CB360 w/slow crank after rebiild

sbelshe

sbelshe

Been Around the Block
Engine rebuilt on my CB360 project. While trying to test fire, I noticed the electric start only generated a really slow crank. So I tried manually kicking it to see if the cam was tight, but the kick felt normal and the bike fired.

- Battery is new, it's not even a standard bike battery, it's a bench test battery, a car battery at that.
- I jumped the solenoid and same result
- I tried multiple ground points
- I've tried 2 different starters, same issue

Any other ideas or anyone seen this before? I read a bit about the potential for quality wire issues. I'm using new 8AWG copper, I've used it on other bikes, including 360's with no issues.

Thanks
 
Might be a grounding issue, especially if you've been painting. Ensure the ground strap has a good solid metal-to-metal connection between the battery and the engine cases.
 
Thanks. I've changed the ground twice, but that's not to say it's resolved, I've chased bad grounds further than that.

I have this stripped down to nothing on the bike but the motor, solenoid, battery and starter. Is the absence of some additional component a potential problem? None that I can think of but I'm pretty much out of ideas so I'm stretching.
 
If the battery and the wiring are good, the leaves just something with the starter motor...
 
That was what I thought as well, I've tried two separate ones with the same result. Ever seen any load issues with 8AWG with thin brains as apposed to 8AWG with thick braids? I've used thin braids before with no issues, but that's the only non-stock item here aside from the battery.
 
I usually use 8 AWG for wiring of the starter motor as well. I've used 10 gauge a few times and that has worked, too.
 
It has to be the ground or I'm the one unlucky person with 2 bad starters. I guess theres a chance the solenoid is bad, but I've never seen one just run slow, I've only seen them work or not.
 
If you've bridged the solenoid (solidly) with a box wrench or similar and the starter still won't engage, then you know that's not the issue.
 
Sounds pretty unlikely that you'd have two bad starters showing the exact same symptoms. I would definitely look at the wiring.
 
I agree, and given that almost the ONLY wiring on the bike that can go pseudo wrong, it has to be ground. if any of the other connections (of which there are few) I would get no response at all.
 
Thanks, I’ll check that as well when I get a chance. Would that be an indicator of any other issue besides the battery?
 
It seemed to, seemed to have plenty of juice. It seems like it’s spinning ok, just slowly. Like it’s pulling something heavier than it’s supposed to.
 
stu.belshe said:
Thanks, I’ll check that as well when I get a chance. Would that be an indicator of any other issue besides the battery?
Click to expand...

Voltage drop will indicate an issue with either your battery or the circuit. If your battery checks out at 12.6v and you know it has proper cca, but you get more than .5v voltage drop during starting, then you most likely have an issue in your wiring.
 
irk miller said:
Voltage drop will indicate an issue with either your battery or the circuit. If your battery checks out at 12.6v and you know it has proper cca, but you get more than .5v voltage drop during starting, then you most likely have an issue in your wiring.
Click to expand...

also could be a bad battery - voltage or not - batteries sometimes lose their "umpfh" (amps) which would be evident if voltage drops too far
 
MiniatureNinja said:
also could be a bad battery - voltage or not - batteries sometimes lose their "umpfh" (amps) which would be evident if voltage drops too far
Click to expand...
That's why I said if the battery checks out. He also said in the beginning of the thread that it's a new car battery.
 
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