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i'm using excel rims with avon roadrider tires. 100/90 - 18" rear, 90/90 - 18" front. theyre mounted to excel rims. i can't remember the specific type but i think they're 2.5" wide.
clearance for calipers in front is definitely something to watch closely. my setup has about 4mm to spare on each side. the biggest factor in successfully clearing the calipers is primarily the width of the hub flange itself. the spokes also will certainly need to be laced inwards.
that gsxr conversion hub looks good. i think it is the product of a prototype that was mentioned in a different thread on this board, and the guy seems to have successfully set it up - so i would say its good to go. i wish that was available back when i built up my front wheel. it would have made things simpler for me.
i cannot definitely answer whether it will work for you with your particular choice of rim/tires.. i think you'll be OK - but this will be one of those "proof is in the pudding" moments. no bones about it.
-tim
sailer said:
@timmysf
What rim/tire combo are you running?
I'm going with this hub ->http://cognitomoto.com/collections/gsxr-conversion-parts/products/gsx-r-hub-bolt-on-conversion-laced-wheel and sticking with 17" rims.
With that said, I'm thinking about 17x3.5 rim both front and rear with a 120/70/17 in the front and a 150/70/17 in the rear.
I know I'll have to off-set the sprockets but do you think fitment will be ok with the above setup?
Also did you have any issues with caliper clearance in the front? A lot of people are lacing their front wheels with all spokes facing inward to make sure they have clearance but it still makes me nervous.
i dont have a specific brand or type.. it was something i found on ebay. cost me $60 or so. try searching for headlight bracket for 52mm forks. i ordered one in the 52-54mm fork size and it ended up being too big. i had to make up a filler to get it to clamp down tight enough. you probably would want a bracket for 50-52mm range.
The guy who makes those hubs is running a 120/70/17 in the front with no reported clearance issues. Laces are all on the inside.
I'm planning on going to a 520 chain in all this. I once read that having the sprockets line up is more important than having the rear tire centered. Did you plan on offsetting the sprockets front and rear? I'm hoping to get away with a 130 tire and no offsetting of anything...
I thought I'd resolved the spark misfire issue with better grounding of the coils, but it seems to have been a red herring. I was still having trouble getting the engine tuned to run properly on the right side. I started to notice a trend that the problems would worsen over time from a cold start.
Pulling out the timing light again, I confirmed that the right side spark was deteriorating and becoming erratic as the bike warmed up. I swapped coils and the problem transferred to the left side.
The coils were bought brand new from Dynatek. I contacted their customer support and they were super-responsive and helpful. They told me to ship the coils back for testing. I shipped them back and they confirmed my findings. One of the coils was bad. I have a replacement being sent to me and should be here sometime this week.
SECONDLY. (and more interestingly). I have started to sketch out an idea for converting the analog CB350 tachometer (and mabye even the speedometer) gauge to digital.
I really like.. no I love - the green face, and the white dial needle. I don't want to change how that looks. But the weight, and space of the tachometer cable and the internals of the tachometer... I could do without all that. If I could get a digital readout of the engine speed, then I could eliminate all of this. But as I said earlier, I don't want to go with a more modern or aftermarket gauge.
Lucky for me, I have a spare tachometer gage, so I disassembled it and started looking over it and did some research on this. I think I can build a working solution using a Switec X127 digital stepper motor (commonly found behind GM vehicle dashboards), and an Arduino nano microcomputer.
I have all the parts on order.. will be posting details as I start on this project.
I started prototyping some code and have a initial working concept. I am using a potentiometer as a stand in for the engine tach input while I flesh out the code. Here's a little video of how it looks so far. The LED ring light is going to be the backlight. I experimented with some code that could change the LED backlight based on the needle position. Pretty neat!
Hey, I really like the concept! Do you think the Ardiuno can live on the bike? Can the leds be used to indicate the time to shift? Cool project, I am watching.
- once you remove the old mechanical linkage stuff, theres a ton of room inside the tachometer housing, and it will comfortably fit the arduino, stepper motor and LED ring with room to spare. I am having a friend 3D print some brackets for me to hold all those things.
- i'll be adding two more standalone LED lights for the neutral switch and turn signal flasher.
- i need to see how much additional cpu cycles i have on the arduino. i was considering having it take on management of the turn signals, brake lights and implement a hazard light/flasher. but i may just dedicate a second cpu to it. those arduino micros are pretty cheap.. $9 each. the main issue is that we have to bridge the 5V-12V between the two systems.
Hey, I really like the concept! Do you think the Ardiuno can live on the bike? Can the leds be used to indicate the time to shift? Cool project, I am watching.
the bike's 12V system should comfortably power the arduino, stepper motor and LED ring. as of right now is being run off a powered USB which is 5V and less than 1 amp. the only concern would be weather/heat/etc. but with the arduino being housed in the tach, i think it should be OK. i dont plan to have it drive any critical functions yet tho.
the LED ring lights are all individually controllable, and can display the entire RGB range, so anything is possible w/ it. you're only limited by the processing power of the arduino. i had thought about writing some code to have the lights "sweep" along w/ the needle. its doable.
That would be sweet. I think the best indicator would be something that sweeped from both the left and right side towards the center. You could have all the colors change in unison, or have each LED get progressively yellow as they converge on the center. Make the center LED bright red 100 RPM before real redline and you'd have an excellent indicator.
Giving me my own ideas...dammit...My bike's still in 100 pieces.
Tremelune - thats actually a great idea. I like that a lot. I can probably work some code to do that. But also keep in mind that the the LCD ring is going to be sitting behind the tachometer face, so the lights will be visible only indirectly around the edges. I don't think it will be visible at all during the day, and only when there is low light or at night. But still a cool effect regardless.
Also one other thing to consider.. this digital tach conversion is only possible if you have digital output from the engine. An electronic ignition is one way to get it, but AFAIK, only the Probe Engineering/Bore-Tech module provide that as a output.
The output from other electronic ignition modules such as Pamco, or Charlie's place would also be theoretically possible but they don't seem to provide that. I've asked Pete (of Pamco) a few times but he's never responded.
Another way of getting the output would be to rig your own sensor.. such as a hall effect sensor clamp on the spark wire, which would probably give the output that is needed.
Lastly, it might be possible to machine some sort of sensor pick up to insert in place of the mechanical cable, and translate those revolutions to digital output...
Ya, heat and vibration are what I was wondering about the most. Moisture could be bad also. Where do you get the micros? How are you programing it?
Crazypj was working on a electronic ignition for his cd360 I believe. He was using GM ignition modules and I think they have a pin for tach output.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.765
I guess it depends how deep into the project you want to go.
I'm using the Arduino Nano (http://arduino.cc/en/Main/arduinoBoardNano). Its very easily programmable. Plug in a USB cable and run the IDE on your computer. Code is in C format, and there are a lot of libraries you can use.
I'm expecting an electronic ignition module from Probe next week so I am covered on that end and wont need to try to DIY my own. I will be focusing on other areas like the digital tach, since Sonreir is already leading the charge for a open-source/open-platform electronic ignition which is also based on the Arduino and I don't need to overlap efforts there, although I do plan to contribute.
I would say the Nano and Mini are essentially the same except for the USB connector. The Nano is probably better for prototyping purposes, but once the design is stable and finalized, i'd probably pick up a Mini and solder that on a board along w/ the other components and package that up in the tachometer housing.
Sonreir's thread is here: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=52944.0
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