camshaft rotor removal 73 RD350

You know me so well my friend.

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That's also why it's good to get multiple inputs. There are lots of guys here that have successfully built nice RDs and have a lot of good advice to share.

There are also some good suppliers of parts and services around. All in all a wide deep pool of knowledge in which to dip a toe.

And when you are ready to talk about that race bike, I know a guy that supplies new OW31 (works TZ750) cylinders.......... ;-)
 
I do certainly appreciate any mathematical or engineering aspects you would like to share. I am a gearhead, my favorite books have always been how to's and manuals. When I was a child I would ask my father how all of these things work (he is an absolute gearhead) and he would tell me if I wanted to learn how something works, take it apart amd put it together the opposite way, so I did. Which likely explains why my mothers car didnt run because I took the alternator off and didnt realize the tensioner had to be fully tightened :-\. That bike is amazing btw! Wowzers! Looking forward to getting this bike together again, its exciting stuff.
 
DTW350 said:
I do certainly appreciate any mathematical or engineering aspects you would like to share. I am a gearhead, my favorite books have always been how to's and manuals. When I was a child I would ask my father how all of these things work (he is an absolute gearhead) and he would tell me if I wanted to learn how something works, take it apart amd put it together the opposite way, so I did. Which likely explains why my mothers car didnt run because I took the alternator off and didnt realize the tensioner had to be fully tightened :-\. That bike is amazing btw! Wowzers! Looking forward to getting this bike together again, its exciting stuff.
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Be careful what you wish for lol...
 
After you read the factory service manual from cover to cover, grab a copy of Gordon Jenning book which he wrote before we had PCs to do the hard work and then grab a copy of A.G.Bell's book on two strokes.

There are many web sites around the world dedicated to Yamaha 2 strokes from TZ350 to NATS to twostrokeworld.com and lots out of the UK for Air cooled and LCs (Liquid Cooled) and then there are all the headcases tuning Banshee motors with all manner of expensive parts.

That Drag race bike is just a simple 350 and will probably run RD350 top end for shakedown and then move up to a TZ750 top end. It has an RD400 transmission and Banshee clutch and will probably end up with a TDR straight cut primary drive. I'd use a TZ bottom end with dry clutch but that needs a lower first gear and kick starter and that requires a specially machined gear shaft and special side cover and that's way outside the budget.

Keep having fun
 
Will do, thanks for the info! Wasnt a fan of the stock tank so I found one from a 77 XS500, this is the shape I was seeking. Love the look of it on the bike.
 

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teazer said:
After you read the factory service manual from cover to cover, grab a copy of Gordon Jenning book which he wrote before we had PCs to do the hard work and then grab a copy of A.G.Bell's book on two strokes.

There are many web sites around the world dedicated to Yamaha 2 strokes from TZ350 to NATS to twostrokeworld.com and lots out of the UK for Air cooled and LCs (Liquid Cooled) and then there are all the headcases tuning Banshee motors with all manner of expensive parts.

That Drag race bike is just a simple 350 and will probably run RD350 top end for shakedown and then move up to a TZ750 top end. It has an RD400 transmission and Banshee clutch and will probably end up with a TDR straight cut primary drive. I'd use a TZ bottom end with dry clutch but that needs a lower first gear and kick starter and that requires a specially machined gear shaft and special side cover and that's way outside the budget.

Keep having fun
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Ummmm...do you know the specific name of that Jenning book? I just searched on amazon and there 3 used ones called the "Tuners handbook". They are selling for $530.99 used!!! Ha!
 
That's the one and it's on the web somewhere as a download. It's an old book and some people don't agree with Jennings, but he was a pioneer.

530 bucks sound about 520 too much.
 
Ok removed clutch basket and now I am at a standstill trying to remove this clutch boss and 1 1/8" nut behind the basket. Whats your best shot at removing this without a "special" tool that appears to be required?
 

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Put the clutch plates back in but not the pressure plate then use an impact wrench and a correct size metric socket to shock the nut loose.

You can make a tool out of two old steel plates plus a handle bent out of 1/4" or 5/16" steel rod and a welder
 
Ok, update, here is what I am looking at. Thoughts? Things is, everything moves very smooth and transmission gears look spotless. All of that rust residue wiped rightout
of the bottom the case ??? The other bummer thing is, i cant get my shifter rod all the way out because its bent at the end where the shifter lever ties on.
 

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I would find another shifter (I may have one to sell) and just cut the bent end off and not take any chance on messing up the case half by trying to straighten it or anything else like that. Did you happen to loosen the primary nut before you disassembled the engine? It is a whole lot easier to do with the clutch basket in where you stuff a rag or penny the lock the gears and keep the crank from turning. I usually hit the primary loose then hit the clutch nut after. Looks like a lot of rust on those inners if the crank, I wouldn't trust those big end bearings. Don't give up, mine was in just as bad shape or worse!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using DO THE TON mobile app
 
Thanks Clem, what process did you take in restoring your crank? Did you rebuild it completely? Did you simply replace it all together?
 
Normally crank rebuild means pressing apart your crank and rebuilding it with fresh bearings.Some people use RG500 bearings and other trick stuff.I will listen since I´m soon the same way down.
 
Ryan Stecken said:
Normally crank rebuild means pressing apart your crank and rebuilding it with fresh bearings.Some people use RG500 bearings and other trick stuff.I will listen since I´m soon the same way down.
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Yeah I was curious as to where he sent it to get rebuilt or if he did the work himself or just replaced the crank with a new one. Im not sure I catch your last sentence. Are you saying you are in the same spot?
 
I sent the crank out to Lyn Garland in Georgia. I don't have the pics on me now (I'm about 200 miles offshore currently) but it was crusty and came back looking like new. I have had a few missed shifts up to 12k and it's held up fine. I believe that he goes by vintagespeciatlies.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using DO THE TON mobile app
 
DTW350 said:
Yeah I was curious as to where he sent it to get rebuilt or if he did the work himself or just replaced the crank with a new one. Im not sure I catch your last sentence. Are you saying you are in the same spot?
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Sorry for my broken english.I will need to do my crank too but not this season.So I´ll listen closely :)
 
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