if it were the problem.

That pin is in there, but the area it notches into is about twice as large as the pin itself. For now, I've bolted it snug and the bike is running great.

I set the valves (first time doing that myself) and it made a big difference.

The cam was also installed 180deg off... I was reading through the July BOTM post and saw where PJ said I could have just swapped the wires :doh: maybe next time (if there is a next time.)

Right now I'm sewing a seat cover and planning new headlighting. My 4-year-old Chinese HIDs finally blew. With the charging system working properly I'll probably just get an H4 for the time being. It's too hot in AZ to ride right now anyway (summer is the new winter).

I've been doing some research on carbs and found some Royal Enfield VM28s that look to be jetted pretty closely to what our bikes need (for a hell of a lot less than the $400 some folks want for a pair of VM32s) I'm going to pick up a pair and play around with them when I start teaching again in the fall. For now, the stock carbs seem to be fine, but I've butchered them to heck figuring how to wrench (cap holes are stripped and have through bolts and nuts on them. pain in the ass to clean or re-jet) Starting to sew a seat cover together out of the goodwill couch I skinned... feels like a bike worth working on again. It's good to be out of the cold dark hole of an ill-tuned CB360 for a few moments.
 
Pulled my Factory Tachometer apart to see if I Could squeeze a speedometer mechanism into it. So far it looks possible.

The second option is to redo the face to show speeds in gears at 5K and just get a feel for how fast I'm going by gear. My tank sprung a leak, so my bike no longer runs. I'm going to do the tank right this time and am working on some little baby things in the meantime (like a charge warning light, high beam indicator, and neutral light built into the tach.)

Thoughts on this design? Not terribly far off the original.
I picked up a 60=2000 speedo a few years back that was always a bit off (said I was going 75 when I knew I wasn't) the math is that it reads 1.12 faster than it should. This gives the range from 0 to 90 on my bike an 180deg swing. I'll have to grind down the housing a bit, but I see what's what and I don't think the speedo will miss what needs to come off. It doesn't seem structural in any way.

Anyway - this is the art for the Gauge. Everything is going to be tight. It will be interested to see how much interference I get between the dual rotating magnets. Anyone have an idea how to disrupt a magnetic field? (another magnet, right?)

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