2 Stroke World
- Thread starter kdsmf
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Hurco550 said:
Was it in the copy that the WAYBACKMACHINE archived? I couldn't get more than about two levels deep when I looked for something. Alternatively see if Mark can create a new thread with the key issues covered. We know that an Elsie top end fits on a A/C bottom end and that you need to hook up a suitable water pump and radiator.
In theory, an RZ (or probably an LC) side cover will not fit on an A/C bottom end, but almost all bar one mounting screw match and there's only a small amount of JB weld (or real weld) that needs to be added to the crankcases to make them match, but that still requires the longer LC or RZ crank and water pump and hoses to be modified.
I just fitted a TZ pump to a set of RD cases, but I'm not delleriously happy with how I did it, so V2.0 is probably coming soon. A small electric pump might be a better solution with thermo switch.
Other than that, it's pretty much plain sailing unless you go down the RZ crank and side cover route and even then it's just welding and machining. How hard can that be?
And since you raised the issue of that bike, how is it coming along? Hint: "2SW down" is not a suitable answer. LOL
teazer said:Was it in the copy that the WAYBACKMACHINE archived? I couldn't get more than about two levels deep when I looked for something. Alternatively see if Mark can create a new thread with the key issues covered. We know that an Elsie top end fits on a A/C bottom end and that you need to hook up a suitable water pump and radiator.
In theory, an RZ (or probably an LC) side cover will not fit on an A/C bottom end, but almost all bar one mounting screw match and there's only a small amount of JB weld (or real weld) that needs to be added to the crankcases to make them match, but that still requires the longer LC or RZ crank and water pump and hoses to be modified.
I just fitted a TZ pump to a set of RD cases, but I'm not delleriously happy with how I did it, so V2.0 is probably coming soon. A small electric pump might be a better solution with thermo switch.
Other than that, it's pretty much plain sailing unless you go down the RZ crank and side cover route and even then it's just welding and machining. How hard can that be?
And since you raised the issue of that bike, how is it coming along? Hint: "2SW down" is not a suitable answer. LOL
Mark posted up a few pictures of his, but never had a full write up on his.
I remember a few key things, like needing rd400 head studs and a few others but details are failing me.
I'm planning on running a bosch electric water pump and leaving the oil meter in place. I can pick up a tz pump and mod the cases, but the bosch pump omits all of that. Mark claimed no need for a thermostat at all on the setup, the pump spins whenever the engine is.
The project is back burnered. I was to the point of needing another money dump into the project for pistons, a bore and a crank refresh. I need to pull it out and get er done. I was close to the 90% done, 90% left to go mark when I put er in storage.
Heres the thread anyhow: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=70652.350
Sav0r said:
Ah. This is the key point. Without the actual site database backup files, poof, there is no site. Archive.org as Teazer noted, only goes so deep on forum sites.
Hurco550 said:
I didn't say that. You did.
RD250 and 350 studs and nuts are the same as TZ250 but TZ350 are longer studs and so are RD400. If you let me know how tall the block and head are, I can see how that compares to my list and see what works.
I was looking at pistons for a customer's A/C RD350 and found Wiseco at around $110-115 each, or for more or less the same money I could get Pro-X cast pistons which are probably better for the street. How big do you need to go to clean up the bores?
Once I dig it back out ill take you up on stud measurements. I have a notebook of notes I need to re visit as well that may answer many of my questions.teazer said:I didn't say that. You did.
RD250 and 350 studs and nuts are the same as TZ250 but TZ350 are longer studs and so are RD400. If you let me know how tall the block and head are, I can see how that compares to my list and see what works.
I was looking at pistons for a customer's A/C RD350 and found Wiseco at around $110-115 or for more or less the same money I could get Pro-X cast pistons which are probably better for the street. How big do you need to go to clean up the bores?
I only need to go first over on the bore. If I remember correctly I was right on the edge of being ok with rings and a hone with what I have used, but would rather start fresh. I was thinking I would end up running the de tabbed banshee pro x pistons, but I don't remember why I came to that conclusion
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m in sc
removing the stockness
late to the game here as i'm never on here, but: http://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php
Its up and running for a good chunk of the year. FWIW, i have 4 moderators i personally know and trust so we won't lose it again.
we have -most- of the active members back. IF you choose to register, try to avoid gmail accounts as the spam bot filter removes a lot of them.
-Mark
Its up and running for a good chunk of the year. FWIW, i have 4 moderators i personally know and trust so we won't lose it again.
we have -most- of the active members back. IF you choose to register, try to avoid gmail accounts as the spam bot filter removes a lot of them.
-Mark
NoRiders
Over 1,000 Posts
Great, I've registered and awaiting clearance.
m in sc
removing the stockness
should be good to go. BTW, regarding the archive backup, i tried everything i could but there was no way i could do it because the database migration had to be approved by the old site owner to access (was done through host gator they did NOT want to play ball), trust me, i spent many hours on the phone trying to do this. I probably lost 10,000+ posts.
