New honda cb 125e

grcamna5 said:
Please show some pics of the spark plug presently and after you change main jets,try to take pics showing the porcelain center electrode down inside w/ good light.

Just been on an epic enduro type 3 x 8 to 10hr days riding. I did pull the plug and got a shock - it is woefully lean. I will post photos when I can. Just thankful I've been using the valve saver stuff. And it has also decided me to go for a 112 main jet. I heard these things were lean.

Mr camna, do you have any recommendations on slow jet size?
 
urastus said:
Just been on an epic enduro type 3 x 8 to 10hr days riding. I did pull the plug and got a shock - it is woefully lean. I will post photos when I can. Just thankful I've been using the valve saver stuff. And it has also decided me to go for a 112 main jet. I heard these things were lean.

Mr camna, do you have any recommendations on slow jet size?

You should be able to richen-up the the 0-1/8 throttle response(pilot circuit) by adjusting the pilot screw/mixture screw richer;do you have access to the pilot screw? or is it still plugged? The Dynojet kits will have the drill and instructions on where/how to remove that alloy/brass plug which covers the mixture screw directly underneath that plug.The manufacturers started plugging these up(some kind of emission regulations.. ::) ) so that folks wouldn't be able to adjust the mixture to make it richer here in the States but I'm not sure if they do that where you are.. They hide the mixture screw under that little round cover plug which has a tiny hole in the center of it which can be used as a pilot hole for your drill to very carefully & slowly drill into the plug just enough to go through the other side but not too much pressure :eek: to drill into the screw underneath.You can do that first & adj. it and then see if that will be rich enough w/o replacing the pilot jet.A few pictures of your carburetor removed from the engine/bike from different angles will help me to see where that screw/plug is hidden.
Did your Jet-kit already require you to do that procedure ?

Do you have any pics of the firing zone of your sparkplug or the heat range plug number ?
 
An absence - long work hours and less daylight hours; Winter is coming:(

I haven't progressed anything except for ordering parts and researching stuff. I 've done a couple of full on off-road rides which really are beyond the scope of this bike and what I intended. Sometimes you get past the point of return and have to keep going. There is a dent in the header pipe and a broken headlight housing - pretty mild considering. I repaired the headlight track-side with duct tape and it's been like that for over a month.

The chain oiler is great - if you're into adventure riding or extended off road. I've ridden through lots of water, mud, sand and dirt - it always looks lubed. I wipe the chain clean with a rag and solvent when I get home or about to do a lengthy sealed road section. It has saved me lots of time - after cleaning I used to oil the individual links between plates and one drop on edge of roller, about 30min.

I've got a new headlight for about $36 Aus off ebay. It is h4, so I've also ordered a h4 wire assembly. The stock light on low beam isn't really enough (lots of wallabies and possums here). I want to get a h4 led which should satisfy the criteria of better light and low power consumption to suit the low alternator output.

I destroyed the screen, but another one is sitting on the garage floor. The screen really helps with speed if there is any sort of head wind or breeze.

I have a 115 main jet which I got through Honda - it is the only size they have listed other than the standard 108. I also ordered a 112 main through my favorite motorbike shop - I'll try that one first when it gets here.

We need different tyres. We both like the adventure aspect of these bikes and we have found the limits of street tyres. They were OK on dry stuff - it is mostly loose over hard and rock here, I imagine soft rubber would be the only improvement. Now that it is getting wet here the tyres we have are not OK any more.

I had a good ride of Gail's bike on a 5km section of one ride that was too technical for Gail's abilities at this point (she freaked). I'd ride one bike for about a km, then walk back and collect the other one. Gail's bike was a lot worse than mine in the slime - I suspect it is because of the smaller diameter wheels (less footprint).

We don't have the marvellous selection of tyres that you guys in the states have. I've found a knobby for gail's 110 in the correct size 90/90-14 - dunlop k860's :) I really wanted something more road oriented but there is nothing else here in the right size.

For my bike; another post because I have a question :)
 

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The tyres for my bike? I'm limited here and not a lot of info from manufacturers in general - not like high end road tyres. I'm thinking trials tyres for the soft rubber. My ideal would have been michelin citry pro - they look perfect for this bike and what it is. Road tyres with wide grooves. Although designed as an urban winter tyre they look great as an road biased adventure bike, but not available here.

I've narrowed it down to cst (cheng shin tyres :)) c186, or Kenda block trail k262, irc tr1; these are trial type tyres.
And there is a typical trail type tyre which has soft rubber according to reviews: irc gp1.

These all come in 3.50 18 and 3.00 18. I thought I would use the 3.50 on the rear and the 3.00 on the front - that seems equivalent sizing to the current 90/90 18 and 80/100 18 road tyres I have now. But...the bike has rim sizes of 1.6 front and 1.85 rear. Most of the research I've done shows off roady type tyres to use 3.00 18 for a 1.85 rim, and a 2.75 18 for a 1.6 rim. I can go 3.00 both ends (front won't be on ideal rim size) to satisfy rim criteria, although the 3.50 /3.00 combo should fit re actual tyre measurements go. The irc tr1 also have a 2.50 18 which is the only one listed for a 1.6 rim.

Any input on tyre sizes and / or brand choice would be appreciated :)

Update: there is one other option that I might be able to get: irc tr1 - another trials type tyre. They have listed 3.00 18 for 1.85 rim and 2.50 18 for a 1.6 rim.

Smaller sizes would be easier for limited power but less impact absorption (esp. on limited travel suspension) and correct profile re rim sizes. Larger tyres would generally handle the rough stuff better but profiles will be out re contact patch and corner lean etc.

Update: probably found the answer both here http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=68647.msg796571#msg796571
and here http://hondacg125.awardspace.com/tyres.htm#Tyre-Pressure

So, it's kind of looking like 3.00 front and rear. Not ideal, but no 90/90 and 80/100 in a tyre with more off roadabilities. Unless of course I go irc, which tend to be smaller, apparently.
 

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I have a similar tread pattern to those IRC GP on my CL100, on a tire branded "Duro." They're fine on packed dirt and gravel, and great on pavement. I may try a trials tire next, since I'm on dirt roads pretty much every time I go out and my driveway is very steep and rocky (4x4 pickups have trouble when it's wet). It's a toss-up. The good news is, the tires for these small bikes are cheap enough and so easy to change that there's no reason not to experiment.

I enjoyed reading about your chain oiler setup- thanks for posting that.
 
grcamna5 said:
How much time will you spend off-road ?

Hello. So far it's easily been a true 50/50; just using sealed roads to hook up to other places.

I bit the bullet and ordered the kenda k262. I've done enough research. The bike shop I like to do business with only deal with kenda out of my tyre short list (kenda, cst, irc). I had my heart set on the irc trail (not trial) tyre (last picture) - made in Japan, reputation for soft rubber. There really isn't much info on any of these. So, I'm hoping the kendas are good. They make great mtb tyres. I also went with 3.50 and 3.00. Other manufacturers show measurements of 93 - 95 for 3.50 and 77, 79 and 80 for 3.00. Kenda doesn't give any actual measurements. I don't have much width to spare on the rear because of chain guard - the current tyre is 93mm. Larger dia. should only affect gearing, speedo, power; but not a great deal and only while the knobs are tall.
 
iatethepeach said:
I have a similar tread pattern to those IRC GP on my CL100, on a tire branded "Duro." T

For a previous bike (dr 650) I researched dual sport tyres, and duro had a good name. I can recommend IRC dual sport tyres; they generally seem to have the reputation for good grip but faster wear - softer rubber. I used two gp 110's on the 650. I did go bigger than recommended because they were stupidly small - the size I got looked perfect. This time round I also read other users of IRC thought they were small for their stated size. And...still made in Japan.
 
Mr Camna, a belated spark plug photo. And, in answer to your long ago question, it is an ngk cpr8ea-9. The handbook lists this one as the non standard "for extended high speed riding".

There's also a photo of the pump we use on trips. I should have got one of it folded up - it's pretty compact. This is what we use to pump tyres up again prior to doing a sealed road run of 20km or more. I've got duct tape wrapped around the barrel - probably about a metre or two. Duct tape and nylon ties make great repairs:) There's also a yellow nozzle - I can use this as portable compressed air to blast stuff out (even dust from around the camera). I think I'll swap this for one of those steel ball inflators; just snip of the end where all the holes are in the side of the nozzle.

The last picture is Gail airing down at the start of a long (well, 30km) dirt road stint.

The other happenings: I changed the oil at 880km, before that 700km round trip. I had some pao esther 10w 40 lying around:) I swapped the chain over again. I bought a 2nd cheapo non o ring chain (like the original); so now I'm back on the original. I only bother doing this because these chains have joining links. The bike has around 2100kms now. I cruise it on 70km/h because it feels comfortable on that. Off road I find I push it harder when I sneek a look at the speedo and see I'm doing 60 in 4th climbing up a hill or something like that. I'm usually standing so there's not often I get a look. And I got the centre stand rest replaced on the exhaust pipe (the centre stand rests against this in the up position). The original was really soft thin steel and bent with the rough (for a little road bike) roads. I'm also playing more with tyre pressures - down to 22/18 for rougher stuff. I won't go less on the front - I'm able to push the tyre in a bit with fingers at this pressure.

I've also ordered some small faux leather saddle bags off ebay. I've been keeping main toolkit, spare tube and levers, sometimes other stuff as well, in a dry bag strapped to the passenger seat. After going down one of those steep hills where you can't see over the hump and strewn with rock - I couldn't get my bum way back and down and it was too steep to stop (sliding under brakes or gear). So, if you're into adventure riding keep the rear of your seat clear :) It's the first time I've felt out of control.
 

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I really like your low-tech compressed air setups. After reading your earlier posts, I'm going to dig up my air bed inflater and start using it when I'm working on the bike in the backyard. The bicycle pump I carry on the Honda is ultra-compact but requires two hands to operate. Yours looks better suited to the compressed-air trick.

The tires on my mountain bike are made by Kenda. They've held up very well despite their low cost. I wouldn't hesitate giving a set made for the motorbike a try.
 
The plug looks fine. No sign of overheating on the electrodes, tip is staying clean but we need to see down inside teh plug to see what the mixture ring looks like just to be sure.

People that read the shell will tell you it's rich. Those that expect the ti to be brown will say it's lean. Next time you are close to a shop with a dyno, have them run it and check the Air to Fuel ratio to be sure.
 
iatethepeach said:
I really like your low-tech compressed air setups. After reading your earlier posts, I'm going to dig up my air bed inflater and start using it when I'm working on the bike in the backyard. The bicycle pump I carry on the Honda is ultra-compact but requires two hands to operate. Yours looks better suited to the compressed-air trick.

The tires on my mountain bike are made by Kenda. They've held up very well despite their low cost. I wouldn't hesitate giving a set made for the motorbike a try.
)

Yes, I can operate that pump with one hand and one foot, leaving a hand free to direct flow. One of my favourite urban tyres is a small block 8 (26 x 2.3). I love them - huge volume :)
 
teazer said:
The plug looks fine. No sign of overheating on the electrodes, tip is staying clean but we need to see down inside teh plug to see what the mixture ring looks like just to be sure.

People that read the shell will tell you it's rich. Those that expect the ti to be brown will say it's lean. Next time you are close to a shop with a dyno, have them run it and check the Air to Fuel ratio to be sure.

Thanks for the feedback - I don't think I've ever seen a plug like that and was feeling guilty riding the bike. I'll stick to plan then and go the smaller step up when I fix the airbox. I wouldn't go to the expense of a dyno.
 
A late reply. It is winter here and it has rained lots; where I live has been in flood. We've been out riding a few times on good days; I haven't done much to progress the bike along. I did come up with what I think is a great design for...

Can you guess what it is?

I'll post some more when it is finished.
 

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Sorry fellas, I thought the 3 sided thing would give it away. Pannier racks! I've always thought bamboo or pvc pipe would be ideal; flexible, strong, cheap, easy to manufacture, no bent frames on a spill. The two larger diameter pipes go around the top half of the rear shocks (they're about 7mm larger diameter). There will be 3 points of contact - all using zip ties. I'm slow though and limited time. Just fitted one sleeve to one shock tonight (and sort of learning as I go along).
 
Was Googling screen for a CB125e and came across your thread so spent some time reading start to finish.

Bought one at the begining of the year, last day of the $2500 on road and been using it for work duties.

1st day riding it started stalling every time I stopped, turned out the vacuum tubing to the air injection valve was too short and kept coming off. I replaced it with a longer bit of tube.

Another time it ran out of power, blocked main jet, a bit or rubber from the fuel tube I think.


Did a few mods, 5 x10c coins under each fork cap for some preload and it's better for my road usage. Like you around 85kg.

Fumoto drain valve, so I can drain the oil quickly. 5 minute oil changes ( only 800ml of oil eh)

Top box from 3rd gear, bangs around a bit over bumps, wouldn't be any good off road. Holds my lunch for work and my helmet while I'm there though.

That IXL exhaust, Hey it's ok for road use, but agree that centre stand brackets a bit cheesey.

Got the red one with the silver sidecovers that I wasn't keen on (the sidecovers) so picked up some grey ones of a white model for 30$ and also painted the pillion brackets black.

Cut a hole in the airbox cover and removed the metal grill under the airfilter, It's only there to stop the airfilter catching fire in the event of a backfire.

Changed the front sprocket to a 17 tooth, wanted a 16 but none available. Had to file the case saver a touch for clearance. Now 4th gear is a touch lower the 5th was stock, I like the revised gearing.

All that and no real effect on top speed, does about 92-94 on the flat although I have seen 100 wind assisted. mid range power may have improved a little

Rejetted to 115 mains and it went slower, lol, dropped back to 110 (108 stock)
1 shim under the needle.

Had the tank replaced under warranty, small bubbles deleloped under the paint.

Changed the oil at 80 klm
Changed the oil and checked the valve clearances at 600 klm No adjustment necessary

Removed the air injection BS reducing weight by .25kg.

How much was the Puig screen? Maybe that will increase the top speed.

Fumoto drain valve, Had to trim the fin on the sump a litte to install.





In all her redness

 
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