XJ/FJ 600 cafe build

GoCrazy

Active Member
Hello there,

I've been reading this forum for a while now and finally decided to start my own project thread.
As my base I chose 1990 Yamaha FJ600, in Europe known as XJ 600. It's not the the 70hp version though, but I bought it for a song:

Facts about the bike:
- a runner :) requires only valve adjustment and a little carb cleaning.
- one of the exhaust manifold gaskets is dead and it causes a clicking noise
- front caliper is likely to be seized (only one)
- aftermarket 4-1 exhaust, nice sound
- and that's it :), I rode it back home.
 

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Here's some progress so far:

I stripped all the plastics and de-tabbed the frame. I also cut the rear subframe and fitted XJ 550 tank which will be used for the project.
 

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Thanks Sherm, I have also welded the rear section but didn't take pics. My next step will be epoxy seat fabrication to have the seat-tank set ready for painting.
 
I'll be watching this one. I love the idea of newer bikes being built in the "Cafe Spirit". That tank already gives the bike an interesting look.
 
rundown said:
I'll be watching this one. I love the idea of newer bikes being built in the "Cafe Spirit". That tank already gives the bike an interesting look.

+1 I'm in.
 
Christmas update time :)

I have had a few free moments between hanging the curtains and other manly stuff, so I did a small tank job. When I bought it there were some rust spots inside. Obviously, they didn't disappear after 2 months in my garage. I did some research on how to get rid of rust from the tank and here's what I did:
1. 0,5L of gasoline + a handful of nuts (counted them beforehand) and 2hrs of shaking it all. There wasn't much rust in the tank so I did not repeat the process.
2. Rust remover based on phosphorous acid. There are several products available on the market. What's worth mentioning is that there are two types I found here in Poland. The first one is sold as a concentrate - your have to pour 1L and fill the tank up with hot water.The second - you use only the rust remover. I used the second type, but I would recommend using the first one as it saves you some time and effort to spread the substance inside your tank, just fill it up with water and wait 10-20 min. Anyway, after flushing the acid you should be left with an "anti-rust" surface inside your tank or so the manufacturer of the stuff I used claims.
3. The most important part - getting rid of rust for good. I used a two part epoxy coating for gasoline tanks.
The final result looks like this:
 

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Sorry for double posting - I could not edit it and add more pics.

Apart from the tank inside job, I started with the seat. I drew a shape on a piece of cardboard and used some plywood to cut out a shape of the seat. Then I put it on my workbench and surrounded with cardboard to make a polyurethane foam mold. I used poly foam from a hardware store. As I am writing it, the foam is expanding. It' almost over the edge of the cardboard box. I think it should be ready in a day or two.
 

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I like the seat process so far. I shaped a couple of surfboards in my youth so I really like the fiberglass over foam method. If you keep the glass to 3 layers of either 4 oz. or 6 oz. the finished seat should be both stiffer and lighter than seats that use glass mat. Did you use the expanding foam in the can from the hardware store or is 2-part readily available where you are? If you used polyurethane foam for the plug, be sure you use polyester resin for the glass. Epoxy won't work.
 
Thanks BA_Dave :)

Originally, I was planning to use polyethylene foam (pink) used in house insulation, but it turned out the total cost would be higher than a ready made seat from Dime City Cycles :D
I found the expanding foam idea on RC air planes forum. One of the members used the foam to prepare complicated elements for his planes. It's cheap, one can of foam is around 5$ in a hardware store. I used 1 and a half for my project, but it's possible to use only one - it expands a lot after some time.

I am planning to cover it with 3 layers:
- small grain glass mat (5,29 oz/sqm )
- rowing mat for extra strength (10,58 oz/sqm)
- again glass mat (10,58 oz/sqm)

Some epoxy putty to smooth it out, spray can primer and masking paper + wax. Who knows, maybe I will need to re-use this mold in future.
As for epoxy type, I was told by a guy who makes custom composite items for cars that epoxy resin should be ok as long as it does not come in direct contact with the foam. In my case the foam will be separated by a masking tape + wax layer. I hope it works, it's my first attempt at glass fiber casting.
 
I managed to do some work on the seat and front suspension this weekend. I tried do the breaking calipers rebuild, but one of the pistons is seized (it didn't go out when I used a compressor). I googled the grease gun trick but I don't have such a tool at my disposal so I am left with splitting the caliper. Anyone tried that?

As for the seat, it looks as follows:
 

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If the piston is seized in the caliper, the grease gun trick works wonders. Heating the caliper body a little helps too.
 
The build is not dead 8)

I didn't spent as much time on the project as I planned, but it doesn't mean I did nothing at all.
I got my wheels powdercoated - looks like black but it's kind of very dark grey.

also, I've managed to transfer the whole project to a new location at my work :D
 

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Hey there, it's been some time since my last update. I've been busy - got married and got a new house. I managed to do some progress on my bike up to the point where I can paint the tank and seat. To cut the long story short, it looked like this before I took the tank and seat off for painting.
 

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The saet has arrived. Now I need to shorten my throttle cable and I am good to go 8)
 

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