Engine rebuild quote UPDATE

Re: Engine rebuild quote

Okie Doke, I sent my piston and cylinder off to my friend who owns a bike shop in town to have measured and the verdict is that I need the cylinder honed and new rings as well.

It turns out that after the bike has sat for 40 years of its life (Or at least a good part of it since it only has 3500 miles on it) rust has reached the cylinder, hence destroying the rings over the last few years as it's finally been put to use.
But, all is fine with me now that I have located the problem, ordered rings, and have enlisted the help of my local shop.

Maybe I'm lucky, in fact I'm assuming I am, but for everyone who told me I was better off putting it in the shop in the shop and paying 600 dollars because I'd end up spending it doing it myself anyways, I'm happy I didn't because so far all I have invested in it is 60 bucks. Go me!

Anyways, i'll throw up updates as they come, and thank you to everyone who has lent advice and help along the way.
 
Re: Engine rebuild quote

Nobody said you should take it to the shop. I said that $600 was a fair price for a full rebuild. The title of the thread is Engine Rebuild Quote, and that is what I addressed.

Yes I did say it might cost you that much as well. His quote hopefully included more than just a ring and hone job, because that's the best case scenario he could've had. And followed by, if you take it in pieces, it will cost more.

Sometimes people will counterpoint just to create a discussion, instead of just agreeing with everyone else and going with the flow. Even if that's not what they would do.

Glad it is going well for you thus far. Go you, indeed. Best of luck with the assembly.
 
Re: Engine rebuild quote

We've run into a new problem..
No spark.
Guessing it's the points since thats the only electrical I've touched..

second problem.
I put in new rings and it sounds like it has even less compression now, harder to kick over.. Thoughts?
 
It will be harder to kick over. Compression should also be higher, so if it's lower, that's cause for concern.

Did you properly line up the cam gear with the crank? Have you adjusted the tappets?
 
Sonreir said:
It will be harder to kick over. Compression should also be higher, so if it's lower, that's cause for concern.

Did you properly line up the cam gear with the crank? Have you adjusted the tappets?
Click to expand...

Okay, just checking.
It's just tougher to kick over and Isnt as smooth as it was but had two thumps.
Which worried me.

As in the lines you mean for the cam gear?

And what are tappets? Forgive me.
 
Tappets are the little screws that adjust the space between the rocker arms and the valve stems. Too little clearance and you get poor compression. Too much clearance and you lose power and increase engine wear.

Did you turn everything over by hand before kicking it?
 
CaferacerMO said:
Okay, just checking.
It's just tougher to kick over and Isnt as smooth as it was but had two thumps.
Which worried me.

As in the lines you mean for the cam gear?

And what are tappets? Forgive me.
Click to expand...
what do you mean by two thumps?
 
Since it is hardest to turn over it has more compression . . run a wire from the battery to the positive side of the coils then lay the plug on the head and kick it over to see if it has spark . / check valve clearance as suggested
 
By thumps I mean whenever I kick it over how many times the engine.. Bum bums.. If you catch my drift.
I shot this video earlier to upload but opted against it, if you skip to the end you can hear me kick the motor over.



I'll hook my battery to the coils tomorrow morning and report back.
 
Update
I ran a wire from positive terminal to the positive of my coil (what I believe to be it, it isn't marked and the other one shot sparks, ha)
Still no spark whenever I hooked that up and tested.
 
if you touched the wrong end of the battery to your coil for even half a second you might have just killed your coil
 
barnett468 said:
if you touched the wrong end of the battery to your coil for even half a second you might have just killed your coil
Click to expand...

No. Not even remotely true. Please keep your advice directed toward things you understand.
 
Phew. That's a relief!
I have way too much money into this bike as it is, I can't be replacing more things!
So what now guys?
I wanna fix this spark issue and try out this new top end!
 
I'd take one thing at a time.

Are you sure the engine is ready to run? Did you double-check the cam timing and the valve clearances? The bike should be harder to kick over. If it is, then something is probably wrong.
 
Sonreir said:
No. Not even remotely true. Please keep your advice directed toward things you understand.
Click to expand...
well since i am the only one intellegent enough to suggest that he simply try to jump 12 volts to his coil to see if he gets spark i obviously know what i am talking about lol . . my comment you quoted is inaccurate in this case however because i was half asleep and thinking of something else when i posted it but i realized itt afterwards however unfortunately i am currentkly on my phone and if i try to erase something it dooesnt always work so i was going to make the correction in an hour or so when i wget to a regular computer
 
barnett468 said:
well since i am the only one intellegent enough to suggest that he simply try to jump 12 volts to his coil to see if he gets spark i obviously know what i am talking about lol . . my comment you quoted is inaccurate in this case however because i was half asleep and thinking of something else when i posted it but i realized itt afterwards however unfortunately i am currentkly on my phone and if i try to erase something it dooesnt always work so i was going to make the correction in an hour or so when i wget to a regular computer
Click to expand...

Yeah... but you're also putting the cart before the horse. Worrying about spark when his engine (potentially) isn't ready to run is kind of a waste of time.

All I'm asking is that if you're going to write something, you take a bit of time to think about it before you click the post button.
 
Valves are in spec.

As for cam timing it was a bit off whenever I pulled the top end and whenever I put it back in I put it back where it was previously.
 
How far off was it?

It's possible that the resistance you were feeling on the kicker was interference from the valve train. If it were my engine I'd pull the head again and look things over to make sure there's no damage.
 
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