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ok...As we all know, the biggest problem of using late model sport bike rearsets on our vintage bikes is the verticle motion that the brake pedal is designed to make when it is pressed
On a Gixxer sportbike the rear master cylinder plunger is mounted vertically. The "tab" on the back of the brake pedal, that the plunger is usually mounted at the 9:00 postion on most sport bikes.
Since most of our bikes use a rear drum, the motion that is needed to pull the rear brake arm is Horizontal.
In other words, the "tab" needs to be at the 12:00 postion on the brake pedal like on the Raask or Tarozzi rearsets:
The motion created by sportbike brake levers is Vertical, EXCEPT the 2003-2005 R6 rearsets
I solved this Verticle vs. Horizontal motion problem by simply adding an "eye" rod end to a stock clevis mount that comes with the MC:
Then I simply mounted that "conversion" piece to the rear tab on the brake pedal: Now that converion piece is completely adjustable and can facilitate any position that would be optimal for the brake rod.
Then I just simply added the stock brake rod to the end. Of course the brake rod would have to be bent to fit the bike:
But now you get the horizontal pull that you need to get when you step on the brake pedal:
This set up will be going on my cb550f hopefully tonight and will be mounted on the passenger peg.
More pics coming up soon…
Great stuff Noel, love the ingenuity. Is there anything there to prevent the new eye part from rotating, where it connects to the pedal? Just wondering if it will start to rotate when pressure is applied.
Great stuff Noel, love the ingenuity. Is there anything there to prevent the new eye part from rotating, where it connects to the pedal? Just wondering if it will start to rotate when pressure is applied.
I was actually thinking on this problem as well, Noel, and thought what you just did would be perfect, but I think you will find that it will want to rotate and loosen as you use it. Ie, it will have to be checked after every ride. I think you'll have to find a more positive way to lock the eye extension to the pedal that guarantees it wont rotate. I am thinking that the use of a square section of rod that is cotter-pinned (or other way to make sure it doesn't fall out) in a square hole in place of the tightened bolt you have in there now would do the trick. I wonder how hard it would be to make a square hole?
Great work man! this is gonna be a big help when I start setting up my rear sets. I have the same ones you're using. Have you decided on how you're going to mount them to the frame yet?
If the bolt section of the eye was long enough it would push against the top of the lever and stop it from rotating. Although the down action of the foot lever will move the elbow forward it will still move upward somewhat. That may translate to a longer foot stroke to activate the rear brake. Install them and let's see what happens. Ya gotta break some eggs to make an omelette.
ya know, for all this specualtion, if you bought from ebay a brake rearset from an 03-05 R6, that would solve this problem.
The tab on the brake pedal on a R6 is positioned at 11:00 which would be good enough to make the horizontal motion needed:
yep. Im just gonna mount it to the passenger peg mount.
Im not gonna use the V-bracket at all or use frame clamps. Im us going to use a longer bolt and put it through the hole where the rear passenger peg goes.
If you get a Raask rear-set for the cb350 & cb450, thats where it is designed to mount.... WAAAYYY back there...
I'd try using some fiberglass epoxy or some other kind of epoxy adhesive to keep the tab on the foot control from rotating. Scuff all the sides where the adhesive will go before applying the epoxy. Then run the bolt through, red loctite it and tighten it up really tight. That should hold. This is one application where one of those fancy grade 8 chrome bolt might be just the ticket. I envision a snapped stainless bolt otherwise.
I'd try using some fiberglass epoxy or some other kind of epoxy adhesive to keep the tab on the foot control from rotating. Scuff all the sides where the adhesive will go before applying the epoxy. Then run the bolt through, red loctite it and tighten it up really tight. That should hold. This is one application where one of those fancy grade 8 chrome bolt might be just the ticket. I envision a snapped stainless bolt otherwise.
THanks Chris, I appreciate the suggestion. Im gonna try that.
I also have an 05 r6 brake lever and foot peg coming so Im gonna see the difference between the 2 determine which one I like better!!
why not just weld it? originally i was thinking the same thing as DR.J, but even that could still slip around. you could drill a small hole through, next to the bolt and put a cotter pin through that. have two pins means it wouldnt be able to rotate. but there probably isnt enough area for another hole, even a small one.
why not just weld it? originally i was thinking the same thing as DR.J, but even that could still slip around. you could drill a small hole through, next to the bolt and put a cotter pin through that. have two pins means it wouldnt be able to rotate. but there probably isnt enough area for another hole, even a small one.
Hey.. thats actually not a bad idea...
About the welding idea, the pedal is aluminum and I dont thing the clevis piece is alum.
I know NOTHING about welding, thats why I was trying to figure out how relocate the position of the tab w/o welding it.
But, can you weld together 2 different kinds of metals??...(sorry for the laughable noobie question.. the sad thing is, my dad used to teach welding at the local college back in the 70's)...
You could use a material called panel bond! This is what car manufacturers use to weld door hinges and other
things to vehicles. You have to get this from a store that supplies auto body paint and parts. Not princess tire
or whatever you guys call it! That is what I will use to make my cafe seat. I ordered a 74 cb550 tank and have
a 75 cb550 pan. My cousin said that's the stuff to use if you don't know how to weld. However it is hard to grind or
sand so use sparing. Goody Luck.
that's crazy. No, you cannot weld steel to aluminum--which is why I suggested you bond it. You could fabricate an aluminum clevis and have it welded to the control.
Personally, I like to use the strongest, most elegant, cheapest method (in that order) available. Fabricating a clevis doesn't sound fun...
You could convert your rear brake to a cable actuated setup like an old Suzuki T500 - I swear by them . Use the master cylinder mounting location to mount your cable vertically and attach the cable end to a clevis pinned to the pedal where that brake light switch mount is. You could scavange the clevis off the master cylinder. You end up eliminating that slave lever assembly that is mounted to your frame.
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. Use the master cylinder mounting location to mount your cable vertically and attach the cable end to a clevis pinned to the pedal where that brake light switch mount is. You could scavange the clevis off the master cylinder. You end up eliminating that slave lever assembly that is mounted to your frame.
